Gun owner again after 25 years, appreciate some advice

Status
Not open for further replies.
SenseiDrop

SenseiDrop

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2021
Messages
25
Hi All,

Used to shoot guns in my teens and twenties, then something happened to my gun, and i hadn't had another one since. ( over 20 years ago ).

Just bought a Beretta 92fs and I want to treat it well, and would like some advice.

Question:
1. I hear i should buy only brass rounds so they don't scratch the chamber ( no clue ).
2. For practice should i shoot with a higher grain say 124 opposed to 115 i hear the 124 is better to shoot. -say (Winchester white box, or cci blazer brass ) ?
3. I see on some videos people using grease on the slides instead of oil, does it actually matter?

Again, i'm sorry to bother, but i wanted to ask experienced gun owners how i should take care of my new gun.

Also: Best self defense ammo: I hear this is one of the best: • Speer Gold Dot G2 9MM Luger

thanks so much for any feedback !
 
SenseiDrop said:
Just bought a Beretta 92fs and I want to treat it well, and would like some advice.

Question:
1. I hear i should buy only brass rounds so they don't scratch the chamber ( no clue ).
!
Click to expand...
I prefer brass, but you can probably use steel or aluminum cased ammo without any problems.

2. For practice should i shoot with a higher grain say 124 opposed to 115 i hear the 124 is better to shoot. -say (Winchester white box, or cci blazer brass ) ?
Click to expand...
The Beretta 92FS is really only a 9mm shooter, so 115gr is probably fine. The issue with using more robust ammo is for some guns that try and do two things, 9mm and .40 S&W, like the Glock 17/22 (basically the same gun), HK USP (originally designed to shoot .40 S&W), that are either over sprung (an issue with new guns with new recoil springs only) or have a heavier slide designed for .40 S&W. However, in the world of 9mm ammo, the weakest stuff is typically 115gr ball training ammo. If you have trouble driving the slide, which would affect cycling of the gun, 115gr ball would typically be the ammo that would cause it.

3. I see on some videos people using grease on the slides instead of oil, does it actually matter?
Click to expand...
Either is fine. I generally like to stay within the same family, such as SLIP 2000 oil and grease, or Weapon Shield oil and grease, or whatever your favorite brand. Using lubrication is more important than the kind of lubrication.

I usually use oil. It is easier to add more, and it is easier to clean off. Though I have used grease without any problems.

Here is a SIG from Gray Guns with grease https://grayguns.com/lubrication-of-sig-sauer-pistol-rails/

Here is SIG Academy with oil



Also: Best self defense ammo: I hear this is one of the best: • Speer Gold Dot G2 9MM Luger
Click to expand...
In this market, whatever hollow point ammo you can find is probably the right choice.
 
Welcome to the forum and welcome back into the shooting arts!

The Beretta 92 is a fine pistol. You should suffer no adverse effects from shooting steel or aluminum cased ammunition from it.

115gr full metal jacketed (FMJ) ammunition is considered standard practice ammo in 9mm. Heavier bullet types are usually reserved for self defense and will be considerably more expensive.

Is this a brand new pistol? If so, follow Berettas recommendation for lubricants which should be in the owners manual- pretty sure they will send you one for free if you dont have one. Generally speaking, grease is favored for steel-to-aluminum contact such as the M92 slide rails. I like a THIN coating of Mobil Red Synthetic bearing grease on mine.

If this is an older 92, check to see if it has the latest version of the locking block installed. There are many pics and videos on YouTube showing the differences between the new and older blocks. These are wear items and the earlier versions were known for cracking prematurely.
 
Last edited:
I know you only solicited answers to your specific questions, but since you framed it in the context of a person returning to gun ownership with little experience, I will offer some unsolicited advice. I am sure more will follow and a lot of it will be good. I'll just get it started:

1. Besides the slide lube of your choice, you'll want a gun cleaner and tools. There is a variety of cleaners out there and while they all work, the ones best suited for your use may depend on the type of ammo and powder (propellant) used. Some ammo produces more carbon fouling and some produces more copper fouling and various solvents are better or worse for each. For tools, I suggest a short pistol cleaning rod. I like one-piece Dewey rods because they're inexpensive and I can buy one for each tool (patch holder, jag, brush, etc) and not have to change the tool tips. You can also use a "bore snake" which work quite well indeed except in the case of bore obstructions.

2. Find a holster that works for you and get it. Make sure your first holster is not a cross-draw or appendix carry simply for the sake of being accepted at training classes and on the firing line at the range.

3. Sign up for training. A day on the weekend for some local training is a good start. You will be well-advised to attend a multi-day training academy when you can. ITTS, Thunder Ranch, Sig Academy, Rogers, Gunsite... something like that. If you indicate what state you live in, you can get advice about where to go. It can costs hundreds to thousands and some people get hung up on that but it's ill-advised to be cheap about training. Your skill is critically important to your results in whatever endeavor you have. Don't put it off until you get better or deeper into it. Give yourself a good start.
 
