Evaluating Your Daily Carry Gun and Holster

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luzyfuerza

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Trying to find the best daily carry gun, holster, and carry position is difficult. There are too many choices. And, unfortunately, most discussions on this topic just degenerate into statements that all sound like "my super-blaster-ray-monster-mouse-gun is good enough for me". These, of course, are simply opinions, and we all know who has opinions.

One thing that always seems to be missing in these discussions is measured data. Such as:

1) your measured times from beep to first shot when drawing from the holster,
2) your measured split times between shots (when firing the second shot only when the sights have settled back on target--no hammers),
3) your shots-on-target percentages when shooting at speed from the holster,
4) the number of times you failed to disengage the safety (if your gun has one) in 500 dry presentations from the holster, and
5) performance on some standard defensive handgun skills test (my favorite is the old IDPA classifier).

With measured data, we can reach some reliable conclusions, and skip over the opinions.

In this thread, I'm looking for comments from those who have used measured data to decide what gun/holster/carry location is best for them. Will you share the data that you used to come to your conclusions? Its worth the effort--the data you collected and the conclusions you reached are more valuable to members here than thousands of opinions!

If you haven't used measurements to evaluate your carry gear, I challenge you to go the range with your gear and a timer and collect some! Shoot your gear, actually measure the results, and come back and report what you found! Provide pics! I'm especially interested in data from those who have a "carry rotation".


I'm pretty sure that this will not be a popular thread. And, if all you can contribute is opinions, then this probably isn't the thread for you.
 
6 inch circle at 6-7 yards, if both shots don't hit the 6 inch circle the pair doesn't count, 1/4 second split average over several different sessions.
That is with a Glock 19 and it was loaded with +P (carry ammo) not FMJ.
Comparisons of time where one was content to hit inside a silhouette don't compare to hitting a 6 inch circle; obviously I'd be quicker if I relaxed my accuracy goal.
I carry Glock 19 AIWB which affords the quickest draw and best access & concealment if seated, have not measured draw time.

Glock 19 (minimum) is what is carried in a "good area" or elsewhere, wherever.
How about anticipated threat? Yea, I anticipate that if I have to defend against a threat I want at least a Glock 19 in hand.
Threat assessment? You bet; I assess that if defending against a threat I'd want at least a Glock 19 in hand.

Alternatively, I might carry a Glock 22 or 32 - average splits are .03 - .04 (three/four hundredths) slower than the 19 (using +P in the 19 makes comparison fair).
 
I carry a SIG Sauer P365 with a 15 rd magazine in a Gunner's Haven Inside the Waistband Holster IWB with FOMI clip for concealability and comfort. I wear just a buttoned shirt or T shirt over it most of the year. IWB holsters are not the fastest to draw from concealment, especially when the gun is riding low inside the belt and I prefer the longer grip of the 15 round mag so that I can grab the gun more positively. I carry at 3 o'clock, so that I can also sit down comfortably and bend without the gun poking me. Walking the dog in winter and wearing another layer or two over it, times will be slower.

I practice at 7 yards, with a good amount of dry fire practice, and can positively hit a paper plate in between 1.1 to 1.5 seconds, down from under one second when I was younger, split is on average 0.2 seconds. Going faster will make hits an uncertain thing. Times with a Glock 19/17 are slightly faster.

Once in a while I grab a button-down shirt end instead of the gun butt and abort the draw, not finding it worth it to rip the shirt during practice.
 
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I don’t have numerical data, however I took a training course where we had to shoot one handed, both from the hip and with arm extended. When under duress, (low light, sirens blaring, flashing light, and the instructor behind you yelling and tapping your shoulder) and moving, I now know why there are so many misses in shooting incidents even at very close range. Our targets were no more than 5 yards.
My takeaway for equipment was to make sure you only need to do very simple movements to draw and shoot. The rest is mental focus.
 
Right off, 60% of the question, the holster and position part, are always going to be an opinion. Everyone is different, and youre going to get a bazillion answers here, and its all based on opinion.

Measured data, I think youre going to find that many, if not most, dont have access to or use the timers, and/or have a place to shoot that way, so youre going to be limited to those who shoot more competitively, and that tends to be sort of skewed data, especially if its being shot as a "game" and from game type gear.

