First time purchase of a Winchester 1897 shotgun

Status
Not open for further replies.
Conanred

Conanred

Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
14
Location
South Alabama
Afternoon to all. First time in years to be back on the high road. I'm looking at a Winchester 1897 in 16 ga. Field grade At a local pawnshop. It's a 1947 manufacturer date with conservatively 60% original blueing left on metal. Light handling Mark's (scratching no gouges) on steel. Wood is sound with only light scuff Mark's and no gouges. Wood Finnish is almost gone. Have not see inside bore. Functions as should and is tight in lock up. Shop also has another 97 in 12 gage that has totally turned silver brown patina but otherwise good working condition. In looking at the 16 gage as it in better condition. Shop is asking $500.00 for each gun. Internet price at gunbroker , gunsamerica and guns international average price right now is 700 to 800. Depending on bore condition is this a decent price or should I wait to find a better copy at agunshow or else where? Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks.
 
The following is a list from several places, but much of it came from Marauder. Things to look for in buying a ‘97 to minimize unplanned expenses or unsafe surprises.



First: Make sure that the "FLAG" on the shell lifter is working correctly. It should rise before the shell does. If not, seek proper repairs.

Second: Be sure that the slide release is working correctly! The slide should NOT open if the firing sequence is not completed unless the slide release is activated. (many amateur gunsmiths defeat the slide release! BAD JUJU!!) The slide/bolt should remain locked in battery until the hammer drops, the safety mechanism perceives recoil, or the slide release is activated.

Third: Be sure that the hammer does NOT follow the bolt when the trigger is held. Just like the Marlin, slowly close the bolt with the trigger depressed to a point just short of closed battery. The hammer should remain cocked and the firing pin should be blocked anywhere short of "In Battery".

Fourth: Be sure that the firing pin retracts fully when the bolt is open.

Fifth, does half-cock work? Can you get it off half cock without dropping the hammer?
 
Thank you that's something I'll check. I never had one or operated one before. I still don't know money wise if $500 is good or bad price? If someone knows tell me. Watched a video on YouTube by a smith warning not to slam fire 97s due to wear coursing out of battery discharge. The bolt was almost blown back through the receiver.
 
I read all the time people buying these and cutting the barrel off. Shame to see them messed up. Bouth shotguns been sitting for over a year but proprietor wont move on the price. I got a nice winchester 94 from them back in January that was less than going price. Deals are nowhere to be found 5hese days. I'm going back payday and look it over good. I'll check the list to see if all is working.
 
I wouldn't worry much as there is going to be many opinions on the guns worth. If you like and want the gun just buy it. Whether you tell anyone what you paid is up to you.
If you decide to make the purchase I hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of it.
Good luck
 
Conanred said:
Afternoon to all. First time in years to be back on the high road. I'm looking at a Winchester 1897 in 16 ga. Field grade At a local pawnshop. It's a 1947 manufacturer date with conservatively 60% original blueing left on metal. Light handling Mark's (scratching no gouges) on steel. Wood is sound with only light scuff Mark's and no gouges. Wood Finnish is almost gone. Have not see inside bore. Functions as should and is tight in lock up. Shop also has another 97 in 12 gage that has totally turned silver brown patina but otherwise good working condition. In looking at the 16 gage as it in better condition. Shop is asking $500.00 for each gun. Internet price at gunbroker , gunsamerica and guns international average price right now is 700 to 800. Depending on bore condition is this a decent price or should I wait to find a better copy at agunshow or else where? Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...

If you don't buy the 16, will you PM with it's location? I've wanted one for years. My Dad had one and sold it to my cousin, he kept trying to buy it back, offered double & triple the amount-no sale.
$500 for the 16 is a good price. Not as good a deal for the 12, but not overly high either.
 
i have a very good 1897 in 12 ga. and i am on the hunt for a 16 ga, but have not found one yet.
 
I saw a 97 in a gun shop a while back, these guys flip a good few shotguns and prices are usually in line. It had a good bit of finish wear and the wood was a lil rough but seemed to be in good overall working condition. Price was $795. Can't remember if it was 12 or 16. I almost think it was a 16.
 
