Lee universal depriming die

Status
Not open for further replies.
I use one when I use my Dillon case trimmer sizer. have them setup in an old Hornaday progressive, the cases get sized trimmed and decaped in 1 process. I also use on brass that has crimped primer pockets.
 
+1 on what lightman posted above and that's why I have a little Pardner Press that is set-up on an Inline Fabrication quick change plate, hanging on my wall, ready to-go at all times.

Because I may come home from the range with a bucket full of range brass and a little bit of time to do some sorting but not enough time to wash and prep .... so I'll decap in a hurry and sort in the process (usually in tupperware or gladware or baggies) and then come-back later and vibrate or tumble clean, resize, etc., then wet tumble before going into the actual reloading process.

It's just my system and it has worked-well for me for decades.

Also, I have found the Lee decapping pins to be extremely durable but, even when I occasionally snap one on a sticky primer or if a berdan primed case slips though .... the Lee pins are cheap (to keep as backups), easy to change and, as a matter of fact, I bought a few aftermarket ones made by EGW (I think it was but I'll double-check) that are practically indestructible. I almost snapped my wrist off running those pins in a Lee Universal die while blowing-and-going through a bucket of range brass when I hit a berdan primed 5.56 piece from Australia I think it was ... dang Aussies.
 
Same as above. I collect various sizes of range brass in a jar and deprive all of it at once, except 9mm. I’m saving a huge bag of that by itself. I clean brass with a pickling solution and don’t want the primers in there.
 
After I spent the money on a universal die to protect my Lee carbide sizing die from the grime on dirty cases, I read the below on pg 52 of Lee’s manual (2nd edition).

“None of the foreign matter on the brass case is hard enough to damage the carbide die.”
 
I'm with everyone else. Deprime dirty brass. Cheap replacement pins.

I also use a Lee Loadmaster, so universal die goes in 1st to help center cases from the feeder and deprime/clean flash hole. Then station 2 has the sizing die, which is also the priming station. Then powder dump in 3rd station. seater in the 4th. And Crimp in the 5th station.
 
pg 52 of Lee’s manual (2nd edition).

“None of the foreign matter on the brass case is hard enough to damage the carbide die.”

Good reference, thanks.

Range grit creates a lot of micro-scratches in a brass case. Makes it harder to see the defects that matter, like a split case mouth. I pick-up from an outdoor range where the range grit is micro-fine decomposed sandstone.

To echo LightMan above, I deprime, then (wet pin) tumble. The extra step keeps grit out of the resizing die, especially for pistol cases. However, it's just brass - you can do you.
 
Why would you use the universal depriming die and not the one that comes with die set? Thanks.
Alan

I deprime dirty brass. I do not size dirty brass.

Equally, in many dies, the decapping pin is linked to an expander ball. I do not expand case mouths in my sizing dies.

For both of these reasons, I decap with Lee universal decapping die, and not with my sizing die.
 
I don't use Lee, but I do like using a 30-06 sizing and depriming die to just deprime .310 Cadet cases without sizing or expanding because they do not need resizing before reloading, and to do so would just shorten case life... and the cases are kind of a PITA to make.
 
I often process different calibers in one setting, as I batch load. I can use my old single stage and start the process on two or three calibers. But I started using a universal depriming die because it seemed to drop much less primer debris on my new at the time turret press...
 
Why would you use the universal depriming die and not the one that comes with die set? Thanks.
Alan
I use it for those times I need to deprime a live primer. More than one time I have discovered a split neck or other case defect after the priming stage.
Also, I prefer to clean my brass before I size it as it takes the abrasive grit and junk off the case and keeps it from scratching cases and getting imbeded into the sizing surface of the die. As stated before, it is an extra step, but one with value, if you ask me.
 
If the brass is your own or if it’s indoor range pickup brass, then it is likely clean enough to run through the sizing die. You can just look at it and see if you think it’s too dirty to run through the sizing die.
If it’s straight out of your revolver, then it probably doesn’t need to be cleaned at all.
 
I use a Mighty Armory , great rig . More than a Lee , but well worth it .I own both . Pins are very tough and you can also buy them for small flash holes like Lapua has on some of their brass.

upload_2021-9-25_8-16-4.png
 
It’s pretty hard to screw up a pointy stick. Decapping dies don’t need critical machining tolerances or aerospace materials which push prices up to $75... it’s a decapping die... it’s just a pointy stick...
I wasn't clear... I do use a couple of Lee products (bullets sizers, collet bullet crimper, 41mag to 45acp shotshell) but for the Cadet I just use a (RCBS) 30-06 die in a manner similar to the universal depriming die for the ability to not overwork brass.

I do find most RCBS products superior to Lee, however.
 
One nice thing about it, is when you have crimped in primers. The resistance is so high that it is easier to size & deprime in separate operations. You can smash the pin in your size die & never feel a difference.
 
Finally remembered to check on a comment I made above about these indestructo decapping pins I buy ... they are not made by EGW, they're made by Squirrel Daddy.

They come three to a pack. I have yet to destroy the first one and it's been a few thousand rounds of 5.56 NATO .... I believe you could punch nails, punch holes in tin, all sprts of stuff with these things. And they were not expensive. 16326025196455004749131327839985.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top