I think regardless what you choose to carry the gun in, 1.5 seconds from holster to first rounds fired is pretty much the basic standard you want to try to meet from concealment. Seemed to be about what I usually got in practice when I did time it.

Beyond that, its all you and the gun. And I think the answers here are going to vary wildly too, depending on what people choose, and how, how much, and how often they normally shoot.

Truthfully, I dont think the majority of people who carry a gun, really go much beyond finding a holster, or pocket, and putting the gun in it, and calling it good.
 
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Truthfully, I dont think the majority of people who carry a gun, really go much beyond finding a holster, or pocket, and putting the gun in it, and calling it good.

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Even on gun forums.
Evaluation / selection process for some, especially if in a perceived "good area" / low threat:
Better than nothing? check
Wouldn't want to get shot with it? check
Fits in pocket? check
Selection process complete.;)

That assumes one can dress as they choose and are not limited by work clothes
 
Measured data, I think youre going to find that many, if not most, dont have access to or use the timers, and/or have a place to shoot that way...

I don't have access to the equipment necessary to satisfy your request to the extent desired.

For me, this is kind of weak sauce.

A timer costs about the same as four or five boxes of 9mm. Too dear?

Do you have friend with a timer? Does your club have one you could borrow?

No friend? How about a free shot timer app for your smart phone?

No money for range fees or ammo? Use the free smartphone timer app and set it up to capture time from beep-to-dry-click in your house. If you can't configure the timer app to capture the dry click, every timer app I've ever used will produce two beeps separated by a par time, and you can record whether your dry press made the par time or not.

Not wanting to play is absolutely fine!

But saying "I can't" doesn't contribute anything at all.
 
Decades ago, I spent an afternoon with Bill Jordan. I learned a lot and practiced every day before going on duty for 13 years. I got fairly quick, and it saved my hide a couple of times.
That was 50 years ago, I'm only half fassed now.
 
I agree, "cant" doesnt contribute anything, and seems to be a pretty common response, across the board, guns and gear wise, but I do believe its more likely reality than not, and youll just have to accept it. As I said, youre more apt to get the answers you seek, from the gun games crowd than the general gun crowd arena, and those game results are likely to be skewed somewhat too.

As for the phone apps. I've tried a couple of those, and they didnt work very well. It was a while ago, and maybe I didnt get the right ones. I do have a PACT timer and it works well, but Ive pretty much quit using it, as I find it more of a distraction than a help. They are handy for some things though.

Most here where I shoot wouldnt even know what you were talking about, let alone have one. I know a lot of people who do carry, and most of them have never drawn a loaded gun from a holster, and dont practice in dry fire. They also dont shoot very much, and when they do, its mostly basic bullseye or pop can type shooting.

I just think that is probably more realistic when it comes to the general population than those who might have the info you seek.
 
I shoot my EDC gear in most matches. Yes, once in awhile I shoot something that isn't first on the EDC list for fun but the EDC gear gets quite a work out.
 
A question about number 1---Where are your hands when the BEEP goes off ? Are they on your head, grabbing your ears, thumbs hooked in the belt or
already on the gun (pocket carry) or elsewhere?
 
I bought a shot timer a few weeks ago so I don't have much time using it.

With a stock Glock 17 from 7 yards shooting at 8" circle. All holsters at 3 o'clock. Hands at surrender position, head high


Concealed with a good OTW holster: 1.5 sec to first shot on target.

Open with same OTW holster: 1.15 to 1.25

Open with an open top holster (not good for concealment): .96 to 1.1

Splits: .19 to .21 (.23 to .24 at worst on a cold day) (with a G22 40S&W: .22 to .24)


My best Bill drill time so far is 2.08 seconds but I'll admit I'm consistent. (I'm also fairly new to shooting and I'm a half century old)

Just doing speed drills (like the bill drill) can be a bottomless pit which keeps you from doing all around fundamental training. I will be incorporating my shot timer into all around training and not just racing with an open top holster.
 
A question about number 1---Where are your hands when the BEEP goes off ? Are they on your head, grabbing your ears, thumbs hooked in the belt or already on the gun (pocket carry) or elsewhere?

They can be anywhere you want! Test your times from various starting positions, record the results, and let us know what you concluded.
 
