Help getting started

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Most of us reloaded for years without a chrono, then cheap ones changed that. Handy, but not really needed. Holes on paper, does it shoot well, recoil, is it excessive, ejection, is it excessive.

Does it go where you aim it, sound good, feel good, put a smile on your face? Priceless.

.38/.357 is a great way to start.
 
Sorry for the misunderstanding, the question is more what would experts recommend for a beginner with my goals.

I don't plan on doing thousands of rounds at a time, probably 200 at a time the most sometimes even less. but i would like to stockpile enough raw material for a few thousands of rounds if possible,

Not an expert, only been loading for about 3 1/2 years.

When I load on my single stage, it takes me about an hour and a half (or a bit more) to load fifty rounds. I don't get in a hurry or try to take shortcuts, and I weigh every charge. Others do it differently and load a hundred or more rounds per hour on a single stage.

As others have said above, buy at least one manual, read it until you understand it, then ask more questions. Don't get in a hurry, and don't load when under the influence or when tired, angry or upset.

I would recommend a kit to start. I bought a Hornady kit which included their reloading manual. Everything worked ok while I got started, and I upgraded things as I went based on my needs and wants. But any of the kits should get you started, but keep in mind you will have to buy dies and a shellholder or shellplate (progressive).

38/357 would be a good place to start given what you want to load for.

Supplies can be had right now, but are still a bit high compared to what they cost a couple years ago. Still cheaper than factory ammo.

Don't forget to take into account your time. It takes time to reload/handload but again don't get in a hurry.

Ask questions as often as you'd like, or need to, plenty of people here that are willing to help.

chris
 
I don't plan on doing thousands of rounds at a time, probably 200 at a time the most sometimes even less. but i would like to stockpile enough raw material for a few thousands of rounds if possible,

That really sounds like putting up a few cases of commercial ammo is a better option. Otherwise the inexpensive O frame press Lee has. I forget the name but it's about $75, not the C frame one they have that's under $50 unless all you want to do is pistol or decap on it. Of course it might be ok with rifle too but I'd want a full frame on something doing rifle brass. For your qty it might be fine? Something for others to advise. But I wouldn't even go with the turret for a couple hundred here & there, under 10k ever.
 
@wild03: You are asking all the right questions. Continue doing so.

Re: chrony. I find a chrony to be an indispensable measurement tool. My personal opinion is to spend the least amount until I know more - so I bought the Caldwell. Totally acceptable performance.

Re: powder. The manufacturers recommend, but it's really about your personal gear and what's available. The various calibers have "can't miss" formulae. I'm using Win-231 for 9mm 124gr, but Blue Dot (slow powder) works better for 147gr. Have used H-223 for 55gr and CFE-223 for 62gr for 5.56 - YMMV - it's always about what's available. I use H-4895 for .308 - it took 3 deer two years ago - pre-Covid - I hunt Northern Minnesota where it's c-c-c-cold.

Keep asking questions. THR has many with more wisdom than I. The quality of the answer depends on the quality of the question. Peace.
 
My tools are a mix of well used and new
RCBS, Lee, Redding, Lyman, CH and I
don't know what all.
It all works if I use it as it was designed.
I don't know, but I would credit my success
with the fact that I concentrate on loading
when I am loading, and I don't try to watch
television, or read a magazine, or drink
alcoholic beverages, or allow any distractions of any kind around me while
I'm in the process of any loading operation.
 
If the goal is self sufficiency, don’t let folks talk you out of reloading. All you need can be purchased less than 200 dollars. You need to learn with a single stage press and then move to a Dillion as needed. A single stage is still useful when using a Dillion or similar for odd jobs.

I load on 3 single stage presses. A lee challenger gets used infrequently. A Lyman Spartan and a lee hand press are my normal users.

I use any for brand I come across used, mostly RCBS. I do not like lee dies much. They are fidgety. However I use a couple lee perfect powder measures. The older styles.

Finding a mentor would also allow you to try tools before buying. And perhaps the use of their equipment to get the feel for reloading before you invest.
 
Thanks again for all the info.

I noticed natchez had some powder back in stock so I pulled the trigger.
Unfortunately the powder was none of the ones mentioned here but google search returned good reviews, ended up with:
HODGDON POWDER BLC2
HODGDON POWDER CFE PISTOL

The only primers available were some match pistol magnum ones for $100 for 1k. I decided to wait on that.

So bought the lee classic as planned, will start single stage and i figured it has room to grow.
-kit comes with a scale ( i have access to a lab scale good to 0.0001g or so) I will get a cheap weight set from amazon 10mg to 100g and calibrate that on a calibrated lab scale) then test my lab scale and the one from the kit.
-case conditioning tools. Includes Cutter, Lock Stud, Chamfer Tool, small and large Primer Pocket Cleaner.

bought an assortment of die sets, unfortunately the 38spl/357 was out of stock. (any ideas where i can get it?
bought some extra 4 hole turret holders.
bought 9mm bullets ( I will start with 9mm if by the time im ready I still do not have the 38/357 dies

Any recommendations on where to get bullets, powder, and primers would be appreciated. (for making holes on paper, nothing fancy)

Will buy from amazon:
-Cheap bullet puller ($12)
-Cheap calibration weights ($12)
-More manuals if necessary (I'll check marvinstuart site first)

That leaves me missing:
1- a way to clean brass, I have plans for a homemade tumbler using walnut, but if soap and water gets it done initially i'll do that for the first few goes at it.
2- A way to measure brass (trim dies? at the moment I have no idea how the trimming is done) given what i bought so far.
3- Primer pocker swagger? can this be done with inexpensive reamer?

