LUBE PAD QUESTION???

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74man

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I have little shards of brass imbedded in my pad, how can I clean the pad or do I have to buy a new pad or are the better when they get dirty? Do the shards of brass hurt the cases that get lubed and sized? I primed some .223 brass several years ago and have now gotton around to maybe reloading them, I got a Rem. 223 case gauge and some of the cases didn't plunk like they should so I resized them and inspected the cases. I found some cases that looked like they were either over pressured or looked like hairline cracks so I deprimed the live primers and put the cases into the recycle metal bucket. I was lubing every fifth case and I ran into four cases where the bottom broke off and I had to use a case remover. After the forth stuck case or broken bottom rim I decided to lube every case I resized and didn't have another stuck case or broken rim out of about 800 cases. It turned into a long day at the press but I finally know that every case will pass the case gauge or plunk test. That is what I did between NFL Games. TODAY!!!
 
I’ve washed the lube pads in warm water and Dawn or a similar dish washing detergent. You have to rub off any debris on the pad but that can be difficult. Use a pad or rag. Brass shavings can cut you.

Let it dry.

I use RCBS Case Lube II which is water soluble.

But as said, they are not expensive to replace.
 
I’ve never cleaned one before. But then again, I’ve never had one, back then when I used lube that way I couldn’t afford one, so it was a 1/4 of a washcloth tacked to a piece of wood that got the lube done. I’ve since switched to Imperial wax. Good luck.
 
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I was lubing every fifth case...

I do not lube every case, but the number of un-lubed cases needed is kind of a "feel thing" based on how recently you re-lubed your case pad.

Lubing every case builds up lubricant in the die and can lead to dents in the shoulder and body. Not the end of the world as they will blow out at the next firing, but they look bad. I generally hang the shoulder of the case over the side of the lube pad so as to not get much lubricant on the neck. My fingers usually have some lubricant on them from handling the cases and I rub the case neck to get a thin layer of lubricant on them.

When I get started resizing cases, I'l run a couple/few lubed cases through the sizing die to get the die lubricated. Then I'll two or three dry cases through before the next lubricated case. If sizing begins to get more difficult before you have completed the dry case group, run another lubricated case through the sizing die. this is where the "feel" comes in.

As you consume the lubricant on the lube pad, you will need to size a lubricated case more frequently with fewer dry cases in between.

You will need a bit of lubricant on the inside of the case neck as well. It helps the expander button move more smoothly in the case mouth. I dip the mouth of the lubricated case on the case pad to get a but of lubricant around the mouth then I rub the excess off on the outside with my fingers. Again, you will develop a "feel" of how frequently you need to do this.

Be conservative at first.

I hope this helps.
 
My lube pads never seem to get dirty or laden with brass shards when using Hornady One Shot. Just sayin’…

(I’d also consider that something is broken in your process if you’re having opportunity for contamination of your lube pad by brass shards - brass should be clean at that point in the process. But One Shot does eliminate the potential altogether).
 
As for cleaning a pad, I'd use a straight edge to scrape off as much lube as possible and wash in a good detergent (Dawn or 409).

I'm a K.I.S.S. kinda guy and use my fingers to apply Mink Oil Boot Dressing Cream, on every case (I'm sizing every case, so I lube every case and I have never experienced a stuck case). MOBDC is as good as Imperial, but is much easier to find. "A little dab will do ya" on three fingers of my left hand, pickm up a case and roll it around in my fingers a bit and size it. A "mass rubbing" with an old towel removes most (enough) of the lube and residual lube isn't "oily/greasy" feeling. Used on .223/5.56, 303 British, 7.62x52, 7.62x54r, 30-30 and 44 Magnum...
 
I used One Shot, for a while. Works great for straight wall, pistol cases.
I had 4 stuck rifle cases, at different times, different calibers. Never stuck a case when using my pad and RCBS lube. Lube every case.

I used the pad for rifle cases, haven't cleaned it in 45 years.

Are your trimming before lubing? Shavings inside neck getting into pad?

Lube,
Resize,
Trim,
Tumble

May be your best bet.

Your old pad? Chunk it and get another or use a rag, wash cloth, or t-shirt.

