Multiple cracks in Rem Mod 7 stock

POA? I wonder what that is. How can any wax be water soluble? Please supply more info, such as the maker, etc.
Other than that, if the wood is truly case-hardened then nothing applied/infused afterward will help, unless the infusion fully soaks into the entire wood mass.

beag_nut said:

POA? I wonder what that is. How can any wax be water soluble? Please supply more info, such as the maker, etc.
Other than that, if the wood is truly case-hardened then nothing applied/infused afterward will help, unless the infusion fully soaks into the entire wood mass.

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I’ve never used it. I just use furniture past wax.
I had another long day, looks like tomorrow before I’m able to post more on the repairs.

Sorry about the delay, just been pretty busy the last few days.
But lets jump into this.
Here are the critical points that need to be addressed. Since I don’t have the stock in hand these points may very a little. I like to use a 7/32”or a 3/16” bit for drilling the holes. You don’t want your dowels to fit tight. You want epoxy to fill in around them. What this does is give the epoxy a 360 degree hold on the area and not just the thin area between the crack.


Here’s the right side and the left rear. The front two may need to go in from the top of the stock, unless there’s enough meat on the inside. These holes need to be drilled down past the crack a 1/4 of an inch or more. The front one should be just forward of the end of the crack. This is to stop the crack from running. The second one is basically an anchor. The one on the right rear is at an angle and will reinforce the area.
The rear left needs to be drilled at an angle going into the wrist. I would use a 7/32” bit for this area.



To add a little more reinforcement you can drill two holes from the trigger guard area into the stock. You could use a 1/4” bit and drill at an angle on both sides of the rear stock bolt hole.

let me know if I missed anything, or if I need to cover something a little more.

That’s a bunch of questions at one time
But I’ll do my best to address them.
For the crack at the bolt handle cutout. You can drill on both sides of the cutout and still hide them. There should be enough wood on the inside to drill into. The only problem is that it’s a curved area. To drill straight down you will have to start at an angle and straighten out as you drill. Here’s a couple of pics of me drilling such a hole.
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There’s also another option to reinforce the area, and that is by removing some wood and laying in some fiberglass as in this pic.


I think that the dowels would be best.

I have found it easier to hide repairs when the epoxy resin it clear.
If the dowels do show, do not stain them. The end grain will soak up the stain and become very dark. You can make cross grain wood plugs and use them to hide the repair, but let’s wait to cover that if it is needed.
Most often I drill all the holes for the dowels before I apply the epoxy. I then fill the holes with epoxy, ant some along the cracks, and then flex the cracks to get the epoxy into them.
The apply a little more epoxy in the holes and insert the dowels. Some times you will have some air in the holes, but if you wiggle the dowels as you push them in, the air will come out.
Now for the area ( left rear) where you have loose pieces. I would epoxy the area before drilling the hole. After the epoxy has cured, you can drill into the area and epoxy in a dowel for reinforcement.
Now for the crack down by the brass screw.
Drill into the stock from the top curved area, down past the crack. You could also remove some wood along the cracks on both sides of the dowel and fill with epoxy in a second step to the repair.


If I missed something, let me know

Drill two holes into the curved area from the top. There’s enough wood there. Then remove some wood from the side of the Mag well and lay in some fiberglass. This will reinforce the area and prevent future cracks.


After the repairs are done, glass bedding will reinforce the rear area.

To help hide the dowel that will show on the right side of the action, make a cross grain plug.
Here’s some pics showing one.


A Forstner bit is used to counter sink the top of the dowel.


Use a plug cutter to cut a plug from a piece of similar color walnut.


Aline the grain with the stock and epoxy in place.


Once cured, shave smooth and stain to match.

Great learning process.

Good glue, proper repairs, clamped tight, refinish.
What was "kindling" is a very shootable stock.

Have done a couple and the work is enjoyable. The satisfaction upon completion is immeasurable.

Polyeurethane

Hi end paint store should have gym floor quality.
Can't get much tougher.

I wouldn't strip it. Hand sand with 400 grit, buff with 00 steel wool, then 0000.
Brush or spray. 48hr dry time
Buff with 0000
Repeat
Repeat
Repeat

4 coats, can do more, if you want.
I put 7 on Dad's golf clubs.

If you don't want the Hi-gloss, get Satin finish or do a 5th coat and buff out shine with 0000.

Blue68f100 said:

That will work. I will have to get a plug cutter. I have some walnut laying around to choose from.

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I have a set of plug cutters, and plenty of scrap walnut. I could make a few plugs and send them to you.

Use a medium grade stripper that takes 30 minutes to remove a finish. Just don’t let it sit on the repairs.
Like @Speedy Character side, a poly finish with hold up to rough use better than most finishes. But I’m an oil finish type of guy.

You’re doing a great job.

Awesome good work. I like citrus-strip for stocks. And tru-oil for the final finish.

Oly Moly this has gotten intense! Makes my Bedding look like kindergarten!

Good luck and great success.