Thanks in advance
 
You need a set of calipers. Cheap dial calipers made in China are fine. Mine are branded RCBS but are China the same as most other cheap brands.

no reason to get check weights. You have a fancy scale to use. Weigh a bullet and then check it on the other scale.

I cast my own bullets. But if I had to purchase them I’d look first at midsouthshooterssupply.com.

Cleaning cases can be accomplished with a rag and a sprits of lighter fluid or other similar. Soap and water, it just a dry rag. I use lighter fluid and a rag, dry, and a vibratory tumbler. I want a wet tumbler, but haven’t gotten around to making it yet. Cleaning depends on my mood and the application intended for the brass. The cleaning is important so you can see defects in the brass, not specifically to get it shiny.

With lee trim products, you don’t measure the length. You just trim to the preset length. Not all brass needs trimming. Example. 9mm with a taper crimp doesn’t need trimming as the taper crimp is forgiving. Using lee collet crimp dies, brass isn’t dependent on a consistent length for consistent crimp. But 38 special/357 magnum using a standard roll crimp, you should trim for consistent length so there is consistent crimp. Otherwise you have most cases okay, some heavily crimped and some with nearly none.

My 357 dies are RCBS with a normal roll crimp.


Look local for primers. Powder too. I found primers occasionally at the local academy. And kygunco had them for $80/1000. They both had powder too, as did the local gun store.
 
noticed natchez had some powder back in stock so I pulled the trigger.
Unfortunately the powder was none of the ones mentioned here but google search returned good reviews, ended up with:

In my previous post I mentioned blc2, I usually get powder from midsouth shooters supply it's generally less expensive per pound I haven't used cfe pistol yet.

the kit.
-case conditioning tools. Includes Cutter, Lock Stud, Chamfer Tool, small and large Primer Pocket Cleaner.

You already have half of what you need with the Lee system for trimming, Lee makes a trim die that is caliber specific iirc they are 13.00 per. I buy a lot of items from midsouth shooters supply from my online browsing their prices are lower. As far as bullets there are a couple companies, Missouri bullet company, rmr that offer a discount to high road members with a coupon code.

what i bought so far.
3- Primer pocker swagger? can this be done with inexpensive reamer?

I used my camphor tool to remove primer pocket crimps it is a little hard on the hand's but works, also might get a 1/2 in countersink and chuck it in a cordless drill it's a little faster.
 
Blc2 is a broad application powder for medium capacity rifle cartridges. It works into the 30-06 class for lighter projectiles.

I’m going to try it shortly in 30-30 with cast 31141. I normally use w748 or 3031. I’m not giving those up, but it’s nice to try something different.

My personal opinion is you will never regret a powder purchase.
 
Welcome to the club. I enjoy reloading as much as I enjoy shooting. The only advice I can add to all you have already received is "don't over think it" and "a little common sense goes a long way''. Best wishes and be safe
 
I’m using blc-2 in 223 currently and have used in before in 308 because I got a great deal on a few 8# jugs. I’d prefer Varget, but right now it is a unicorn or Bigfoot, there are rumors, but..... BE-86 would be a good choice for many pistol rounds if you could find some as would bullseye, hp38, win231, unique, or AA2400/H110 for top end pistol loads. Unfortunately you will be limited to what you can find and afford currently and finding it locally would be a huge plus to save on shipping and hazmat.

eBay has dies, tumblers, calipers, and everything else and deals can be found, just determine what you want to spend on each component and don’t overspend. Patience and persistence will payoff. There is also Craigslist, and sometimes buttfacebook marketplace and other online local selling sites. Word of mouth has found stuff I couldn’t get anywhere at times, from places you would have never thought to look. Estate auctions seem to be good places to score reloading gear and components as well, tho I have never tried it myself. Put wanted ads everywhere you go if they have boards up for such things, it only has to payoff once to work out.

Brass just needs to be free of dirt so you are not putting it in your dies. Clean is a relative term, some like the bling but you have to decide if it is worth the $ for shiny. Soap and water and sunlight works just fine and is what we did before tumblers came into the scene. Removing the crimp can be done with the chamfer tool or you can use a wood/metalworking chamfer tool, or even in a pinch a knife works, I prefer to swage it and not remove and metal. Both ways work, again it’s how much you want to spend and how quickly you want to get it done. Trimming brass, I don’t trim pistol or revolver brass, haven’t in 30 years. Some do for revolver to get a more consistent crimp, most don’t. There is no wrong answer, I do fine without trimming, others see the need and may actually get benefits from doing it. Rifle will need to be trimmed and there are many ways to do this depending on how much you want to spend and how quickly you want to get it done. Prices run from ~$10 per caliber to ~$500 Per caliber depending on options.
 