JTQ said:
I prefer brass, but you can probably use steel or aluminum cased ammo without any problems.


The Beretta 92FS is really only a 9mm shooter, so 115gr is probably fine. The issue with using more robust ammo is for some guns that try and do two things, 9mm and .40 S&W, like the Glock 17/22 (basically the same gun), HK USP (originally designed to shoot .40 S&W), that are either over sprung (an issue with new guns with new recoil springs only) or have a heavier slide designed for .40 S&W. However, in the world of 9mm ammo, the weakest stuff is typically 115gr ball training ammo. If you have trouble driving the slide, which would affect cycling of the gun, 115gr ball would typically be the ammo that would cause it.


Either is fine. I generally like to stay within the same family, such as SLIP 2000 oil and grease, or Weapon Shield oil and grease, or whatever your favorite brand. Using lubrication is more important than the kind of lubrication.

I usually use oil. It is easier to add more, and it is easier to clean off. Though I have used grease without any problems.

Here is a SIG from Gray Guns with grease https://grayguns.com/lubrication-of-sig-sauer-pistol-rails/

Here is SIG Academy with oil




In this market, whatever hollow point ammo you can find is probably the right choice.
Click to expand...



thanks so much for your feedback, appreciate your input.
 
NIGHTLORD40K said:
Welcome to the forum and welcome back into the shooting arts!

The Beretta 92 is a fine pistol. You should suffer no adverse effects from shooting steel or aluminum cased ammunition from it.

115gr full metal jacketed (FMJ) ammunition is considered standard practice ammo in 9mm. Heavier bullet types are usually reserved for self defense and will be considerably more expensive.

Is this a brand new pistol? If so, follow Berettas recommendation for lubricants which should be in the owners manual- pretty sure they will send you one for free if you dont have one. Generally speaking, grease is favored for steel-to-aluminum contact such as the M93 slide rails. I like a THIN coating of Mobil Red Synthetic bearing grease on mine.

If this is an older 92, check to see if it has the latest version of the locking block installed. There are many pics and videos on YouTube showing the differences between the new and older blocks. These are wear items and the earlier versions were known for cracking prematurely.
Click to expand...

This is a brand new 92fs made in the u.s.a. so much appreciative of your reply
 
westernrover said:
I know you only solicited answers to your specific questions, but since you framed it in the context of a person returning to gun ownership with little experience, I will offer some unsolicited advice. I am sure more will follow and a lot of it will be good. I'll just get it started:

1. Besides the slide lube of your choice, you'll want a gun cleaner and tools. There is a variety of cleaners out there and while they all work, the ones best suited for your use may depend on the type of ammo and powder (propellant) used. Some ammo produces more carbon fouling and some produces more copper fouling and various solvents are better or worse for each. For tools, I suggest a short pistol cleaning rod. I like one-piece Dewey rods because they're inexpensive and I can buy one for each tool (patch holder, jag, brush, etc) and not have to change the tool tips. You can also use a "bore snake" which work quite well indeed except in the case of bore obstructions.

2. Find a holster that works for you and get it. Make sure your first holster is not a cross-draw or appendix carry simply for the sake of being accepted at training classes and on the firing line at the range.

3. Sign up for training. A day on the weekend for some local training is a good start. You will be well-advised to attend a multi-day training academy when you can. ITTS, Thunder Ranch, Sig Academy, Rogers, Gunsite... something like that. If you indicate what state you live in, you can get advice about where to go. It can costs hundreds to thousands and some people get hung up on that but it's ill-advised to be cheap about training. Your skill is critically important to your results in whatever endeavor you have. Don't put it off until you get better or deeper into it. Give yourself a good start.
Click to expand...


westernrover
thanks so much for your advice, my gun won't be carried, just keep it in the house. but you've helped me alot thanks!
 
I have shot some steel case with no ill effect. I would say a steady diet of steel would wear a gun faster than brass because brass is softer. I have no data to support that opinion.

I reload and of the different weights 124 gr shoots best for me. Different guns like different bullets.

I reload Gold Dots and like them. Thankfully I haven't had to test the self defense part of them. They are accurate and really tear some stuff up at home at my outdoor range.

My opinion on grease vs oil came from what I learned a hundred years ago:

A mix of dirt and grease on the running surfaces of a gun is more of a lapping compound than a lubricant.
A mix of oil and dirt on the running surfaces of a gun is just that. A mix of dirt and oil.

Oil tends to flush things and grease does not. Again no supporting data. It's just why I do some things the way I do.
 
