Sharpening M390

I recently bought a worksharp precision adjust. It works great for me. It won't put a polished edge like you'd see on instagram, but it does better than factory. Diamond stones are where it's at. Cost like 50 bucks.

Grey,
Have you tried the stropping belts for the worksharp? That or I think they make a cardboard belt also.

You can buy the stropping kit/belts in one package.

Mk-211 said:

Grey,
Have you tried the stropping belts for the worksharp? That or I think they make a cardboard belt also.

You can buy the stropping kit/belts in one package.

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I have not. There is a youtube guy, neeves knives, that is big into sharpening. He has played with a few upgrades to teh worksharp. gritomatic makes a replacement stone holder that will take 4" diamond stones, and if you're willing to spend another $100 on top of your $50 sharpener, you can get really nice mirror polished edges. I've found that I can get a better than factory edge on d2, m4, 154cm, etc in about 10 minutes. Goes from won't slice paper to slices easily.

I bought a kershaw bareknuckle off a guy who had given it a convex edge with sandpaper and a mousepad. I'm not sure how exactly he did it, but it is scary sharp. looks funny though.

Sounds good, I'll check out that guys site.

I sharpen almost everything with a Chef's Choice 1520. Diamond wheels and one that's a fiber strop. Just works great every time. The really good knives get the old fashioned Lansky treatment.

Same as any other knife. The Lansky Diafold is a good choice for freehanders, but the guided-angle sharpening systems with diamond plates can be as affordable as you like - get a WorkSharp for $50 or a Wicked Edge kit for $3,000.

sic or diamond benchstones. different grits to start at lower if needed and move up once burr develops to higher grits. free hand and lots of practice to control angle, if ya aren't proficient yet.

spyderco sharpmaker and ceramics works fine for touchups.

those setup works for about all steels.

guided sharpening systems and devices are fine for beginners but they have limitations. if someone just wants to use a one...the wicked sharp or dmt or lansky ones arent too bad to learn with. there are others and they all work too for the most part. Id avoid or be very careful on the worksharp. id just avoid the pull through ones. I see folks butcher knives badly on those often.

a belt sander with right belts works well and quickly too. 1"x30" is an okay starter. start with higher grits belts to limit removing too much steel if you aren't versed or comfortable yet using one. best to practice on cheap old kitchen junk knives until your comfortable and understand the angles and movement to not knock tips off, etc.

Boattale said:

I sharpen almost everything with a Chef's Choice 1520. Diamond wheels and one that's a fiber strop. Just works great every time. The really good knives get the old fashioned Lansky treatment.

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Upgraded to the Ken Onion worksharp. It's even better than the Chef's Choice, especially for anything with hard steel or that is starting out dull.

hso said:

There is the standard problem of over sharpening with any powered sharpening system when folks are skilled in their use. The other problem is that the Worksharp has an issue with tip damage if you don't watch the videos and read the instructions on how to avoid it. https://www.worksharpeasy.com/?page_id=123

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The Worksharp model @SteadyD is referring to is not a powered system.

He mentioned in an earlier post it was the same as another poster’s $50 purchase.

I got the same thing as a holiday gift, the Precision Adjust model, and it’s working out well for me, too.

M390 is an extremely hard steel.

It was hard for me to believe, but these old standards, won't get modern steels sharp.







When knives were made only from 420, 1055, or 1095, (or 440B) I could create a good edge with these abrasives. And then, modernity hit! To set the bevel, I have to use coarse DMT diamond stones. I use the 8 inch versions and I of course, use the absolute most essential item I have to sharpen a knife, the Swiss Army knife magnifying lense:



If you cannot see what you are doing to the edge, you won't be sharpening the knife! With that magnifying glass I can see if I am creating one flat bevel, per side, and I can see if the edge is centered in the blade. Both of these particulars are critical to sharpening. And, I can see the burr on the edge. At some point, using a coarse diamond stone, my bevels are flat and even, the edge centered. And that is when I finish the edge with one of those traditional "soft" stones. I use them to rub the burr off. I feel for the burr, find which side of the edge it is on, and lightly use those "soft" stones, to knock the crest off, so to say. Once the edge has the same drag from both sides, I am done.

One of these days knife blades will be harder than diamond, and then sharpening them will be an impossibility. You think diamond is the hardest substance, well, times change. They will create a new cross that knife sharpeners will have to bear.