This is why locks and doors are more important than guns

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The strike plates for my door locks are screwed in with long decking screws that go through into the 2x4s that make up the door framing.
Those two inch or so wood screws in the lock sets are a joke.


Glad to hear someone else understands that too, i have similar, I use the 6" zinc coated hex head deck screws on my door hinges and the striker plate.
 
1. The pesky Homeowners' Association (if you have one) might object to that.
2. The problem with bars over doors and windows (including security doors) is that, just as they make it harder for someone to get in, they also make it harder for you to get out. This could be critical, for instance, in case of a fire.
Not bars, a security door. It's a steel door that goes outside the wood door and you put a regular lockset with a deadbolt in it. Unlike window bars it's very easy to exit, you use a lockset with a locking handle for the door and a turning knob for the deadlock. (Here you anyway can't legally have a lock requiring a key on the inside.) It comes with its own frame and 4" bolts. It is perforated steel (so you can see out) with overlaid steel bars in attractive designs, nothing a HOA would object to. Almost every house in my development has them.
I have this one, but in "almond":
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-...2-in-x-81-in-Actual-35-in-x-81-75-in/50374776
I loved this one (cactus!), but didn't want to spend that much:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/TITAN-Tita...n-x-80-in-Actual-38-5-in-x-81-563-in/50254977
 
I agree, the film is more for small to medium objects, you toss a full blown old school solid iron crowbar at it and it will go thru it. No plastic is stopping that. the only reason a windshield works so well is the fact that they are sandwiched between the glass, and heat molded in. This alone make it so strong... which is what is lacking in the aplication of a single thin layer on one sode of the glass.
also 45CalPal:
Im an 25+ year ASE master auto mechanic, I have been a auto mechanic all my life and have had my fair share of time removing and working around broken windshields.

I have had to remove several cracked windshields with a hammer to get to the outer body/frame to weld/repair it.

So with this expierence and knowing the make-up of these lets me comment with a great deal of acuacy as to the effectiveness of these single ply thin layer add on films. They will work as advertised for say your kids accidental baseball mishap but it will in no way stop a full blown human sized amount of weight.

The thickness of these add-on's just is not enough to withstand this anount of heft at a single brute force motion. This is of course MO.

The actual strength will ultimatly be at the mercy of the quality of the aplication of said film.

The application process is pretty exacting. I don't know all the details but I remember they first clean the glass three times, then apply the film. Then after a few weeks for the film to cure (I think three, but I might be misremembering) they come back and apply the edging.

I don't think you watched the videos I linked in the other thread, you can see exactly that this is NOT like windshield glass. Windshield glass breaks into a zillion little pieces that immediately fall out, but do not have sharp edges. Glass with the security film may appear to break but the film itself is still there and EXTREMELY strong.

This is an actual surveillance video, note the large BG starts by throwing a good-sized rock at the protected glass, then kicks, pushes, etc for quite a while but can't even make a big enough hole for the smaller BG to enter through. Finally they give up and leave.
 
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I still stick with my original Op... these windows are commercial store front, which is a thicker glass and encased in a steel frame.
Also the commercial storefront glass comes in the same options availability as a car windshield as far as the laminated makeup of it.

The micro pieces of glass on the ground tells me that is exactly what that glass was. it was high quality laminated glass in a steel frame.

most all windows in a residential home these days are a thinner glass, non laminated and in a plastic frame. this comparison is of night and day.
 
I still stick with my original Op... these windows are commercial store front, which is a thicker glass and encased in a steel frame.
Also the commercial storefront glass comes in the same options availability as a car windshield as far as the laminated makeup of it.

The micro pieces of glass on the ground tells me that is exactly what that glass was. it was high quality laminated glass in a steel frame.

most all windows in a residential home these days are a thinner glass, non laminated and in a plastic frame. this comparison is of night and day.
My windows are all double-paned glass in metal frames. This is typical for developments in Arizona. The film was applied by the local 3M rep, after I bought the house but before I moved in.

A person who thinks the glass in his house won't be strong enough could certainly replace at least the glass in the sliding glass door with the commercial type, if that's not already what it is. Honestly I would think builders would use a heavier-duty glass in sliding glass doors than in windows though.

That said, note that in the video IT IS THE FILM THAT IS STOPPING THE LARGE BG, a lot of the glass falls off, but he is unable to kick or push his way through the film.
 
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just a note to add: All plastics degrade over time.
the harsher the enviroment the faster it will degrade. heat and UV rays are the worst for plastics
 
just a note to add: All plastics degrade over time.
the harsher the enviroment the faster it will degrade. heat and UV rays are the worst for plastics
I don't know the composition of the film, do you know for a fact that it is plastic? Just went looking for warranty information on the web, says 15 years. The thermal component, which I opted for because of our 115-degree summers, keeps out all UV rays.
 
I don't know the composition of the film, do you know for a fact that it is plastic? Just went looking for warranty information on the web, says 15 years. The thermal component, which I opted for because of our 115-degree summers, keeps out all UV rays.

Not 100% sure, but Im pretty posative it is a plastic.
Plastics are all polymers, all polymers are subject to UV and heat degredation. the more severe and intense the faster the degredation. this is just a fact of all plastics. However the thickness will be a huge factor. thicker = longer life and vice versa..
 
If you understand these matters better than I do, which given your background might well be the case, you could check on the 3M site to see if they divulge the composition and/or thickness of the different flavors of film they sell.
 
If you understand these matters better than I do, which given your background might well be the case, you could check on the 3M site to see if they divulge the composition and/or thickness of the different flavors of film they sell.


It says it's made from a polyester, which is in turn a polymer/plastic blend.

Do some research on polyester Vs. UV/heat degredation.
 
