New Colt SAA?

Status
Not open for further replies.
You won’t, unless you convert to coil springs (pawl/hand, mainspring), and aftermarket wire bolt. Your best bet is “Ruger”, and even those won’t hold up to your apparent ignorant activities
 
Mark_Mark said:
Now were can I find heavy duty parts for a SA 1873??
Click to expand...

There are no heavy duty after market parts made for your SA 1873. You called a Stoeger, which means it was actually manufactured by Uberti. Stoeger owns Uberti.

The part that broke is the bolt. I may have neglected to mention that it is fairly uncommon for that part to break. I have a bunch of Colts and one Uberti Cattleman. The photo I supplied of my broken bolt is the only one I have ever encountered. (Knock on wood)

You can buy a new bolt from VTI Gunparts.

This link should take you there. Look for part item 12. The code is UB:400012.

There is no such thing as a heavy duty one. As a matter of fact, it is not guaranteed the part will drop right in, it often has to be fitted by an experienced gunsmith to get the timing just right. I sat with a friend while he fitted a new one in my Colt and it took him an hour or so to get it just right, and he is a very experienced SAA gunsmith.

https://www.vtigunparts.com/store/s...d=23&cat=Uberti+1873+Cattleman+SAA+and+Target




The other part that breaks frequently in the old Colts and replicas is the split trigger/bolt spring. This part actually breaks much more often than the bolt. Here is what one looks like when it breaks:

plkxze0xj.jpg




This item 19 on the same page at VTI. They sell a traditional spring like the one above, or a wire replacement spring. Both are on the same page at VTI.

The last part that breaks fairly often in these revolvers is the hand spring.

Item 7 shows a new hand with and without the hand spring. Again, some fitting my be required. The most recent revolvers made by Uberti do not have a leaf style handspring, instead they come with a separate coil spring that powers the hand. A separate hole needs to be drilled in the frame for the spring and its plunger. Notice there are two styles of hand listed at VTI, with two separate diameter pins. If you buy a new hand with the spring installed, it may need to be fitted. I prefer to install a new spring in the old hand, that way no fitting is required. I once replaced the hand spring in a shooter's revolver during the lunch break at a CAS match. No fitting the hand required when just the spring is replaced.

You can also buy springs at Wolff Springs.

https://www.gunsprings.com/


Go to the page for Uberti revolvers. You can buy a new trigger/bolt spring there in either the traditional flat type configuration or a wire version.

https://www.gunsprings.com/index.php?page=items&cID=3&mID=1&dID=96



You can also buy a reduced power mainspring with a slot cut up the center at Wolff springs.

However, unless you do a full action job to your revolver the reduced power mainspring may not have enough oomph to ignite your primers. Revolvers like this come off the assembly line with strong springs to overcome the inherent friction in the action. Substituting lighter springs may result in the internal friction preventing the spring from doing its job. Substituting springs is not an action job. It is best to go through the revolver and smooth up the parts that rub against each other, to reduce internal friction, before installing light springs.
 
Driftwood Johnson said:
There are no heavy duty after market parts made for your SA 1873. You called a Stoeger, which means it was actually manufactured by Uberti. Stoeger owns Uberti.

The part that broke is the bolt. I may have neglected to mention that it is fairly uncommon for that part to break. I have a bunch of Colts and one Uberti Cattleman. The photo I supplied of my broken bolt is the only one I have ever encountered. (Knock on wood)

You can buy a new bolt from VTI Gunparts.

This link should take you there. Look for part item 12. The code is UB:400012.

There is no such thing as a heavy duty one. As a matter of fact, it is not guaranteed the part will drop right in, it often has to be fitted by an experienced gunsmith to get the timing just right. I sat with a friend while he fitted a new one in my Colt and it took him an hour or so to get it just right, and he is a very experienced SAA gunsmith.

https://www.vtigunparts.com/store/s...d=23&cat=Uberti+1873+Cattleman+SAA+and+Target




The other part that breaks frequently in the old Colts and replicas is the split trigger/bolt spring. This part actually breaks much more often than the bolt. Here is what one looks like when it breaks:

View attachment 1034709




This item 19 on the same page at VTI. They sell a traditional spring like the one above, or a wire replacement spring. Both are on the same page at VTI.

