De-Horning a Gun?

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Riomouse911---If I took a dremel to a Glock, I would have to round off the trigger guard to eliminate the hook.
I don’t use a finger-forward grip, so if the hook on the front of the trigger guard was removed I wouldn’t miss it. But altering the shape a lot looks like it would change how these guns fit in my Safariland kydex holsters, so I leave it be. :)

Stay safe.
 
bannockburn said:
Nasty Canasta

A person could get lost in that deep polished blue!

Indeedy-doo ! Loved it.

I had to deburr the disconnector on a brand new 1911. Was double-tapping so fast I didn't realize it was doing it at first, until I got a slide lock after only four "shots" and only four holes on the paper.

Some of those marks on the range ceiling aren't from sheer stupidity alone. <shame> <looks down at toes><yes, Mommy>

Terry, 230RN
 
That's what's so great about stainless guns. No finish to worry about, file, sand, polish and repeat as necessary.
Yes. The loading port of my 590 is quite sharp, probably sharp enough that with a clumsy enough or rushed hard loading, topping off would result in a nasty cut.

Trying to figure the best way to address it, if it was a steel reciever I'd just knock the edge down, Dremel, polish and add some touch up blue. Wondering if maybe I could gently round the sharp edge off and hit it with a sharpie or krylon. Idk. I'll figure something out, but I don't want it to look stupid. I don't mind a blemished gun or scratches, especially on a gun like the 590, I just want to avoid fugging it up.....
 
Messing with sharp edges is anathema for a collector. It's actually a hallmark of a poor refinish job.

If you want to destroy the value of your gun, go ahead.
 
[Bill] Jordan also liked to remove part of the trigger guard - not the whole front of it, like a Fitz, but rather the right side of the front half, to allow better access to the trigger. I thought about that one long and hard and ultimately decided against it - for liability reasons if no other.
According to some sources including Fitzgerald's admissions in his book, Fitz had been a boxer in younger days and had broken his fingers enough that getting his trigger finger inside the trigger guard was not a quick process. A full cut away trigger guard was also susceptible to bending if struck against a solid surface (interesting tidbit: in the latter portion of the 19th Century up to the early portions of the 20th Century, a handgun could be used as a cudgel if the situation did not call for lethal force). Hence the removal of one side (strong side) of the front of the trigger guard was used.
However, this only applied to those with long fingers. I have short enough fingers to not have problems getting my trigger finger into position. So any trimming of the trigger guard would be a fashion statement.

Liability? Questionable in my mind. However, unless one has rather long or deformed fingers, there is no need.
 
My first gun had checkering on the hammer that was so sharp it would actually cut my thumb when I cocked the hammer. I tamed it with an ignition file. Just rounded the points slightly. I also slightly modified the grip on that gun to eliminate a hot point that was hitting my thumb knuckle just right and causing pain.

The gun I'm wearing now has had the edge of the triggerguard rounded slightly to eliminate a ridge that was riding against my knuckle and causing discomfort. It has also had the front of the magwell modified very slightly to eliminate a pinch point.

My smallest carry gun sees bellyband usage and nothing will let you know about the sharp points on a gun like carrying it in a bellyband. I had to round one side of the rear sight, one side of the hammer spur and one side of the abbreviated "beaver tail". Another modification on this gun was to round the back bottom corners of the slide. They were pointed and the inside edges were quite sharp and due to the small size of the gun, they could cut the web of the hand.

One thing I find interesting is that all of the modifications are surprisingly subtle. I wasn't really trying to hide them; I just took off as much material as was necessary to achieve the desired goal. But when I was done, it turned out that the amount of material removed was quite small. I could hand any of those guns to someone to examine, and unless they were specifically looking for the modifications, I doubt they would even notice them.
 
1911 guys call this "de-horning".
Huh. I thought it was old school revolver guys that made up this term. Regardless, I dehorned an 1858 Remington so I could play Curly Bill. Smoothed the trigger guard edges and hammer. Smoothed the hammers on Ruger .22 single actions. Can't imagine dealing with sharp edges anymore.

I used needle files that I've owned for 50 years, and 800 grit paper because it's what I had on the shelf, finishing up with Flitz polish. I'd like to hear what some of you more sophisticated metal workers used.
 
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