I reload my ammo so I have only shot brass cases. For practice I shoot 115gr rn because they are the cheapest. For self defence ammo I reload with Gold Dots. I use tetra lube grease because I find it to be less messy than oil. On my blued guns I use oil. I have had my 92 INOX for about 30 years now. It pretty much shoots anything.
 
Good choice!

I've had a Brazilian clone of the 92 forever. It eats every kind of brass or aluminum practice ammo, no problem. I'm not sure that it's ever even malfunctioned. If so, it was an isolated event that I've forgotten about.

After I shoot it, I clean it with a little bit of Hoppes #9 and plenty of patches. Then I lube the rails with a bit of light gun oil.

I don't know how many thousands of rounds I've shot through it since I bought it NiB in 1989-90. It was my nicest service pistol for many years when I was young and poor.

I also have a Beretta 96 in 40 caliber that I treat the same way. It's a Frankengun made of a surplus frame with a (very) non-matching surplus barrel and slide. It has also been flawless. Its trigger is better than the Taurus.

I would be very satisfied with either one for HD, and they are also good shooters at the range.

TaurusPT99

TaurusPT99


View media item 1867
 
Last edited:
frogfurr said:
I have shot some steel case with no ill effect. I would say a steady diet of steel would wear a gun faster than brass because brass is softer. I have no data to support that opinion.

I reload and of the different weights 124 gr shoots best for me. Different guns like different bullets.

I reload Gold Dots and like them. Thankfully I haven't had to test the self defense part of them. They are accurate and really tear some stuff up at home at my outdoor range.

My opinion on grease vs oil came from what I learned a hundred years ago:

A mix of dirt and grease on the running surfaces of a gun is more of a lapping compound than a lubricant.
A mix of oil and dirt on the running surfaces of a gun is just that. A mix of dirt and oil.

Oil tends to flush things and grease does not. Again no supporting data. It's just why I do some things the way I do.
Click to expand...

Thanks, i will probably follow that advice, i don't remember ever using grease to clean my Browning Hi-Power back in the day.!!!
 
Tallball said:
Good choice!

I've had a Brazilian clone of the 92 forever. It eats every kind of brass or aluminum practice ammo, no problem. I'm not sure that it's ever even malfunctioned. If so, it was an isolated event that I've forgotten about.

After I shoot it, I clean it with a little bit of Hoppes #9 and plenty of patches. Then I lube the rails with a bit of light gun oil.

I don't know how many thousands of rounds I've shot through it since I bought it NiB in 1989-90. It was my nicest service pistol for many years when I was young and poor.

I also have a Beretta 96 in 40 caliber that I treat the same way. It's a Frankengun made of a surplus frame with a (very) non-matching surplus barrel and slide. It has also been flawless. Its trigger is better than the Taurus.

I would be very satisfied with either one for HD, and they are also good shooters at the range.

TaurusPT99

TaurusPT99


View media item 1867
Click to expand...

Appreciate the pics and your reply Tallball, thanks!
 
1. Brass cased ammo is more reliable, cleaner, and easier on your extractor. Al and steel cases are fine for Glocks, but pistols with harder to replace extractors....I prefer brass. Blazer brass is a good choice.


2. Doesnt matter. But be sure to also practice a little with your carry JHP ammo. Itll be hotter and may aim different.


3. I mix ATF and STP equally. Use that for thin lube. Add red grease until its ketchup thick, for thick lube. Has never failed, thickened, or spotted a finish. Use break free clp in the barrel, and to clean up.

I have no idea why the grease haters still haven't figured out that you can thin grease so that it flows well, clearing dirt away.

Speer and Federal make good jhp. Win pdx1 is fine as well.
 
Last edited:
SenseiDrop said:
1. I hear i should buy only brass rounds so they don't scratch the chamber ( no clue ).
Click to expand...

Internet lore parrotted by people with no critical thinking skills. You really think the chamber isn't made of tougher stuff than the steel cases?

SenseiDrop said:
2. For practice should i shoot with a higher grain say 124 opposed to 115 i hear the 124 is better to shoot. -say (Winchester white box, or cci blazer brass ) ?
Click to expand...

Sez who? More internet hooey.

SenseiDrop said:
3. I see on some videos people using grease on the slides instead of oil, does it actually matter?
Click to expand...
It's not an engine, transmission or wheel bearing. A firearm is not subjected to anywhere near the same kind of stresses.
SenseiDrop said:
Also: Best self defense ammo: I hear this is one of the best: • Speer Gold Dot G2 9MM Luger
Click to expand...

Very good stuff. Again, don't overthink it. Any premium, modern HP design that passes the FBI tests will suffice.
 
Zerodefect said:
1. Brass cased ammo is more reliable, cleaner, and easier on your extractor. Al and steel cases are fine for Glocks, but pistols with harder to replace extractors....I prefer brass. Blazer brass is a good choice.


