Preferred AR15 Armorer's Wrench and Must Have Tools/References for AR15 Build
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Chuck R.
Member
If there's one thing I don't mind spending money on it's quality tools, and most used for building ARs have other uses. Everyone that tinkers with guns should have a decent punch set and a decent vice is (or used to be) a standard household item. I've also got some pretty specialized tools and headspace gauges because they just make things simpler and faster. I've now, over time, assembled a pretty decent AR15 armorers tool kit, which resides in a cheap plastic tool box. When travelling to matches or classes it goes with me.
In my kit I have:
Magpul armorers wrench (as others pointed out, 90% of the time the FF handguard will come or need a proprietary wrench)
AR15 Bolt vice (comes in handy for quickly dissembling bolts to check headspace)
Magpul Bev block
Windham AR15 vice block
Go/No-Go gauges in .223 and .300AAC also a Colt Field gauge ( I've used them to actually return 1 bolt that was out of spec)
Standard Punch sets
Roll pin punch sets and starter set
Wheeler bolt catch punches (flat on 1 side)
Hammer with interchangeable heads; steel, brass, and nylon
Trigger guard pin press (little crow gun works)
Upper Receiver lapping tool (Brownells)
Torque Wrench
Old school handguard removal tool
Clevis pin (For installing front take down pins)
Small brake/cylinder hone. Used to fit gas blocks on some barrels, the barrel makers leave the gas journal oversized. I just hone the gas block to fit.
Gas block dimpling jigs (.625 and .725)
Geissele FCG salve pins (they come with their triggers, other makers don't supply them, make it easier to install mil triggers too)
Wilton Vice (rotating)
A lot of the above has multiple uses, not just for AR15s. Also a lot of it really isn't "needed".
In my kit I have:
Magpul armorers wrench (as others pointed out, 90% of the time the FF handguard will come or need a proprietary wrench)
AR15 Bolt vice (comes in handy for quickly dissembling bolts to check headspace)
Magpul Bev block
Windham AR15 vice block
Go/No-Go gauges in .223 and .300AAC also a Colt Field gauge ( I've used them to actually return 1 bolt that was out of spec)
Standard Punch sets
Roll pin punch sets and starter set
Wheeler bolt catch punches (flat on 1 side)
Hammer with interchangeable heads; steel, brass, and nylon
Trigger guard pin press (little crow gun works)
Upper Receiver lapping tool (Brownells)
Torque Wrench
Old school handguard removal tool
Clevis pin (For installing front take down pins)
Small brake/cylinder hone. Used to fit gas blocks on some barrels, the barrel makers leave the gas journal oversized. I just hone the gas block to fit.
Gas block dimpling jigs (.625 and .725)
Geissele FCG salve pins (they come with their triggers, other makers don't supply them, make it easier to install mil triggers too)
Wilton Vice (rotating)
A lot of the above has multiple uses, not just for AR15s. Also a lot of it really isn't "needed".
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redcon1
member
I may build it upper first and then lower later. I really want to build it all right now but there's a learning curve here and I may be getting ahead of it and "rushing to failure". So I really want a nice varminter upper in .223 Wylde and so that's where I'll start. I'll have to settle on the upper and then figure out which vice block I need. Aero M4E1 it's looking like.
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redcon1
member
Absolutely. With the way things are going, tools seem like a pretty reasonable investment and I have been throwing quite a bit of money at them lately This whole project may be a really good excuse to buy tools. But increasing one's knowledge is always useful too. They can't take knowledge away from you. It seems like I need to get a couple of vice blocks now.
Chuck R.
Member
My last 4 builds have all been all Aero M4E1s, I really like them and have never had an issue. I've built 2 dedicated AR15 varmint rifles:
One with a White Oak Armament 18" fluted SPR barrel 1-8".223 Wylde chamber with matched bolt. Vortex PST 4-16X44. Sub MOA with just about everything, very accurate AR15 barrel.
