Revolver Cylinder Wear

There is a lgs not too far away that always has a few different S&W Classic series revolvers in the case. They seem pricey even before the current panic but hey.... at least they have stock.

I went to the S&W website to see if there were any details showing in their pictures. It shows the M19 Classic 4" for $883. I suppose you might find it slightly discounted in a LGS (or maybe not, given the recent seller's market for everything). I gave $800 for my 1974 M19-3 4" six years ago. No box, but a spotless 3-T gun with a tiny turn line. I'd pay that all day long for 50 year old models before I'd even consider it for a brand new one.

Besides, it’s IMPOSSIBLE to bend a CRANE on an S&W.

THEY DON’T have one! Caution!

It’s called a YOKE, BTW...

I too, have “several” S&W’s...

bangswitch said:

I gave $800 for my 1974 M19-3 4" six years ago. No box, but a spotless 3-T gun with a tiny turn line. I'd pay that all day long for 50 year old models before I'd even consider it for a brand new one.

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Howdy Again

I only paid $125 for mine. Of course, that was in 1975 dollars. Just checked an online inflation calculator and that would be $616.03 today. I think I would grab a Model 19-3 like mine for that much in a heartbeat today.

Still have the box and all the goodies.






I think I have figured out why the new Model 19 Classic does not have a clearance cut on the underside of the forcing cone. I took the liberty of drawing an arrow on blackd24's photo. The arrow is pointing to what is apparently the modern version of the gas ring. There appears to be a clearance cut on the top surface which allows it to clear a full circle forcing cone.







Another question for blackd24:

Is there a spring plunger in the shroud under the barrel that engages the front of the ejector rod? Like this? This is from a different revolver, but S&W has used a spring plunger under the barrel since about 1905






The plunger engages a hollow in the front of the ejector rod.






I suspect this feature may be missing on the Model 19 Classic, instead I believe there is a spring plunger located in the frame or the yoke to help keep the cylinder closed.

GooseGestapo said:

Besides, it’s IMPOSSIBLE to bend a CRANE on an S&W.

THEY DON’T have one! Caution!

It’s called a YOKE, BTW...

I too, have “several” S&W’s...

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STOP yoking about your crane!

Master Blaster said:

I see two things in your picture:
1. The front of the cylinder edge was chamfered at the factory, that's normal.
2. I see some build up of lead and carbon, also normal after shooting 100+ rounds.

Try some gun cleaner and a cloth, or try a copper bristle brush like the ones made by Hoppes. If you draw and re-holster it you will see the blue wear off there as well. The chamfer helps smooth a known friction point for drawing and re-holstering to make it smoother, faster, and easier.

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Going with this. I get the same thing on any manurhin I have ever had. You have to shine a light on it to see it but it is there. I use copper plated bullets. I don't worry about it anymore.

Driftwood Johnson said:

I think I have figured out why the new Model 19 Classic does not have a clearance cut on the underside of the forcing cone. I took the liberty of drawing an arrow on blackd24's photo. The arrow is pointing to what is apparently the modern version of the gas ring. There appears to be a clearance cut on the top surface which allows it to clear a full circle forcing cone.

View attachment 1005609

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Sort of makes you wonder why somebody didn't figure out a way to make the gas rings like that on the old P&R-era revolvers. Finally, an improvement over the old-style engineering.

I'll still take my old-style wheel guns over the new ones, tough.

bangswitch said:

Sort of makes you wonder why somebody didn't figure out a way to make the gas rings like that on the old P&R-era revolvers. Finally, an improvement over the old-style engineering..

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Maybe in the old days they were more interested in deflecting fouling than the strength of a gun already overloaded by making it in .357 Magnum and recommended to be shot 75% with Specials.

bangswitch said:

I went to the S&W website to see if there were any details showing in their pictures. It shows the M19 Classic 4" for $883. I suppose you might find it slightly discounted in a LGS (or maybe not, given the recent seller's market for everything). I gave $800 for my 1974 M19-3 4" six years ago. No box, but a spotless 3-T gun with a tiny turn line. I'd pay that all day long for 50 year old models before I'd even consider it for a brand new one.
View attachment 1005017

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I see this comment so much.