Well looking at the ones Drobs posted that closed on gunbroker, some sold in 80% _90 finnish for around $550-$670. I might take a longer as the one in store is rough at %60 to %70.
 
My problem is, I have one with a cut-off barrel, and I want to restore it. (So the story goes, my grandfather once loaned it to someone who nosed it into the mud, fired it, and petaled the barrel, so he sawed it off. Who knows.) a 12 ga barrel isn't too rare or difficult. They still make them in China. But no one makes the 16s anymore. I have spent the last ten or so years stopping in every pawn shop between Utah and Texas hoping to find one in iffy condition, so I won't feel bad, cannibalizing it to restore my grandpa's duck gun, but no luck so far. I will likely have one custom made.
 
mljdeckard said:
My problem is, I have one with a cut-off barrel, and I want to restore it. (So the story goes, my grandfather once loaned it to someone who nosed it into the mud, fired it, and petaled the barrel, so he sawed it off. Who knows.) a 12 ga barrel isn't too rare or difficult. They still make them in China. But no one makes the 16s anymore. I have spent the last ten or so years stopping in every pawn shop between Utah and Texas hoping to find one in iffy condition, so I won't feel bad, cannibalizing it to restore my grandpa's duck gun, but no luck so far. I will likely have one custom made.
Click to expand...

Is yours a 12 or 16?
If 12, what is the length of the barrel?
I might be interested in trading a full length barrel for a shorter barrel.
 
I passed on a pristine Winchester 1897 for $50 because the rifling was completely shot out! :eek:

Sorry... I'll stop now.

I do plan on selling my Norinco (IAC?) 1897 replica on Gunbroker because I never shoot the thing and Gunbroker used prices are over double what I paid new.
 
Scribner said:
The following is a list from several places, but much of it came from Marauder. Things to look for in buying a ‘97 to minimize unplanned expenses or unsafe surprises.



First: Make sure that the "FLAG" on the shell lifter is working correctly. It should rise before the shell does. If not, seek proper repairs.

Second: Be sure that the slide release is working correctly! The slide should NOT open if the firing sequence is not completed unless the slide release is activated. (many amateur gunsmiths defeat the slide release! BAD JUJU!!) The slide/bolt should remain locked in battery until the hammer drops, the safety mechanism perceives recoil, or the slide release is activated.

Third: Be sure that the hammer does NOT follow the bolt when the trigger is held. Just like the Marlin, slowly close the bolt with the trigger depressed to a point just short of closed battery. The hammer should remain cocked and the firing pin should be blocked anywhere short of "In Battery".

Fourth: Be sure that the firing pin retracts fully when the bolt is open.

Fifth, does half-cock work? Can you get it off half cock without dropping the hammer?
Click to expand...
 
Scribner, I also have a 1947 take down. Your info was extremely helpful. My 1897 functions as you described, however it will not go into battery with an empty or live shell. I suspect that I have a right extractor problem. It functions well without a shell. Fortunately I am familiar with taking it all apart short of the trigger assembly. There is no "play" in the bolt. Is it possible to have damage to the "breech ring" between the bolt face and the barrel that would cause the shell not to go into battery? Thanks. Skidsteer1.
 
You want to make sure the hammer doesn't follow the bolt when the trigger isn't held. Since the 97 does not have a disconnector, it should follow the bolt when the trigger is held. (this is actually part of the function test.) If the hammer follows when the trigger isn't held, you will probably end up replacing the hammer/sear/sear spring. (One two or all three.)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

L
  • Locked
Winchester 1897 question
Replies
4
Views
1K
kudu
kudu
O
  • Locked
Model 1897 or Model 12?
Replies
8
Views
650
loose noose
loose noose
D
  • Locked
Winchester 1897
Replies
12
Views
1K
ruddy
R
J
  • Locked
winchester 1897
Replies
1
Views
306
content
C
M
  • Locked
Help with price of Browning A5 20ga.....
Replies
7
Views
813
COK
C
Back
Top