One with a Larue Tactical PredatAR 16" barrel, 1-8" .223 Wylde chamber, on a lightweight calling rifle with a 3-9X40 Leupold MK3HD. Sub MOA combination with 55 Nosler BTs.
Both have Geissele SSA-E triggers.
Chuck R.
Member
I was doing ok with one block, right up until I started messing with AR15 PCCs...then the block or action rod that goes into the barrel extension doesn't cut it.
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redcon1
member
I'm not there yet. Maybe I'll go there but I really just want to build a precision varminter style AR15 along the lines of the Bushmaster Varminter but better. It seems like all the rage is shorter barrels these days and that's cool but I still like a nice full sized rifle. Or even oversized a little bit. I don't need another rifle for a MOUT site. I need something that shoots bugholes at 100 yards.
herrwalther
Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2013
- Messages
- 8,127
This tool key ring has paid for itself about 3 times over in saved detents or springs.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007370226?pid=919925
The Wheeler AR multi tool is my go to. It has both a barrel and castle nut wrench as well as a few other important ones. The 1/2" cutout really helps when attaching a breaker bar or torque wrench.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007367921?pid=773840
Nearly any block set will work in holding your upper/lower while building. I have built two using the Wheeler block designed for the Tipton vice. On my first one, I didn't even have the vice, but bolted it to my bench instead. Worked just fine and even better after I got the Tipton. There are better ones, but this is a good starter.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007361846?pid=354847
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007370226?pid=919925
The Wheeler AR multi tool is my go to. It has both a barrel and castle nut wrench as well as a few other important ones. The 1/2" cutout really helps when attaching a breaker bar or torque wrench.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007367921?pid=773840
Nearly any block set will work in holding your upper/lower while building. I have built two using the Wheeler block designed for the Tipton vice. On my first one, I didn't even have the vice, but bolted it to my bench instead. Worked just fine and even better after I got the Tipton. There are better ones, but this is a good starter.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007361846?pid=354847
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redcon1
member
I just put it all in my cart. I have a torque wrench coming but it's 3/8". I should have bought a 1/2". It's a learning curve. A 1/2" torque wrench now in my other cart.
mrawesome22-250
Member
I did a varmint build for my 2nd build. Full A2 style stock lower with a 20" White Oak varmint bull barrel upper. It was the .936" at the gas block bull barrel and let me tell you what that sucker was just absurdly heavy. Amazing shooter for sure, but the weight just killed it for me. I sold it off and still haven't built another varmint upper yet.
Anyway, unless you are gonna use it strictly as a bench gun I'd stay away from those damn bull barrels.
Anyway, unless you are gonna use it strictly as a bench gun I'd stay away from those damn bull barrels.
Chuck R.
Member
That's why I went with the 18" fluted SPR profile. It's just about right for a varmint rifle that will be carried. .725 at the gas block.
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redcon1
member
That's pretty much all I anticipate using it for is to shoot off of a bench. I have an AR10T with a 24" barrel and, yeah, it's a heavy son of a gun especially when you set it down and pick up your 16" AR15 without an optic.
I don't think I want .936" at the gas block though. I was thinking .750" but I haven't gotten that far yet. I'm still ordering torque wrenches, returning torque wrenches, figuring out which crowfeet wrenches I want.
Everyone here has given me good advice and I do appreciate that btw. I have made a few orders today based on the recommendations. I'm still really stoked about this but I'm realizing I'm gonna be spending some $$$ here on this project but I'm willing to do that to obtain this new skill. I think it's an excellent skill to have. That's how I'm justifying it. And I don't expect I'll be up to speed overnight either. there's quite a bit to this.
mrawesome22-250
Member
After doing a few it becomes a piece of cake. Then the never ending need to change or try out new parts will kick in...
It truly never ends. I just installed a BCM buffer tube this morning. Nothing was wrong with the old tube but I just wanted to try a BCM tube, well, just because I guess.
