How do you choose your powder?

Status
Not open for further replies.
B

BJung

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2021
Messages
730
Location
California
Here is a good topic. I've chosen my handgun powder in the past by the number of accuracy loads I found for my caliber and handgun model. For example, Bullseye is a popular .45acp and .38 Special powder. I've also chosen handgun and rifle powders by a deal I found. For example, I once bought close out powders at a sport shop that was closing. All ended up being AA powder so I'm now partial to AA powders. Rifle powder is different. Sometimes I'll conduct and internet search and look at the Ken Waters' petload book for a powder that will work. Other times I've gone the Hornady manual and looked at the powders listed. Among them, I've chosen the powder that created the highest MV and covered a long range for handgun or the middle powder in a group. Now, I've noticed the Lyman manual that lists chamber pressure and ask myself, "hey, I get a higher MV with a lower chamber pressure using Blue Dot for this handgun load". I've watched some Youtube videos but they don't go into depth. We all know that there are different burn rates but I think there is more in it than that such as how ball powder burns compared to stick. How do you look for and find the best powder for your loads?
 
BJung said:
How do you look for and find the best powder for your loads?
Click to expand...
It depends on the cartridge. For 45acp and 38spl Bullseye does very well as does Accurate #2.
For me the appropriate powder may depend on the firearm, was the 38spl made in 1917 or 2017?
More modern 38spl revolvers are rated for +P which opens up the powder selection.
There is a lot of ground to cover with your question, can you narrow it down?
Reloading manuals is where I get my first clue.
Most powder manufactures offer online reloading data, if you go to their web sites you will find good info.
With Alliant data you should reduce by 10% and work up, others will give a start and max. charge.
 
Last edited:
I usually check the chatter on what powders most reloaders are using for that particular cartridge. Then I do some accuracy tests and use the powder that is most accurate for the cartridge in my gun/guns.

That said, I can load most handgun cartridges with only 3 powders.
They are:
W231/HP-38
W540/HS-6
W296/H110

I can use W244 in the place of W231 or W572 in the place of HS-6 if necessary. I usually go to those 3 powers first but I do use a bunch of other powders for specialty loads like a replica for my .38 Special +P carry load, the 135gr Speer .38 Special +P GDHP SB ammo. (AA#5)

**EDIT**
From what I've read, in rifle cases a fill of 95% and above will deliver better accuracy with lower SD compared to cases with less of a fill.
 
Last edited:
Handgun - Ease of powder measure dispensing, case fill, and cleanliness.

Low Volume Rifle - Accuracy (weigh/trickle every charge).
High Volume Rifle - Ease of powder measure throwing + Accuracy.

In times of normal powder availability, there are many powders that satisfy the above.
 
Last edited:
When loading for a new gun I usually go to Ken Waters Pet Loads book and load five rounds of his 6 most accurate loads. After testing these off a bench rest I will load up a box each of the two most accurate and shoot those off a bench rest. That usually gives me my bullet and powder. I also sometimes add the Sierra manuals accuracy load if I have a chosen bullet weight into the trial mix.
 
I start a thread like “What’s the best powder for xyz caliber”, and then buy all the powders listed.
Seriously, depends on the intended use - that’s caliber, application and bullet specific. Once I figure that out, I’ll comb manuals and forums, then look for published data to start with. Then it’s hit or miss on obtaining the chosen one, or two, or…. Good luck.
 
I'm what could be called 'old-school' - in almost everything. I don't do much with the newest powders. That means I can usually use decades of others experience to get very close to what I want.

That, coupled with some shooting from my weapons generally gets me where I want to be.

Also, with the exception of 223 Rem I don't shoot a lot of full-power rifle loads. My need for slow rifle powders is limited; I have 3 pounds of IMR 4064 that I'm wondering how to use. I also have about 1.5 pounds of H414, I have no idea when I'll use it.
 
I only started reloading (pistol) during the current shortage. I seem to gravitate towards powders that offer the most flexibility. My order of importance is roughly listed below
  • Wide loading range
  • Good with magnum or regular primers
  • Good with cast and lead
  • Good enough in various case sizes
  • Preferably metering well and not so fine as to static cling to everything
 
My first concern is a propellant that will at least overflow the case when double charged. Then look at max velocity with minimal pressure. Take the three best and work up my loads from there. As of late the availability of a particular propellant may inter into the equation as the less I can use in a hand gun round the longer a pound will last. I will always tripple check load levels before seating a bullet though if I do this.
 
Read a lot, tested a lot. I like easy to see in the case, which means lightly colored or bulky or both if I can get it, I like powder that flows through measures well and cleans out of measures easily. I like powders that are not position sensitive in large handgun cases (Most are), I like low ES/SD numbers for my PRS rifle, but most of all I like accuracy, it comes first.
 
Last edited:
I base my powder selection on what performance I expect from the cartridge and platform it’s used in. Also included in that decision is the type of bullet and it’s intended use. Finally, after selecting the best performing powder/bullet combination in that platform, I verify on a chronograph and document in my reloading ledger.
 
BBarn said:
Handgun - Ease of powder measure dispensing, case fill, and cleanliness.