The last part that breaks fairly often in these revolvers is the hand spring.

Item 7 shows a new hand with and without the hand spring. Again, some fitting my be required. The most recent revolvers made by Uberti do not have a leaf style handspring, instead they come with a separate coil spring that powers the hand. A separate hole needs to be drilled in the frame for the spring and its plunger. Notice there are two styles of hand listed at VTI, with two separate diameter pins. If you buy a new hand with the spring installed, it may need to be fitted. I prefer to install a new spring in the old hand, that way no fitting is required. I once replaced the hand spring in a shooter's revolver during the lunch break at a CAS match. No fitting the hand required when just the spring is replaced.

You can also buy springs at Wolff Springs.

https://www.gunsprings.com/


Go to the page for Uberti revolvers. You can buy a new trigger/bolt spring there in either the traditional flat type configuration or a wire version.

https://www.gunsprings.com/index.php?page=items&cID=3&mID=1&dID=96



You can also buy a reduced power mainspring with a slot cut up the center at Wolff springs.

However, unless you do a full action job to your revolver the reduced power mainspring may not have enough oomph to ignite your primers. Revolvers like this come off the assembly line with strong springs to overcome the inherent friction in the action. Substituting lighter springs may result in the internal friction preventing the spring from doing its job. Substituting springs is not an action job. It is best to go through the revolver and smooth up the parts that rub against each other, to reduce internal friction, before installing light springs.
Click to expand...
thanks man! I already ordered the parts, gun was not even fired, and I broke it. I’m pretty good with metal, I’ll figure it out.
 
If you set up a Colt action with coil springs and tuning, you can extend the life of the revolver to that of a Ruger or better. Almost all of my work these days centers around the conversion from flat springs to coil springs. Maybe a handful a year at the most want the flats to remain (collectables usually). Either way, the addition of an action stop and a bolt block imparts a high degree of mechanical accuracy which makes for an almost indestructible action. The individual coils allow for "finer tuning" as they don't have near the stacking that the flats have for the same movement - so there is less stress on the part and the spring (i.e. the bolt hitting the cyl as well as the bolt arm and hammer cam interaction).

20211006_151509.jpg

As you can see, the left bolt arm is rather thin and considerably longer which allows for much greater flexibility / longevity and pretty much alleviates a broken bolt arm as shown in DJ's post. The slab side of the bolt block gives overall stability to the bolt and minimal lateral movement which frees up the bolt to do its job of locking/unlocking the cylinder (it also corrects an oversized or sloppy bolt window in the frame).
Also, you can see the original combination spring is "repurposed" to be a "keeper" for the springs and the bolt block. The only flat spring left is the main . . . as it should since it is the best spring suited to move a heavy hammer (Freedom Arms knows this). Coils in this roll are lazy and need to be rather heavy to match the speed of a flat. In fact a flat main can be lightened somewhat and be fashioned to increase hammer speed!! A coil such as in a Ruger can be turned into a "progressive" spring which "fools" the shooter thinking it's much lighter but then stacks as the cycle continues. This is what I've turned to for competition ROA's. It allows faster / easier cycling while retaining sufficient power to smack a cap!!

Mike

By the way, the additional holes in the frame are for interference pins and have nothing to do with the coils. The pins rest on flats ground on the screwpins and are flush with the frame surface. With trigger guard and backstrap in place (yes, there is a pin for the hammer screw as well), the action screws can't work loose.
 