Is this because having a lock hole, and a little metal flag that it pops up, is an insult to our intelligence? I agree that the only flag that should be included on a revolver, is the flag that drops out of the muzzle and says “Bang!”

But is the actual quality of the older Smiths noticeably better than the new ones?

My only Smith is a ”Talo delux” 629 and it seems like it’s perfect, except for that little flag that kind of peeks up

blackd24 said:

View attachment 1004448
I just wanted to see if this wear is normal? It’s pretty much the same on every cylinder. Thanks in advance.

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Taurus 80 came witn tje same relief cuts on the cylinder, I suppose to keep from scraping/wearing holster.

pairof44sp said:

But is the actual quality of the older Smiths noticeably better than the new ones?

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YES!

See my comments on the thread about canted or over-clocked barrels.

I have no problem with the internal lock and I have no problem with MIM parts. I have a problem with sloppy in house inspection allowing products out of the door that would never have made it out the door back "in the old days".

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/canted-or-over-clocked-s-w-revolver-barrels.890112/

That looks like lead deposits, not wear on the cylinder. I've seen it before and it's one of several reasons I don't shoot plain lead bullets anymore, but have switched to (Berry's) plated. Much easier cleanup.

Here's the forcing cone on my Model 19-9.



As you can see, no flat spot. (Those "white" areas to the right are just bad lighting.)

CajunBass said:

Here's the forcing cone on my Model 19-9.

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What about the latch at the front of the extractor rod?

Is there one?

I think I see a spring plunger in the frame that will engage the front of the yoke.

Driftwood Johnson said:

What about the latch at the front of the extractor rod?

Is there one?

I think I see a spring plunger in the frame that will engage the front of the yoke.

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I don't believe the new model 19 has the latch at the end of the ejector rod. Similar to my 627-6 that also does not have the latch on the end of the ejector rod, just the detent that engages the yoke/crane.

Driftwood Johnson said:

What about the latch at the front of the extractor rod?

Is there one?

I think I see a spring plunger in the frame that will engage the front of the yoke.

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MCB is correct. There is no latch at the front of the ejector rod. That silver ball is the plunger that engages the yoke.

CajunBass said:

That looks like lead deposits, not wear on the cylinder. I've seen it before and it's one of several reasons I don't shoot plain lead bullets anymore, but have switched to (Berry's) plated. Much easier cleanup.

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Oiling that spot on the front of the cylinder before shooting will also make for easier cleanup and less lead deposits.

pairof44sp said:

But is the actual quality of the older Smiths noticeably better than the new ones?

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Yes, the metallurgy and finish work is much better. Cost savings, automated machining and advanced materials development ruined the old-world guns. MIM has an odd feel to me - almost like it's not polished correctly - but opinions will vary on that. Still it is but one example of how advanced technology can ruin the feel of a good revolver, if not the function.

A brass brush & solvent will take that off. Many of my revolvers look like that after shooting but it does clean off

I have S&W Hand Ejectors in 45 caliber, from 1914 through 20?? In other words, the very oldest to the very newest. I have not had the problems I have read about. Perhaps it is like most problems on the internet that happen to “my cousin had a friend who’s sister dated a guy that had that happen to him”.

My most accurate revolvers are the newest. Same ammunition in all the revolvers for testing.

And the newest, with Model numbers instead of names, ie S&W Model 25-2 or S&W Model 625, can handle the 45 Super which would be inadvisable in the older Model 1917 or Model 1955.

Kevin

It's lead deposits. Apply some hoppies and let it sit, it takes most of it off. Don't scrub with a bristle brush, you'll damage the bluing. Other than that, it's nothing to worry about.

IIRC my late father paid $250 for this back in 1973. Never been fired.