Low Volume Rifle - Accuracy (weigh/trickle every charge).
High Volume Rifle - Ease of powder measure throwing + Accuracy.

In times of normal powder availability, there are many powders that satisfy the above.
Click to expand...

This^^^. My high volume loads seem to be ball powders, accuracy and hunting seem to be stick powders. Usually look pretty hard at multiple load data sources and pick out a few of the best looking powders for what I want to do, and hopefully catch them in stock somewhere.
 
Forty years ago, I read alot and chose what the experts were using.

These days, for handgun, I have favorite loads for most of the the cartridges that I load and I keep those powders on hand. When adding a new-to-me cartridge, I generally use something that I have. During the Obama era shortages, I needed a powder for 9mm and my usual choice was no where to be found. I stumbled on True Blue after reading the label on the container. This is probably the last different handgun powder that I have added to my inventory.

Rifle is about the same, but the range of rifle cartridges and their powder needs is much broader than handgun. When I have added a new-to-me cartridge, I do some research and chose a powder that looks like it performs well in that cartridge. When a new powder is released I look at it and sometimes have tried it. CFE223 is one example and I use it in my 204 Ruger ammunition.

When times are normal, availability of a powder is always a consideration. I won't buy something that I may not be able to find later or may be difficult to find.
 
Last edited:
In rifle I look for the one giving the highest velocity. If I can't get what I'm looking for accuracy wise. I go to a faster burn rate until I find what I'm looking for.
In pistols I either go for smallest charge or highest velocity. It depends on what it's supposed to to do.
 
Generally through testing.

I have tried lots more than I pick as far as a final load.

For most pistol rounds! I look for are accuracy, how well it meters, availability, charge weight (I can get twice as many 5.0 grain loads from a pound of powder vs a 10.0 grain load, cutting my powder cost in half), how clean is the powder vs others. More or less in that order.
 
I look for powders that give a clean, complete burn. Lots of powders leave chunks behind in some applications, and I just dont like that. I also look for efficiency. Why load 14 grains when 9 will do. This is not a perfect trade as a small amount of velosity will be traded. I like powders for pistol to have flash suppressant. Fire balls may be fun, but apparently doesn't help my precision. Others may not have an astigmatism that is effected. Lastly just because I like a powder for x y or z reason doesn't mean my barrel also does. Sometimes I pick a powder near a powder I like to see if results improve.
 
I definitely have my favorite powders like Varget, TAC and H4895. However over the last couple of years I have bought powders outside of my comfort range when I have found them as long as they were designed for the calibers I shoot. Then I work up loads and give them a try. I have found powders I like and some that I just can't get to shoot well but has forced me to try powders I would not have under normal conditions.
 
I am pretty brand conscious, so I usually start with one of the powders I already use, or one by the same manufacturer. For me, that means I try Unique in pistol loads... it usually works pretty good, but I have expanded with other powders for specifics. Rifle powders... there are generic powders that do well in certain cartridges, and families of cartridges... like IMR4895 in .30 cals, H335 in 5.56mm/.223, IMR4198 or AA5744 that work very well in lower velocity cast rifle. Beyond that, I see what everyone else is loading, like I did for 6.5CM, which I knew nothing about. Scoping out what people were using on the forums led me to either of the 4350's, or IMR4451 as an alternate.
 
Bullseye, Unique, 231, 4895 and 3031. All powders that were used when I learned. I learned from Old Guys and that is what they used, the recipes were known and handed down. I have branched out some but always come back to them. Recently I have been experimenting with powders like Win 244 because that is what was available.

What I have learned is that some meter better than others and aide the reloader by filling cases better which adds to the safety and accuracy department. I have played more with bullets than powder and have come to the conclusion that they all have a sweet spot. Just a matter of finding it. I have also drawn conclusions about certain calibers and at what pressure range they start to show their stuff. Finding the sweet spot for the powder and bullets in hand is where I spent the most of my time.
 
Demi-human said:
I go by taste.:)
Click to expand...
I am waiting for the carbon , copper, lead cleaning, and total gun CLP versions that tastes and smells good!
Not only low flash but low noise.

I have not purchased any "new" type of powder . I personally do not see much difference between brands of similar powders Between all the powder makers there is no super secret formulas. Kinda like oil and gasoline, most is hype advertising
Yes they change some powders to be less polluting downstream,

As others mentioned years ago I researched a lot and bought based on what powder(s) had a wide range of load data and could be used in many different applications. I still use mostly HP 38 for handgun, 2400 for Magnum. I have others but see no real difference, I also prefer Hodgdon (Accurate) for their good online data base,

What I really would like to know is when are companies going to add the new powders to the burn rate charts??
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

B
  • Locked
How do you choose your new powder?
2
Replies
48
Views
1K
LiveLife
LiveLife
A
  • Locked
Little help with pressure
Replies
6
Views
518
rcmodel
R
L
  • Locked
221 Fireball with Unique powder?
Replies
2
Views
625
steve4102
steve4102
M
  • Locked
Western powders for .41 Magnum?
Replies
19
Views
2K
Charlie98
Charlie98
L
  • Locked
powder without published load?
Replies
19
Views
2K
Walkalong
Walkalong
Back
Top