Thanks for the great replies.

So as far as crimp removal I'm leaning towards the Lyman reamer $10 on amazon. Comments mention that the handle can be removed, I'm thinking I can put it on the mini lathe at slow speed and it will do short work of any crimp , I'm guessing I only need the small reamer, since the only other rifle caliber i have is 308 and the 7.62 PPU ammo i have doesn't seem to have a crimp. Also theres the issue that the rem 788 i have doesn't like the PPU ammo, every other round gets stock and i have to tap it out with a cleaning rod. I might try reloading a handful of this brass, and try it, but if it still has issues I will have to procure 308 brass.

It is good to hear that handgun brass does not need trimming. so I would just need a way to trim 5.56 and 7.62, Please let me know any suggestion on the cheap side.
 
Thanks for the great replies.

So as far as crimp removal I'm leaning towards the Lyman reamer $10 on amazon. Comments mention that the handle can be removed, I'm thinking I can put it on the mini lathe at slow speed and it will do short work of any crimp , I'm guessing I only need the small reamer, since the only other rifle caliber i have is 308 and the 7.62 PPU ammo i have doesn't seem to have a crimp. Also theres the issue that the rem 788 i have doesn't like the PPU ammo, every other round gets stock and i have to tap it out with a cleaning rod. I might try reloading a handful of this brass, and try it, but if it still has issues I will have to procure 308 brass.

It is good to hear that handgun brass does not need trimming. so I would just need a way to trim 5.56 and 7.62, Please let me know any suggestion on the cheap side.
Probably the cheapest way to trim cases with what you have is the Lee case length gauge and shell holder. https://leeprecision.com/gage-holder-223-rem.html You will need one for each caliber you want to trim, and they are fairly cheap, but work well. Your kit should have the cutter to work with these trim gauges.
 
I saw where someone recomended a bullet puller. I don't think anyone said anything about a "stuck case" kit. Sooner or later everyone gets a case stuck in the resizing/decapping die. You can buy it as a "kit" or put it together by pieces.
 
I use a LCT press and it works beautifully. About any reasonably intelligent person will grasp quickly. It can be used as a single stage or as an auto-indexing turret. The kit may include some items which you don't need, and might not have some that you do need. I think that the 4-die sets have the Factory Crimp Die, which is not 'necessary' but some people like to use (other people, don't care for it), so you might want to choose the 3 die set instead.
Now, as for getting started and figuring out what equipment that you need, start in the sticky at the top of this forum category, Reloader Library of Wisdom and especially this thread; https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ding-equipment-basics-read-this-first.238214/
There are several other threads in there you will want to read as well. Read and study all the basics you can before you load and shoot a live round.
Lastly, this is a great forum of knowledgeable people, willing to share all they know (and sometimes more than they know)... a virtual menagerie of mentors.
 
The cheap Lyman Reamer will cut 223 primer crimps very well.

I can confirm that, the tool arrived today and I tried it with crimped 5.56 case. Worked like a charm, two to three turns and there was no lip I could feel. I should have checked if there was a lip prior, I wonder how much of the crimp is removed by the primer on its way out. to removed the primer i used a nail that i turned the tip on the lathe to fit the flash hole and a bench vise. the reamer tip is removable and can be attached to a drill, i will try it on the lather if i ever have lots of brass to process.

Probably the cheapest way to trim cases with what you have is the Lee case length gauge and shell holder. https://leeprecision.com/gage-holder-223-rem.html You will need one for each caliber you want to trim, and they are fairly cheap, but work well. Your kit should have the cutter to work with these trim gauges.

I ordered the dies for 223 and 308 and also a lee cutter with a handle, something deluxe cutter, it was $20 so I figured it will do.

In my previous post I mentioned blc2, I usually get powder from midsouth shooters supply it's generally less expensive per pound I haven't used cfe pistol yet.
I used my camphor tool to remove primer pocket crimps it is a little hard on the hand's but works, also might get a 1/2 in countersink and chuck it in a cordless drill it's a little faster.

did you mean chamfer tool? looking at the lyman reamer I can see how a a chamfer tool will work,
 
There has been several reports of ppu being hot loaded and sticking cases or bolts with 308.
 
Speaking of 308 brass; When I started out shooting 308 I did a few things right and 1 thing very wrong so maybe someone can glean from my experience. Done right, I bought 100 rounds of federal gold medal match ammo and enjoyed shooting it so there was that batch. Also nice was a batch of new looking Hornady that i picked from the range garbage, boxes and all. I also bought 100 rounds of lapua brass, weighed them all, kept half and sold half. My screw-up was to buy 100 once-fired federal gold medal match cases from a gun show vender. When i sorted them I figured out they were from 3 or 4 different machine-guns. I salvaged 40 pieces, shot them once and gave them away, I had a lot of fun with sub moa 100-yard on paper, chasing that 1/2" group. Shot a lot of 500 yard steel. Consistently shot 1 moa groups at 1000 yards. Most all my loads were with 175g sierra match king and Varget.
 
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