Grounding Experiment

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Atavar

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I was having a problem with powder granules clinging inside the hopper on my powder thrower.
To satisfy my own curiosity (I know, poor cat) I hooked up a ground through a 100kΩ resister to my powder thrower to see if it would help with static cling.
I found the grounding adapter on Amazon.
Loaded 100 rounds of 9mm with N33 and was able to easily pour every granule of the remaining powder back into the powder bottle with none clinging to the inside of the hopper.
Now I need to figure out a more permanent connection without cluttering up the bench.
 

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At work we had sanding tables with palm Sanders hooked to dust vacuums. During winter, the operators would be getting big shocks, they suspected a chafed power wire touching the metal table. Nope. Static from dust particles moving thru the vac hose.
Hooked a bare wire from the sander to the table. Problem solved. The mfg actually sells anti static hose (conductive- no wire needed) but it is more expensive. Go figure!
 
For these purposes I have long used an appropriate length of nothing-special excess small gauge insulated stranded wire with a ring connector affixed to one end and an alligator clip to the other.

The opening in the ring connector is just big enough for the ground pin on a 3-pin plug to pass thru.

EDIT:

My main computer desk is built upon an 8' "banquet table" (particle board top mounted on a steel frame) that I purchased for the purpose ~32 years ago.

I have always had the steel frame grounded in this fashion. Whenever I approach (carpeted room) I have a habit ingrained whereby I trail a finger under the desk to touch that frame prior to touching any of the 'puter equipment.

If I have allowed the RH in the room to dip too low (approaching the 40% mark) I am rewarded with a spark. :)
 
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Perhaps I should try this.
Looks like one could fasten the 'subject' end of the grounding wire to the frame or one of the bolts holding the frame. Any metal to metal contact would ground all the parts. Possibly drill a couple discreet holes or use the bottom of the mounting bolt under the surface to attach the wire, then route the plug end behind the edge of the surface of the bench. I presume all that needs to plug in is the grounding plug?
 
I spray down any new hopper with Static Guard and let it dry. Also store with a used drier sheet. Never had powder cling.
Maybe some areas have more static and need grounding, IDK.
 
Whenever I approach (carpeted room) I have a habit ingrained whereby I trail a finger under the desk to touch that frame prior to touching any of the 'puter equipment.

If I have allowed the RH in the room to dip too low (approaching the 40% mark) I am rewarded with a spark.

Whenever I do the finger-to-ground discharge I get a little shock, which I find annoying. If you hold a small metal object in your hand (a key works great) and touch that to ground, you don't get a shock along with the arc.

Tim
 
I store my hopper with a dryer sheet inside it and give it a wipe before filling it and haven't had a static issue.

I do this as well.

Also, as the powder measure gets used, a coating of graphite builds up on the interior walls of the hopper and the static issue goes away.
 
If it's a big thing to you...scrape paint off unit where mlunting bolts go thru bench to make sure bolt/measure conductivity. Run ground wire under bolt washer and nut under bench (out of the way) and run to your ground.

May actually improve consistentcy of throws.

Archie said the same thing, beat me to it.
 
I spray down any new hopper with Static Guard and let it dry. Also store with a used drier sheet. Never had powder cling.
Maybe some areas have more static and need grounding, IDK.
Same here except I spray it on a cloth and wipe the hopper down inside and out. If anyone else tries it, be sure and let it dry thoroughly before adding powder. A few obstinate granules of powder stick to the hopper when I empty it, but a couple of raps with a knuckle and all is clear.
 
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