2. Doesnt matter. But be sure to also practice a little with your carry JHP ammo. Itll be hotter and may aim different.


3. I mix ATF and STP equally. Use that for thin lube. Add red grease until its ketchup thick, for thick lube. Has never failed, thickened, or spotted a finish. Use break free clp in the barrel, and to clean up.

I have no idea why the grease haters still haven't figured out that you can thin grease so that it flows well, clearing dirt away.

Speer and Federal make good jhp. Win pdx1 is fine as well.
Click to expand...


Thanks for your reply Zerodefect, I picked up my gun today after the 5 day waiting period and shot 50 rounds thru it. I had only 1 bullet get outside the sillhouette, all centered for most part, but was a little low trying to put some headshots. But that will come with more practice.
And i ended up getting the " Hornady Critical Duty " ammo that was at the shop for home defense ammo.
Thanks again for everyone's help , much appreciated!!
 
Welcome to THR and congrats on your recent acquisition. The 92 is a classic, well made pistol.

Your 92 should run with steel or brass cased ammo. I’ve only used brass in mine, but steel works. 115 gr would run fine, as would 124 and probably 147.

Ive always lubed mine with oil. It’s worked well enough for me. But I suppose grease would be alright too.

I like Federal HST in 124 grain for defense loads. But really Hydra Shock, Winchester Rangers, Golden Sabres, or Gold Dots would be fine too.

Beretta and Mec Gar make 17 round, flush fitting mags for the 92. Always good to stock up on some extras if those are available in your state.

Buy more ammo than you think you’ll need. Seems like supply can be inconsistent in both price and availability these past couple years.

Be safe and have fun!
 
1) Brass is certainly better but the Beretta 92 has a heavy chromed chamber and barrel. It can shoot everything.

2) The sights of the Beretta 92 are set for the combat hold with 124 grains ammunition at NATO standard. This means that it is better to fire 124 grains cartridges and higher because they usually tend to hit exactly with the combat hold or slightly higher in the case of heavier bullets. Usually light bullet ammunition tends to hit lower.

3) Gun oils are better than grease in my opinion. The problem is that the gun oils that are normally found on the market tend to evaporate easily so after a few months of storage it is easy to find that the gun is almost dry. In fact, personally, before shooting one of my guns that I haven't used for a long time, I do the field strip and lubricate it. The manufacturer of fine Italian shotguns Cosmi recommends using SAE30 or SAE40 motor oil, unfortunately I don't remember exactly; motor oils persist much much longer than regular gun oils. I have been told that another great gun lube is 2T motorcycle blending oil.
 
It's easy to decide on the best gun oil. If my gun is still wet after a couple of hundred rounds that's the oil I buy. How long the gun stays wet is the best test.

Another thought on oil vs grease. I shoot semi auto 9mm and 45acp and sometimes have range sessions of 400-500 rounds. Even with a good oil the gun will start to run dry after these many rounds. So I take a needle oiler to the range with me and put a few drops on the rails when they start getting dry. Difficult to do with grease.

Also on new semi autos I like to use the needle oiler and keep them very wet the first 500 rounds or so.
 
md7 said:
Welcome to THR and congrats on your recent acquisition. The 92 is a classic, well made pistol.

Your 92 should run with steel or brass cased ammo. I’ve only used brass in mine, but steel works. 115 gr would run fine, as would 124 and probably 147.

Ive always lubed mine with oil. It’s worked well enough for me. But I suppose grease would be alright too.

I like Federal HST in 124 grain for defense loads. But really Hydra Shock, Winchester Rangers, Golden Sabres, or Gold Dots would be fine too.

Beretta and Mec Gar make 17 round, flush fitting mags for the 92. Always good to stock up on some extras if those are available in your state.

Buy more ammo than you think you’ll need. Seems like supply can be inconsistent in both price and availability these past couple years.

Be safe and have fun!
Click to expand...

Thanks Md7, Christ, the guy at the shop sold me for self defense the Hornady Critical Duty, and one reviewer on youtube said that bullet can go thru walls possibly kill someone not intending too. I will just shoot that box at the range and try the Federal hst 124 like you recommend. I want to be safe, not sorry . appreciate your help!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

X
  • Locked
I Need some Advice
Replies
4
Views
319
kansas45
K
C
  • Locked
.25 635 "J. Cesar" Ruby Pistol "Made in Spain"
Replies
9
Views
2K
Jim K
J
silversport
  • Locked
25 Year Dream Fulfilled
Replies
6
Views
809
silversport
silversport
Zaydok Allen
  • Locked
Getting into 9mm..... A few questions....and just sharing
Replies
21
Views
1K
drband
drband
P
  • Locked
New gun owner, New forum member
Replies
4
Views
274
WingRider
W
Back
Top