Last edited:
45 Dragoon said:
If you set up a Colt action with coil springs and tuning, you can extend the life of the revolver to that of a Ruger or better. Almost all of my work these days centers around the conversion from flat springs to coil springs. Maybe a handful at most want the flats to remain (collectables usually). Either way, the addition of an action stop and a bolt block imparts a high degree of mechanical accuracy which makes for an almost indestructible action. The individual coils allow for "finer tuning" as they don't have near the stacking that the flats have for the same movement - so there is less stress on the part and the spring (i.e. the bolt hitting the cyl as well as the bolt arm and hammer cam interaction).

View attachment 1034815

As you can see, the left bolt arm is rather thin and considerably longer which allows for much greater flexibility / longevity and pretty much alleviates a broken bolt arm as shown in DJ's post. The slab side of the bolt block gives overall stability to the bolt and minimal lateral movement which frees up the bolt to do its job of locking/unlocking the cylinder (it also corrects an oversized or sloppy bolt window in the frame).
Also, you can see the original combination spring is "repurposed" to be a "keeper" for the springs and the bolt block. The only flat spring left is the main . . . as it should since it is the best spring suited to move a heavy hammer (Freedom Arms knows this). Coils in this roll are lazy and need to be rather heavy to match the speed of a flat. In fact a flat main can be lightened somewhat and be fashioned to increase hammer speed!! A coil such as in a Ruger can be turned into a "progressive" spring which "fools" the shooter thinking it's much lighter but then stacks as the cycle continues. This is what I've turned to for competition ROA's. It allows faster / easier cycling while retaining sufficient power to smack a cap!!

Mike
Click to expand...
do you make your own coil spring?
 
45 Dragoon said:
Yessir, all springs are made in house for the Colt, Remington and Ruger (3 screw) platforms. Because of the need for some parts modification they aren't available by themselves.

Mike
Click to expand...
very cool Mike! I always wanted to be a gunsmith! I just retired from my previous career to take care of the family. At night, I tinker in my reloading room, learning how to do tigger jobs and such. You have a dream job!
 
Mark_Mark said:
I read that Taylor gets the extra treatment and cream of the Uberti crop. I got the Stoger :( …. oooh well, I like taking guns apart

I handled a Pietta and it was VERY GOOD and tight. Zero cylinder drag marks and $100 cheaper than Uberti
Click to expand...

I can't see paying 1000.00 just to have a pony on it. My Uberti/Cimarron was made in 2000. A set of Wolf springs got the action down to Colt level or maybe even lower. Best of all it doesn't have a damned transfer bar.

qaCtNdwl.jpg
 
Many years ago (1995), I wanted a genuine Colt SAA also. I bought a new 5 1/2" nickel version in .45 Colt which at that time came from the Colt Custom Shop. It's a beautiful handgun but a lousy shooter, accuracy-wise. Turns out the cylinder throats were oversized. I can drop an unloaded .452 or .454 bullet clean through the cylinder.

I hope that has been resolved in current models. There are some mighty fine replicas out there that I'd be happy to own, but "the real thing" has that extra appeal.
 
desmobob said:
Many years ago (1995), I wanted a genuine Colt SAA also. I bought a new 5 1/2" nickel version in .45 Colt which at that time came from the Colt Custom Shop. It's a beautiful handgun but a lousy shooter, accuracy-wise. Turns out the cylinder throats were oversized. I can drop an unloaded .452 or .454 bullet clean through the cylinder.

I hope that has been resolved in current models. There are some mighty fine replicas out there that I'd be happy to own, but "the real thing" has that extra appeal.
Click to expand...
As an earlier poster stated... it doesn’t matter the quality of the replica.... it’s still a replica- not the real deal.
 
desmobob said:
Many years ago (1995), I wanted a genuine Colt SAA also. I bought a new 5 1/2" nickel version in .45 Colt which at that time came from the Colt Custom Shop. It's a beautiful handgun but a lousy shooter, accuracy-wise. Turns out the cylinder throats were oversized. I can drop an unloaded .452 or .454 bullet clean through the cylinder.