Here is the top page for "security film" on the 3M website.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/search/?Ntt=security+film
yeah same page I found. here is the answer from 3M
Capture.JPG


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyester#:~:text=Polyester is a category of,called polyethylene terephthalate (PET).&text=Natural polyesters and a few,most synthetic polyesters are not.

In short... it is a plastic blend
 
I would call the 3m rep and act as if you were a resident in say the midwest and ask what the warranty is for that aplication, I doubt it will be as strong in 6 years as it was on install day. if he says the same warranty time frame, its a sales gimmik, and it will not last that long in your climate.
 
I am quite impressed by this 3M film. My sense is a robber who finds himself hauling-off on a window with a baseball bat for 2-3 minutes is going to move to easier opportunities elsewhere in the same neighborhood.
 
I would call the 3m rep and act as if you were a resident in say the midwest and ask what the warranty is for that aplication, I doubt it will be as strong in 6 years as it was on install day. if he says the same warranty time frame, its a sales gimmik, and it will not last that long in your climate.
I live in Arizona and already have the film installed. I wouldn't want someone to waste my time, so I equally am not interested to waste the time of a midwest 3M rep who has real work to do. I'm not worried about this, 3M is a gigantic and very well run company known for quality products, I don't believe they give false warranties.
 
It is great if you live in hurricane, tornado, hail or earthquake zones, too.

Yes it would be.
But, I bought a new house near the ocean and it came with hurricane (impact) windows. :):D


If someone(s) was successful at forced entry they will find a GSD losing is mind, a Bullmastiff backing him up and a homeowner armed with a "decent" gun.
 
Can't say I'm familiar with the films mentioned but I do know a thing or two about sliding glass patio doors and I can understand when folks believe a dowel laid in the track on the resident's side of the door will prevent anyone outside from opening it..... But anyone that has worked with those doors (or learned how to defeat them from experienced burglars...) will know that generous sized suction cups or the right pry bar will allow anyone to quietly lift that door right out of its 1/2" track without making a sound.... I needed a patio door slide cleaned (as they get older and build up debris, hair, etc.) I watched a pair of workers, who just happened to be eastern european immigrants... quickly remove my door and set it aside as they worked to sort it out.... It was an eye opener...

On the other side of the coin down here in hurricane land new construction is required to have impact resistant glass (believe the standard is it must survive a two by four at one hundred miles an hour... ) and here we're talking double paned glass that's much heavier than a normal window in very strong metal frames well secured into the strongest part of your window's casement. Pretty sure I may have to upgrade my windows as so many have done if I ever want to sell the house we've been in since the late eighties as well. At any rate a good friend has done the upgrade and his patio door alone feel like something from a bank's security set-up -its that heavy and air tight.. Something to look into for folks who don't live in hurricane land as well...

When I was working the street all those years ago I'd advise any homeowner who asked about physical security issues to do a bit of thinking about the actual threat they face and plan their security on that basis... I'd have a lot different set of suggestions for an apartment with young female roommates than I would for someone with a collection of firearms in the structure as an example... The great majority of break-ins happen when no one is home (unless our bad guy makes a mistake and enters where he (or she) thinks no one's home...) and your only threat is to your property and peace of mind... The very small (thank heavens) number of entries into an occupied structure are terribly dangerous since those deals involve someone planning on attacking, robbing, raping, or killing anyone they encounter... That's the nightmare scenario that will keep you up at night.

Lastly, I'd make a point of taking a hard look at friends or family under your roof and it any of them are involved in questionable activities....have them living somewhere else... The risk to yourself or your family from a bad character's friends or competitors goes way way up if they're living under your roof... No matter how close they are to you and your family - even if it's one of your own kids... Not something most of us want to think about...

Down here in south Florida many homes have serious steel barred exterior window and door security. I used to advise anyone looking to buy a house to avoid any neighborhoods where every house sports barred windows since it means they've had, at least in the past, serious burglary problems. For anyone that thinks bars on your windows is a good idea you might want to ask what would you do in case of a fire? Lastly I've actually participated in raids on armored houses years ago. We simply did a discrete survey of the property (in movies they'd say we "cased the joint") then made our plans on how to defeat the barred exterior door or window. Usually we'd use a tow truck (but any vehicle will do...) equipped with heavy chains and big hooks... At the go signal the operator would very quickly back into position, place the hooks on the bars - then snatch the entire setup right out of the walls it was mounted on. The entire operation takes less than a minute... Those bars were never installed to prevent them being snatched...

Glad I'm long out of that world...
 
generous sized suction cups or the right pry bar will allow anyone to quietly lift that door right out of its 1/2" track without making a sound
This is very disturbing. Every article I've ever seen on securing your home says to put a dowel in the track. What is the solution to prevent someone outside from doing what you post?
 
how to defeat the barred exterior door or window. Usually we'd use a tow truck (but any vehicle will do...) equipped with heavy chains and big hooks... At the go signal the operator would very quickly back into position, place the hooks on the bars - then snatch the entire setup right out of the walls it was mounted on. The entire operation takes less than a minute... Those bars were never installed to prevent them being snatched...
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Window bars and I guess if people just put something like window bars over their door, would definitely be vulnerable to such an attempt. A security door should not be. You have to make sure the decorative steel bars are attached along their length to the perforated steel.
On some of the lesser ones this is not the case. For example, Home Depot sells a door that looks just like mine but is from a different manufacturer, and the reviews of that one said the bars are not attached; the bars on mine are bolted at intervals and there is nowhere to fit a hook in.

It all depends on what threat you are worried about. IAC, only an actual selected target is likely to be hit by thieves who come with a truck and chains. A person known to have valuable art, jewelry, or guns has to worry about being an actual selected target. I personally have no such, and my banged-up 15-year-old car in the driveway doesn't contribute to an appearance of affluence.
 
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