I shoot my EDC gear in most matches. Yes, once in awhile I shoot something that isn't first on the EDC list for fun but the EDC gear gets quite a work out.

@GEM , I assume you've tested "race" kind of gear head-to-head against your EDC stuff. What results did you observe and what conclusions did you come to?
 
Realistic scenarios with the firearm and equipment (to include clothing) you actually use can't be understated. The pro timer is an extremely valuable tool to measure data, since they always tell the truth and don't care how bad your feelings get hurt. Once this is understood, ask yourself a simple question:
What is "good enough" for you, in terms of speed and accuracy. You can rationalize and argue all you want regarding which gun/ammunition/holster/method of carry, perceived threat, presumed scenarios, etc., but in the end (if you are unfortunate enough to put your skills to the test) you are going to "run what you brung" at the time and place the event occurs (meaning your equipment, access to equipment, skills, physical condition, etc.), and there will not be a "reset" option. MY speeds, split times, accuracy level, etc. are of no consequence to anyone else except my opponent(s)- and my abilities always have room for improvement.
For me, in the environment where I mostly exist, a S&W shield 9 is the answer almost all the time. Due to clothing/environmental considerations, I usually carry IWB in a kydex holster at 4:00. This time of year, I am able to carry OWB with the necessary "cover garment" to stay concealed. Current training reflects all of these factors.
In addition to live fire training (2x a month- down from 1x a week, with per-session round count at a 50% reduction from 24 months ago), I have invested more time into physical conditioning and MMA/kickboxing at the dojo where I am a member (at least 3 nights a week). Reasons for this:
1- more physical conditioning and time on the mat can only help the skill set, physical and mental preparation (inoculation to interpersonal violence), and overall health
2- the monthly rate of membership doesn't increase by training more (at least not where I train)
3- coaches and good training partners always tell the truth and don't care how bad your feelings get hurt.
 
Sig Sauer C3 1911 and 2 extra magazines. Been my EDC for 10+ years. Have tried other guns, always come back to this one.

OWB leather holster by Braid's Holsters

Once a month I shoot a 5x8 index card with a 1" stick on dot
Start at 3 yards and shoot one magazine.
Shoot until every shot hits the card.
Move back 3 yards and repeat.
Continue till your at 21y
Swap to a 3x5 card and repeat
If you miss start over from the beginning.

You could also use the 30 shot drill Larry Vickers has a YouTube video about.
 
@FL-NC , I was hoping that you would comment. Can you describe how you came to the conclusion that the Shield 9 and strong-side kydex was right for you?
In short, experimentation. Shield 9 for the caliber, thinness (helping concealment- this is Fl and I'm not a big person) and basic system of operation (Glock is heavily imprinted on me, but I prefer the grip on the shield VS the one on the Glock 43). Strong side because that is where I always carry my pistol, and when applied in a good way, OCD can create good habits- also seeing people when I was an instructor who moved their pistol to different locations on their gear, sometimes reached in the wrong place for it and ended up with nothing. Kydex for the consistent fit, and because the size doesn't change like leather or nylon may, depending on multiple factors. Also, kydex allows the user to rapdly draw AND re-holster, which can be to a tactical advantage, depending on the situation.
 
Also, kydex allows the user to rapdly draw AND re-holster, which can be to a tactical advantage, depending on the situation.

I look at re-holstering as a big deal. I started with kydex and later tried leather. That lasted 5 minutes.
 
Right off, 60% of the question, the holster and position part, are always going to be an opinion. Everyone is different, and youre going to get a bazillion answers here, and its all based on opinion.

Measured data, I think youre going to find that many, if not most, dont have access to or use the timers, and/or have a place to shoot that way, so youre going to be limited to those who shoot more competitively, and that tends to be sort of skewed data, especially if its being shot as a "game" and from game type gear.

I think regardless what you choose to carry the gun in, 1.5 seconds from holster to first rounds fired is pretty much the basic standard you want to try to meet from concealment. Seemed to be about what I usually got in practice when I did time it.

Beyond that, its all you and the gun. And I think the answers here are going to vary wildly too, depending on what people choose, and how, how much, and how often they normally shoot.

Truthfully, I dont think the majority of people who carry a gun, really go much beyond finding a holster, or pocket, and putting the gun in it, and calling it good.