I hope that has been resolved in current models. There are some mighty fine replicas out there that I'd be happy to own, but "the real thing" has that extra appeal.
Click to expand...
.454 straight through… dang, that’s really bad. Fun guns but I don’t think the prices for New Colt SAA will go up. If I buy a Real Colt, I’ll wear it and shoot it regular, you can’t take it with you and your kids will probably pawn it for a Yoga machine
 
JCooperFan1911...Don't know if you are still following this thread, but you asked the question as to how the Colt SAA in .357 mag stands up over time. I purchased my 1966 Colt SAA .357 magnum 4 3/4" barrel new in 1966. It has seen a lot of magnum ammunition ran through it from mildly hot loads to what I'm using now which is 14 to 15 grains of 2400 under a 140 grain Remington SJHP. It has held up quite well. I've even taken two Blacktails with it. I would not recommend 125 grain bullets due to the possibility of flame cutting.
 
Last edited:
Mr. Mosin said:
As an earlier poster stated... it doesn’t matter the quality of the replica.... it’s still a replica- not the real deal.
Click to expand...
Sometimes people either don't want to spend the money for an original, or can't, so the quality of the replica will matter, to them.

I built an AC Cobra replica years ago, financially an original Shelby version was out of the question. I built it the best quality I could, using a Jaguar XK-E front and rear suspension, tube frame, and vintage big block Ford drive train. I don't think I would have enjoyed it any more had it been an original.

I'm sure people with Uberti's are enjoying them just as well.

Funny, people used to ask to me re: the Cobra, "Is it real?". I'd say "do you think it's a figment of your imagination?"
 
Gordon said:
Ah there is where the New Frontier comes in . Unless it's "close enough" or Kentucky windage at different yardages wit different loads.
Click to expand...

Yes, I know.
For many - fixed sights are a pragmatic choice. SAA , M10, Vaquero are good examples.
Mr Bushmaster indicated a load similar to one I use in a Vaquero - which is dead on for me at 25 steps.
Over half a century with the same revolver is a formidable experience,
I was asking if his load/ revolver shot to sights or if some specific sight picture was needed?
Thanks !
 
"The real deal". I guess that means different things to different people. On a 3rd generation SAA, the Colt name means nothing to me. For me, "the real deal" is a 1st generation gun and 2nd's to a lesser extent. The 3rd is just a modern gun made by a modern company owned by an investment group. Far detached from the Colt family. So the quality of the sixgun the name is stamped on is more important to me than the name itself. Which is why I'll always choose a domestic USFA or Standard over a 3rd generation Colt if given the choice.
 
CraigC said:
On a 3rd generation SAA, the Colt name means nothing to me. For me, "the real deal" is a 1st generation gun and 2nd's to a lesser extent. The 3rd is just a modern gun made by a modern company owned by an investment group.
Click to expand...

Sad but true and it gets more commonplace with many brands we used to trust and respect. For example, I had a Triumph motorcycle back in the late '70s. Even back then, it wasn't truly a "real" Triumph in the strictest sense. Today's Triumphs may have little or no real connection to their namesake.
 
desmobob said:
Sad but true and it gets more commonplace with many brands we used to trust and respect. For example, I had a Triumph motorcycle back in the late '70s. Even back then, it wasn't truly a "real" Triumph in the strictest sense. Today's Triumphs may have little or no real connection to their namesake.
Click to expand...
But they sure are MUCH Much much improved over the pre 74 British Bikes in every way ! Even the build quality. The only thing they lack is the artistic castings of the early bikes with their smooth lines and functionality . Believe me I was a hard core Limey biker 1966-1986 . I have had a new 900cc"Jack Pine" Scrambler and a 2300 cc (!!!) Rocket III - They are awesome machines ! My son has a new Bonneville, because I had a 1968 version until 1983 and other 650 Triumhs , BSAs and a Royal Enfield (My first real bike in 1966). Too bad the Firearm industry doesn't actually "Improve" things all that much with fixed cylinder bushing in SAA or S&W Shrouded Chemically rifled barrels ect ! :(
 
I want a real Colt too. But at 2500-3500 I am gonna pass. Uberti isn't the answer for me as I had two brand new El patron .357 revolvers fail miserably in the past year.
The new spaghetti westerns are great looking paper weights. Just don't try to shoot them.
 
