38 GDHP Pull Down reloading

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Akula69

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I have about 1K 130 grain .38 Speer GDHP that I am starting to feel squirrely about due to age (I'm not totally sure, but I feel they were probably loaded about 25-30 years ago). They have been stored in a climate controlled space the entire time I've owned them (20 years) but I'm starting to feel I should pull the projectiles and renew the powder. I see absolutely no external corrosion or discoloration of the nickel plated cases. Up to this point the ones I have shot have performed without problems in my 686.

Question for the group: What powder would be the best substitute? I am leaning towards HP-38, but I also have Win231 and Autocomp, as well as ACC #7 and Ramshot True Blue. I am open to attempting to acquire another powder if I need to.
 
Why do you want to pull them? Worried about the powder? Pull a few and see if there is any deterioration/green, if not, they should be good to go.

I am assuming .38 Spl, so HP-38, AA #7, or True Blue would do just fine. I have no experience with Autocomp. What power level do you want to achieve?
 
Why do you want to pull them? Worried about the powder? Pull a few and see if there is any deterioration/green, if not, they should be good to go.

I am assuming .38 Spl, so HP-38, AA #7, or True Blue would do just fine. I have no experience with Autocomp. What power level do you want to achieve?

Attempting to duplicate the factory load (4 shot average over chrono @ 899 FPS, six inch barrel, unknown powder type but appears similar to Bullseye @ 4.2 grains). Speer load tables list several powders for use: Unique, Bullseye, Red Dot, IMR 7625, 231, and Herco.

My concern is the rounds spent the first 10+ years of their life in a non-climate controlled warehouse. I've not had any misfires, but when pulled down the bottom of the projectile is discolored (tarnished?). No obviously green colored spots or clumping of powder.
 
Personally, I don't think age itself is a factor, and normally a cartridge is a sealed, air/water tight container. I probably closely inspect the cases looking for any corrosion (not just tarnish) and shoot some. I have successfully and safely fired handloads 30 years old, and some surplus 30-06 40+ years old and some 45 ACP from Korea War era...
 
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Their warehouse stay... were they in boxes and sealed? Were they dumped in an open bin? If they were palletized or boxed well, I'd say it didn't hurt them a bit.
 
I still using 45 Auto that I loaded back in 2001. It's been stored in a 50 cal ammo cans. For 6-7 years it was in a storage locker without heat or a/c. (Don't store my ammo that way anymore) Never had a misfire and still clocks at the same speed. I see no reason you should pull yours and start over.
 
Their warehouse stay... were they in boxes and sealed? Were they dumped in an open bin? If they were palletized or boxed well, I'd say it didn't hurt them a bit.

Gonna handle several questions at once here: Yes, they were in the factory boxes and sealed. The warehouse is in Alabama on the coast. Yes, I've shot a butt ton of them without trouble in the past, but as they become 3-4 decades old I start to wonder (hell, at 4 decades old stuff started to show hail damage on me!).
 
Chronograph would tell how consistent they are, and offer some insight on their continued trustability.
 
Take a few random samples and pull the bullet. Look for corrosion. Inspect and smell the powder. If all looks ok, send 'em down range!

I shot plenty of 30yr old ammo, poorly stored, without any issues.
 
If they still shoot, feel the same, and are still accurate, I’d just keep shooting them. Maybe pull a sample of 5 if you are really worried about it, but much ammo has been stored in worse conditions for longer periods and has been just fine.
 
They are your rounds. Do what you want with them.

To answer your original question, unique and bullseye are my go to powders for .38 special rounds.

But any powder listed in the manuals will work just fine. It's not rocket science. But what you want to do with the loads can dictate a desired powder as well. In a 6" barrel, are you wanting top end FPS or are you wanting less recoil?

I see where you say you are trying to get 899 FPS for that 130gr Gold Dot. You will probably need something like Titegroup or Power Pistol to get into the upper FPS ranges.
 
If I was worried then I'd pull a random sample. If things looked fine put them back together and send them over a crony. If they were at or below factory velocity then shoot away. If things are more than 10% faster replace the propellant. This assuming they are factory. The only way to get the velocity goals you seek is to actually test them. Start with what you have then try the Tightgroup if you can find any these days.
 
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