I am about out of One Shot and RCBS lube. I am going to mix lanoline and alcohol to give it try.
 
um...
Can't you just turn the pad over and use the other/clean side?

Edit:
I have used the edge of a metal electrical wall switch cover as a scraper to clean a lube pad, but I haven't used a lube pad for years.
I lube up a couple/3 of 30cal cleaning patches, put them in a plastic container with the cases, put the lid on and roll it around for a minute or 2 to lube the cases.
I don't use spray lubes because it can get inside the cases, just me though, not looking for a debate about it.
jmo,
.
.
 
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I use oderless mineral spirits and a rag. Cleans great and will wipe off slivers. Lube every case for consistency and to avoid stuck cases. Been using a lube pad 30 plus years, the same RCBS pad. Use Dillion case lube or my homemade equivalent sprayed on the pad. One spray will lube many cases.
 
I just cleaned mine yesterday. Some mild hand soap in the pump. I had some walnut media stuck in a case that spilt out onto the pad. It didn't interfere with the lube process. But I had bought a new bottle of RCBS Lube2. It was an easy process. After rinse, dabbed excess water off with paper towels. And let sit for a couple hours to air dry. Reapply lube to pad.
 
That spray lube gets in places where it ain’t suppose to be, like primer pockets, a very bad habit to get into. Do not even ask. I must have a half dozen cans and pump spray bottles sitting, that I tried and abandoned. I just use pads, have 3, never put dirty brass, any kind of crud, on a pad. Work the lube into the pad surface with a finger tip. On the RCBS, leave one end to in/out lube the neck, push the mouth down and turn, not through the pad. If you get a plug, stick it with a dental pick on an angle, lift it out, put back in the hole in the pad.

Take the pad out of the holder and wash it off with real warm water and Dawn with a wet sponge or small square of Scotchbrite. Let dry for a day, re-apply lube, put back in case and get back to work. I can rightfully wear the colors of four clans, so I be thrifty.

You need to keep crud out of those dies!
 
That spray lube gets in places where it ain’t suppose to be, like primer pockets, a very bad habit to get into. Do not even ask. I must have a half dozen cans and pump spray bottles sitting, that I tried and abandoned. I just use pads, have 3, never put dirty brass, any kind of crud, on a pad. Work the lube into the pad surface with a finger tip. On the RCBS, leave one end to in/out lube the neck, push the mouth down and turn, not through the pad. If you get a plug, stick it with a dental pick on an angle, lift it out, put back in the hole in the pad.

Take the pad out of the holder and wash it off with real warm water and Dawn with a wet sponge or small square of Scotchbrite. Let dry for a day, re-apply lube, put back in case and get back to work. I can rightfully wear the colors of four clans, so I be thrifty.

You need to keep crud out of those dies!

Yep, you might want to try this:

I lube up a couple/3 of 30cal cleaning patches until they are sticky, put them in a plastic container with the cases, put the lid on and roll it around for a minute or 2 to lube the cases.

I don't use spray lubes because it can get inside the cases, just me though, not looking for a debate about it.
.
 
Imperial has been out of stock at Brownells so I have gone to Hornady wax in the shoe polish tin. Works great, will never go back to the pad method.
 
My lube pad was an ink pad, minus the ink. The pad can be removed from the metal holder. The cloth can then be removed & a new cloth installed, over the pad. Done.
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This is the lube pad that Dad gave me sometime back in the '70s. It's a genuine RCBS case lube pad (not an "ink pad") but the principle is exactly the same as what 243winxb said - when it gets dirty, pull it out of the metal holder and change the cloth covering the pad. As you can see, the cloth that's covering the pad now is sorely in need of changing (it's worn out and dirty) and I will get around to changing it one of these first days.;)

I have little shards of brass imbedded in my pad,
Do the shards of brass hurt the cases that get lubed and sized?
I sure don't know what those "shards of brass" that are "imbedded" in your pad are about though, 74man. Where did they come from? I mean, I know they obviously came from your brass cases. But why? I don't think I've ever seen any brass shards on my 45+ year-old case lube pad.o_O
 
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