Pretty much what I see, including myself. It's not that I couldn't buy a timer, it's the fact that the ranges I go to don't allow drawing and firing. Have to start at the low ready at best. So, the only draw and "fire" I can do is with snap caps at home. No recoil = not the real deal.

Blame this on unpredictable working hours and days, with out of town work thrown in with local work. Weekends get used up with house and car repairs for the family. Still got one kid left to get out of the house after graduating college this December. So, gun game money (if I had the time) is spent on house, family needs, college, etc.

Fer example, Thanksgiving week was 36 hours of work M, T, & W. Thursday at an inlaw's house. Friday all day chores at my house. Saturday, repairing my wife's car. Sunday afternoon, picked up a rimfire rifle at a local shop then later went to a local range with a neighbor, because I had a 4 day weekend to make those things possible. Fired my S&W 66 snub, Browning Buckmark, and RM380. The rimfire rifle will have to wait.

It's so easy to post here on my phone during a work break, that it would appear that I have more time to go shooting. But that's not my reality.
 
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We are not as sophisticated as others. That is to say we operate under the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) Our handgun range on the property is simplistic with usual shooting distances of 3-7-10 Yds out to 25Yds maximum. Our EDC is a S&W Shield 9X19mm with (8) round capacity magazines for a total capacity of (8+1). The belt holster and magazine pouch are Comp-Tac products which are also utilized for daily concealed carry. I simply do not do the weapon rotation carry bit. Be it good, bad or indifferent the S&W Shield is my EDC. Past the midpoint of my seventh decade, I do not see myself making significant changes to my EDC.
 
There is no such thing as a perfect solution. Responses on forums like this very finer one often confuse rather than simplify thinking. So here is my effort to uncomplicated the OP’ dilemma. Let’s start with the tenet that the best EDC is the one you will prefer to carry, that you can handle with speed and accuracy, and that offers good lethality. The best holster is one that is comfortable to wear and provides good retention. In other words it is personal choice. The only best is what is best to you.

I carry a Ruger Security 9 Compact with either a ten round ot fifteen round magazine depending in concealment needs. I use both IWB Kydex holster for IWB and a leather holster for OWB carry. In all cases my spare magazine is 15 rounds so I have either 25 or 30 +1 capacity on the street.

I selected my EDC based upon my like of it, my speed and accuracy with it, and it’s lethality. I do not subscribe to having different carry guns. I say that from experience in military gunfights. The better you know your SD firearm the better off you will be. There is no such thing as a magic bullet, magic holster, or magic gun.
 
I've been working on multiples recently. Thought that I could take the opportunity to use a multiples drill to compare results between a k-frame revolver and my XD 9mm service model. What @FL-NC calls experimentation. I like revolvers, but have never compared shooting results head-to-head between an autoloader and a heavy-duty revolver before.

I chose Ken Hackathorn's 3-Second Head Shot Standards (https://nebraskashooters.com/other/shooting-drills/hackathorn-3-second-head-shot/), but the exact drill doesn't really matter.

The k-frame and the XD are similar weight, have the same sight radius, great triggers, and grips that fit my hands, and I've shot both of them extensively. I shot the drill from the low ready so that holster type, position, and concealment weren't factors.

Here are the results:

20211130_165646.jpg

Holes on target with the revolver:

20211130_150637.jpg

And holes on target with the autoloader:

20211130_154355.jpg

Average times with the revolver were a little bit (0.43 sec) slower, but I was just a little more accurate (three misses versus five). Also, average times varied by only about one standard deviation, so I'm not sure that the time differences are statistically significant.

What is significant is that for all 16 iterations, I comfortably met Hackathorn's standards (under three seconds par time and two misses or less) with both the revolver and the autoloader,. So, Hackathorn might say that I am competent with both platforms.

But the revolver carries only 6 rounds versus 16+1, and obviously is much slower to reload.

Conclusion: in this test, I shot this revolver almost as well as this autoloader. But the disadvantages of low firepower and glacial reloading put the revolver at a real disadvantage when thinking about using it as an everyday carry piece.


Edited to add: I've wondered whether engaging targets right to left or left to right was fastest. Based on this data, it doesn't make any difference.
 
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