45 Dragoon said:
If you set up a Colt action with coil springs and tuning, you can extend the life of the revolver to that of a Ruger or better. Almost all of my work these days centers around the conversion from flat springs to coil springs. Maybe a handful a year at the most want the flats to remain (collectables usually). Either way, the addition of an action stop and a bolt block imparts a high degree of mechanical accuracy which makes for an almost indestructible action. The individual coils allow for "finer tuning" as they don't have near the stacking that the flats have for the same movement - so there is less stress on the part and the spring (i.e. the bolt hitting the cyl as well as the bolt arm and hammer cam interaction).

View attachment 1034815

As you can see, the left bolt arm is rather thin and considerably longer which allows for much greater flexibility / longevity and pretty much alleviates a broken bolt arm as shown in DJ's post. The slab side of the bolt block gives overall stability to the bolt and minimal lateral movement which frees up the bolt to do its job of locking/unlocking the cylinder (it also corrects an oversized or sloppy bolt window in the frame).
Also, you can see the original combination spring is "repurposed" to be a "keeper" for the springs and the bolt block. The only flat spring left is the main . . . as it should since it is the best spring suited to move a heavy hammer (Freedom Arms knows this). Coils in this roll are lazy and need to be rather heavy to match the speed of a flat. In fact a flat main can be lightened somewhat and be fashioned to increase hammer speed!! A coil such as in a Ruger can be turned into a "progressive" spring which "fools" the shooter thinking it's much lighter but then stacks as the cycle continues. This is what I've turned to for competition ROA's. It allows faster / easier cycling while retaining sufficient power to smack a cap!!

Mike

By the way, the additional holes in the frame are for interference pins and have nothing to do with the coils. The pins rest on flats ground on the screwpins and are flush with the frame surface. With trigger guard and backstrap in place (yes, there is a pin for the hammer screw as well), the action screws can't work loose.
Click to expand...
Just fitted the bolt, not bad, not easy either. Now I know how to do it. 1873 is pretty straight forward to work on.
 
Master Blaster said:
I want a real Colt too. But at 2500-3500 I am gonna pass. Uberti isn't the answer for me as I had two brand new El patron .357 revolvers fail miserably in the past year.
The new spaghetti westerns are great looking paper weights. Just don't try to shoot them.
Click to expand...


Funny you say that. I know folks that shoot 20,000 psi range loads out of theirs and they love um!! Like I posted above, the "spaghetti westerns" can be made to run as long or longer than a Ruger, you can treat um like a fool and you can't necessarily do that with a $2500 + Colt out of the box! On top of that you'd still have less than $1000 in the Uberti or Pietta!

I know everyone wants a $500.00 gun to run like a $2000.00 + gun . . . and if it won't , it's just trash . . . Folks win state championships with these guns but then they don't mind adding a buck or two to make that happen. For me, I've spent a lot of time figuring out how to make that happen with these S.A.s and it's rather satisfying when it happens.

Mike
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

A
  • Locked
new colt SAA?
Replies
3
Views
444
DPris
D
N
  • Locked
Info Request: Current Production Colt SAA
Replies
13
Views
2K
Hawk
H
MCMXI
  • Locked
Colt SAA .45 Colt in stainless steel with 4-3/4" barrel?
Replies
5
Views
2K
rcmodel
R
V
  • Locked
"Best" SAA mfg?
2 3
Replies
71
Views
4K
CraigC
CraigC
M
  • Locked
Question status of Colt Company
2
Replies
26
Views
2K
runninmike
R
Back
Top