It truly never ends. I just installed a BCM buffer tube this morning. Nothing was wrong with the old tube but I just wanted to try a BCM tube, well, just because I guess.
twarr1
Member
Get these and save yourself untold grief.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ll-pin-holders-set-sku080685000-781-3016.aspx
They’re hollow on the end and hold the roll pin while you start it. Once started, use a regular roll pin punch to finish.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...d-drive-pin-8-piece-punch-set-prod132828.aspx
For removing roll pins, these are nice
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/roll-pin-
I looked these links up on Brownells. Lots of other companies make them as well. I use Starrett.
I agree with others; armorers wrenches aren’t reallly good at anything.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ll-pin-holders-set-sku080685000-781-3016.aspx
They’re hollow on the end and hold the roll pin while you start it. Once started, use a regular roll pin punch to finish.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...d-drive-pin-8-piece-punch-set-prod132828.aspx
For removing roll pins, these are nice
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/roll-pin-
I looked these links up on Brownells. Lots of other companies make them as well. I use Starrett.
I agree with others; armorers wrenches aren’t reallly good at anything.
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BBBBill
Member
I have and use the Midwest Industries reaction rod. It is the best of several that I've tried. You can barrel a receiver without a reaction rod by using a clamshell clamp for the upper, but the reaction rod does a much better job and nearly completely eliminates the risk to the upper when using the clamshell. For general use any quality upper will work fine. If you are trying for more accuracy you might consider a thermal fit upper (slightly smaller bore at the front end) vs a standard upper. You could also go with a larger barrel extension (BAT Machine makes a good one). You can also shim the fit to remove play. Some folks poo poo the benefits, but I and others with much better creds than me have found them to be real. I have been using BCM uppers for all my builds, but there are other good ones out there. Nothing at all wrong with an Aero upper. They have really good stuff and I use a bunch of it, but their uppers are looser fit to the barrel than I prefer.
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redcon1
member
You have just given me some homework. I like it. Thanks.
mrawesome22-250
Member
An often overlooked item is the receiver feed ramp to barrel extension feed ramp relationship. The barrel extension ramps should never have any overhang over the receiver ramps. Sometimes a little work with a round file is needed to make this a smooth transition.
I've also found that squaring the receiver face is almost always needed it's just that some are worse than others. An Anderson I bought was so bad that you could see with the naked eye that the barrel was canted to the left.
I've also found that squaring the receiver face is almost always needed it's just that some are worse than others. An Anderson I bought was so bad that you could see with the naked eye that the barrel was canted to the left.
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redcon1
member
My aero upper is for a 300 blackout that I'm assembling for two completed receivers. I don't expect it to be a tack driver and that's OK. We'll see what it does and go from there. I just wanted an excuse to convert some of my 5.56 brass to 300 blackout I think. The AR15 of my dreams that I have been researching for hours upon hours will be a bench gun primarily and I expect it to be accurate and I expect to be able to repeat the build just like I was baking chocolate chip cookies later on.
You've both given me a lot to think about and I appreciate it. I think I'm about ready to buy a grey ghost matched upper lower receiver. Looks like it "may" require thermofitment due to "tightened tolerances". that's fine. It seems doable and worth the effort as you have suggested Bill. I watched the JP enterprises video on thermofitment and I don't see why I couldn't do that. And I will probably end up squaring it Mr. Awesome but I just want to get it and see it first. It definitely makes sense as far as overall barrel receiver concentricity goes and the tool isn't too expensive. I have ordered so many tools this week though, I about have to wait for another paycheck, especially if I'm ordering these receivers and barrels this week. I'm looking at this Ballistic Advantage barrel right now with the Superlative Arms bleed off AGB .
Armorer 101
Member
Folks have covered most everything, I will add a few items,
A two allen screw locking gas block, holds up tight to the barrel port
A pair of locking forceps,
A utility knife blade is good for holding the plunger and spring in place to insert the lower’s hinge pin,
White Lithium grease for the barrel nut anti-cease and new carrier bering surfaces and bolt cam pin, to wear on.
