GP100 Spring Change

JDeere · Feb 6, 2022

I picked up a new 5" GP100 in .357 a couple of months ago. The stock trigger pull in DA and SA was just ok compared to my 686 and 586. I decided to change the springs and see what happens. The first thing off is I like to never got the assembly out to change the trigger spring. I had to tap the plunger with a punch to get it loose and then pry the assembly loose from the frame. I cleaned that mess up before reinserting the group. Relax, no damage was done.

I put the Wilson 10# Hammer and trigger springs in and achieved a very nice improvement. Off to the range I go to check this combo out. I took my reloads in .38 and .357 using Win SP primers in the .38. I used CCI SPM primers and Fed SR primers in my .357 loads. All of my reloads ignited and ran flawlessly. Several months ago I picked up some Creedmor .357 HPs that comes in the 20 round boxes. I tried to run a cylinder through and I got no ignition with very light strikes. I stuck those light strike rounds in my 686 and fired them off with no issues.

I suppose if I want to run the Creedmor ammo I would jump to the 12# spring. I did not compare but I'm gonna guess that those Creedmor rounds have the primer set deeper? I will see if I can compare and see a difference. I'll keep running my reloads and see where it goes. I really like the combo and it improves the trigger pulls nicely. I don't want to get into polishing and shims so I will leave her be and play with springs.

AZAndy · Feb 6, 2022

If you can get your hands on some Federal primers, I bet that would take care of the problem. I have a couple of S&W revolvers I set up for competition with the lightest mainsprings I could find, and they work fine with Federals but not, say, CCI.

I pulled the trigger assembly out of an SP-101 once to see if anything in there looked like it needed attention, and my experience was similar to yours-- it was quite a chore. Probably not a big deal to somebody who's done it a few times, but as a first experience, it made me not want to do it again.

ericuda · Feb 6, 2022

I did that too and went back to factory springs. Not worth it to have a light strike no bang. I did shim hammer as I had them. It'll smooth out over time.

Hartkopf · Feb 6, 2022

I did a polish job (no shims) and left the stock springs in my wife’s GP100. It’s now smooth as glass and ignites any primer. JDeere, when you get time or feel like doing a trigger job, the GP100 can have a great trigger.

UncleEd · Feb 6, 2022

JDeere,

Yes, go to the 12# hammer spring
to get more oomph in igniting the
Creedmores.

As long as your trigger returns with
authority, no sluggishness or mush,
then you are OK with the 10#

Yes, first time in getting gun apart
takes a good whack with the punch.

dannyd · Feb 6, 2022

The first GP100's didn't have the hole in the frame to push the plunger in, so pushing in the plunger was a real effort. Start with polish, shims then springs. I work on 5 Gp100's and 2 sp101's.

Riomouse911 · Feb 7, 2022

With the Ruger GP set up, Wolff sends a #10 and #12 hammer spring and a #10 return spring in their kits. (Wolff says Ruger stock spring weights are #14 hammer, #12 rebound I believe.)

I went with the #12 hammer and #10 return in both my GP’s, a .44 Spl. and a new-to-me .357. These springs, and some light polishing of the return spring channel and trigger surfaces, have made trigger pulls in these two guns really nice with (so far) 100 pct reliability.

Good luck finding that perfect balance! :thumbup:

RugRev · Feb 7, 2022

There was once a tool sold by Brownells and later a similar one made GP100man that used leverage to free the trigger assembly. Here is a link to a picture of these:

https://www.northwestfirearms.com/media/ruger-popper.2607/full?d=1554238284

I have seen it said one can also be fashioned out of a paint can opener. Once the trigger assembly is removed a little judicious polishing where the parts fit together can make future takedowns and assemblies much easier as Ruger must pound the assembly in with a rubber mallet (??).

Dan-O · Feb 7, 2022

RugRev said:
There was once a tool sold by Brownells and later a similar one made GP100man that used leverage to free the trigger assembly. Here is a link to a picture of these:

https://www.northwestfirearms.com/media/ruger-popper.2607/full?d=1554238284

I have seen it said one can also be fashioned out of a paint can opener. Once the trigger assembly is removed a little judicious polishing where the parts fit together can make future takedowns and assemblies much easier as Ruger must pound the assembly in with a rubber mallet (??).

You're supposed to cock the hammer, slide in the gold pin that comes with it, or toothpick, paperclip etc. This takes the tension off the spring, and you should be able to pull tge assembly out.

Then use a fork to depress the new spring once it’s on the strut, and insert pin. Now the housing should be able to be slid in place. Release hammer and remove pin

per the manual

Dan-O · Feb 7, 2022

I go with lightest trigger rebound and I believe 11# hammer spring, or whichever is second lightest. Wolff of course

RugRev · Feb 7, 2022

"You're supposed to cock the hammer, slide in the gold pin that comes with it, or toothpick, paperclip etc. This takes the tension off the spring, and you should be able to pull tge assembly out."

That is true but one must still insert a tool through the hole in the frame to push in the trigger plunger that sits at the back of the trigger return spring. On many new Rugers trying to remove the trigger assembly can be a bit trying due to tight fitting.

"
I go with lightest trigger rebound and I believe 11# hammer spring, or whichever is second lightest. Wolff of course"

The Wolff springs come in 8, 10, 11, 12 lb plus heavier ones. The 11 must be ordered separately from the spring kit.

SDGlock23 · Feb 7, 2022

Ive had good luck with the Wolff "shooters pak" spring kit, their trigger return spring and 10lb hammer spring, for me, ignite well and give a trigger that's as good as S&W performance center.

https://www.gunsprings.com/RUGER/GP-100/cID3/mID52/dID233

Dan-O · Feb 7, 2022

RugRev said:
"You're supposed to cock the hammer, slide in the gold pin that comes with it, or toothpick, paperclip etc. This takes the tension off the spring, and you should be able to pull tge assembly out."

That is true but one must still insert a tool through the hole in the frame to push in the trigger plunger that sits at the back of the trigger return spring. On many new Rugers trying to remove the trigger assembly can be a bit trying due to tight fitting.

"
I go with lightest trigger rebound and I believe 11# hammer spring, or whichever is second lightest. Wolff of course"

The Wolff springs come in 8, 10, 11, 12 lb plus heavier ones. The 11 must be ordered separately from the spring kit.

Oh. I misread the post. I apologize. Don’t remember ever having too many issues getting trigger assembly out either….

Rock185 · Feb 8, 2022

FWIW, I tend to be very conservative about installing lighter hammer and trigger springs in revolvers, Rugers or otherwise. Over a good many years I experimented with lighter trigger and hammer springs. I've gone back to springs in my Ruger and S&W revolvers that reset the triggers with authority, and will ignite the primers of any factory ammunition I'm ever likely to encounter. For me, the #1 criteria is that the gun must go bang with any non-defective ammo I put in the gun.
I certainly understand that strictly for fun/range use, many shooters might prefer to utilize the lightest springs, coupled with softer primers. Interesting discussion in any case. To each his own...

GP100 Spring Change

JDeere

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AZAndy

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ericuda

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Hartkopf

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UncleEd

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dannyd

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Riomouse911

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RugRev

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Dan-O

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Dan-O

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RugRev

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SDGlock23

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Dan-O

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Rock185

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