Hey everyone, I am in the process of modifying a frankengun AR (Aero lower and upper with magpul stock and BCM BCG and charging handle). I have the A2 FSP because I like the look and would like to keep it. I also have an old GI clamshell style hand guard that I want to replace with an Mlok one. I believe the correct length for this is 7.25 inches, right? What would be a good option for this type of handguard? I have heard of one called Centurion, and of course there is the magpul one, but what else is there? I’m fairly new to the AR scene and have mostly shot pistols and shotguns up until this point. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Hand guard length
- Thread starter 1911Bird
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Big44mag
Member
Pretty sure the old styled GI handguards are approx 7.5", and considered "carbine" length. There might be a little variance between manufacturers and some may claim 7.25", but that may or may not include the type / size of the barrel locking nut or lips that lock into the handguard cap.
As for brands that feature the M-Lok option and carbine length, there are lots to choose from, and IALoder is correct that Daniel Defense and MI will work, as well as Troy, Geissele, Strike Ind, VLTOR, BCM, Yankee Hill and others. Price, weight, styles and finishes are personal preference,
As for brands that feature the M-Lok option and carbine length, there are lots to choose from, and IALoder is correct that Daniel Defense and MI will work, as well as Troy, Geissele, Strike Ind, VLTOR, BCM, Yankee Hill and others. Price, weight, styles and finishes are personal preference,
Mac Attack
Member
The Centurion Arms C4 MLOK rail that goes around the FSB is a good one. You need the carbine length rail.
https://centurionarms.com/c4-m-lok-rail-carbine-cut/
https://centurionarms.com/c4-m-lok-rail-carbine-cut/
BigBlue 94
Member
If it os a carbine, then yes, somewhere around 7 inches for a free float tube. Or are you looking for 2-piece drop in units that mount just like the originals? Either way, carbine length is what you need. Midwest industries or Yankee Hill are my favorites.
Don’t you have to remove the barrel nut, delta ring, FSB, and other hardware to install that on an existing GI setup?
gotboostvr
Member
Yes, you do.
It's not exactly simple, but Isn't too complicated in most cases for a competent home gunsmith to accomplish. A professional gunsmith shouldn't charge an arm and a leg either if you don't feel comfortable. Usually $100 or less I've seen.
I keep thinking about changing mine to a regular gas block and free float hand guard. I just wonder if it’s worth the trouble. I worry about how hard it would be the remove the FSB if it’s pinned. Then I wonder about the bare metal where the pin was.
BigBlue 94
Member
Not hard at all. Most FSB pins are tapered, so tap from the smaller side.
You can then reinstall the FSB as long as you get a standard (vs extended) free float tube. On the one barrel ive removed a FSB from, the barrel was raw everywhere under it. YMMV.
Demi-human
maybe likes firearms a little bit…
But you must put a gas block back on or the rifle won’t work, this will cover the untreated area.
And if some bare steel shows, throw some paint on it. It will be under the handguard after that anyway.
Or shoot some Fedral American Eagle, the soot from a box of that will blacken three inches around the gas block.
gotboostvr
Member
The "easy button" for that, is to shave the FSB down, cold blue it and install the rail over the whole shebang.
Big44mag
Member
I'm not sure that's the easier route, the A1/A2 sight should be held in place by 2 taper pins that should be pretty easy to tap out. Most tap from left to right, but some are reversed, as BigBlue 94 said "tap from the smaller side". Regardless, once the pins are removed, the gas block should slide off (possibly with a little persuasion) and then you can replace with a gas block of choice. If you want to reuse the gas tube, I would recommend tapping the gas tube pin while it the block is still attached to the barrel for leverage, and don't forget to remove the flash hider or brake prior to attempting to remove the gas block.
Seems to be a lot less work than cutting, filing, and bluing.
imac98374
Member
What are you hoping to gain by making the change? Better ergonomics? Accuracy? Mounting options? (light?, aiming device?, both?). Just aesthetics?
I know it would need a gas block. I doubt it would cover the bare metal.But you must put a gas block back on or the rifle won’t work, this will cover the untreated area.
And if some bare steel shows, throw some paint on it. It will be under the handguard after that anyway.
Or shoot some Fedral American Eagle, the soot from a box of that will blacken three inches around the gas block.
I’ve considered this. It’s probably no easier that putting on a gas block.
All of the above
Demi-human
maybe likes firearms a little bit…
It is infinitely easier. Unless you don’t have a cut-off grinder, or dremel, or sawsall, or hack saw, or file, or belt sander. Then it might be more difficult.
But then you can just slide it on and tighten the handguard screws. Easy. I cut off my first one as a neophyte that had no real tools.
If you go this route, be sure the handguard is compatible with a standard barrel nut, otherwise that will have to be changed too.
The only thing wrong with the Centurion is the exorbitant price really. It addresses your situation perfectly otherwise.
Just in case…
Have you looked at the Sampson handguards? They have an EX model that goes around the FSP for a longer grip and a nice rounded profile. But that requires removable and reinstallation of the FSP. And it isn’t MLok.
I am partial to Aero and have mostly enhanced ones. I have one ARStoner branded handguard from MidwayUSA that was inexpensive and is very lightweight, with Mlok slots. Makes my 22AR so svelt.
But this requires cutting the post or changing the block.
Then there are the proprietary barrel nuts or handguards like the LCR5 Carbon that require removing the barrel nut to install a receiver plate between the receiver and barrel nut. The handguard tightens on to it, sandwiching the barrel nut.
It isn’t as hard as it sounds once you get started. And besides, you have us!
Demi-human
maybe likes firearms a little bit…
This will require a torque wrench and a barrel extension tool. Like these.
To reinstall the barrel and nut.
It’s funny, the handguard is not where all the work is.
greyling22
Member
Demi-human
maybe likes firearms a little bit…
I guess I misunderstood the question then, sorry about that.
Enjoy your new handguard.
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