A set of bushing washers, in case you need to set the barrel nut back a touch to get it tight and aligned.
The handy thing for setting your barrel nut gas tube hole lineup to the receiver gas tube hole is a decimal drill bit near the same size as the gas tube’s end size, use the drill bit to set your barrel nut, when it drops, past a 1/2 hole hand tight, with the wrench, you are there. Say my tube end is .179, I use a .180 bit.
I use a clam shell full support AR-15 upper receiver vice block that I made out of a carry handle block.
By the way, the Armalite AR-10 vice block is different than the DPMS design vice block. In case you want to work on your AR-10T, like a new barrel.
This is my Armalite AR-10 being fitted with the 260 barrel on the left. TAC-30 finished on the right.
A two allen screw locking gas block, holds up tight to the barrel port
A pair of locking forceps,
A utility knife blade is good for holding the plunger and spring in place to insert the lower’s hinge pin,
White Lithium grease for the barrel nut anti-cease and new carrier bering surfaces and bolt cam pin, to wear on.
A set of bushing washers, in case you need to set the barrel nut back a touch to get it tight and aligned.
The handy thing for setting your barrel nut gas tube hole lineup to the receiver gas tube hole is a decimal drill bit near the same size as the gas tube’s end size, use the drill bit to set your barrel nut, when it drops, past a 1/2 hole hand tight, with the wrench, you are there. Say my tube end is .179, I use a .180 bit.
I use a clam shell full support AR-15 upper receiver vice block that I made out of a carry handle block.
By the way, the Armalite AR-10 vice block is different than the DPMS design vice block. In case you want to work on your AR-10T, like a new barrel.
This is my Armalite AR-10 being fitted with the 260 barrel on the left. TAC-30 finished on the right.
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redcon1
member
That's good info. Thank you for that. I'm going to build my work bench tomorrow or rather repurpose an old heavy duty 64" x 18" bedroom vanity with a new 1 1/2" thick top that I can mount my bench vice to. I have in the past week or so accumulated 4 different torque wrenches (two 1/4" wrenches a 3/8" wrench and a 1/2" wrench), a set of 3/8" crow foot wrenches, a Botach reaction rod, a wheeler Armorer wrench, a 3 prong muzzle device wrench, a set of Clymer Go-No Go gauges for .223, a Wheeler Lower Receiver Magazine Well Vise Block, Wheeler Pivot Pin Detent and Roll Pin Installation Tool. And presently, in my Brownell's shopping cart, I have a firing pin protrusion kit, a sinclair bolt vice, a 1/16" roll pin punch and a Wheeler vice block that supposedly has some special ability to line up the gas tube when you tighten the barrel nut (oh, and a sweet 20" Shilen barrel and bolt that I'm still thinking about).It has been a pricey couple of weeks considering I also bought a Aero 300 Blackout upper and stag pistol lower. The upper should be here any minute.
Oh, and I got married and bought my long time GF a $3,000 ring. What a week. There is no emoticon to describe it.
I think once I build the bench tomorrow, it's time to build a rifle for better or worse though. I'm done buying tools and farting around. I'm building this thing.
That is a sweet looking rifle btw. I like the handguards and they're pretty much exactly what I'm looking to put on my rifle(s). Eventually I definitely want to move up to 7.62 rifles but for now, I'm focusing on the good old .223/5.56. It surprises me that I don't have a 5.56 tack driver. I've just always been more interested in 7.62 but that's about to change.
Oh, and I got married and bought my long time GF a $3,000 ring. What a week. There is no emoticon to describe it.
I think once I build the bench tomorrow, it's time to build a rifle for better or worse though. I'm done buying tools and farting around. I'm building this thing.
Not lost on us.
I think once I build the bench tomorrow, it's time to build a rifle for better or worse though. I'm done buying tools and farting around. I'm building this thing.
Not lost on us.
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redcon1
member
deadeye dick
Member
I like to use Locktite ( blue) on all threaded parts for added security.
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