1863 Springfield Build
- Thread starter Springfeld
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Ugly Sauce
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That wood looks like it has some nice grain to it. Looks like a nice project, should turn out nice. If I tried that, it would turn out only "kind of nice". !! Looks like the lock is going to be a good fit, that's where I would kind of mess things up. I'll sure be curious as to what it weighs in at when done.
What exactly is a "Whitacre" barrel?
What exactly is a "Whitacre" barrel?
AlexanderA
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Whitacre's Machine Shop. http://www.whitacresmachineshop.com/ He has his shop on a farm outside Winchester, VA. Usually sets up at the N-SSA Nationals in Winchester.
Top quality repro barrels. When I was building my hybrid M1842 musket (mix of original and repro parts), I got the barrel from him. Went out there and picked it up in person. He made sure it was exactly to original specs, including the bayonet lug on the bottom.
Springfeld
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I do plan to weight it once complete, but will take some time to completely finish. I work around 50 hours, some weeks. I’ve watched a few videos and PATIENCE is something I’ve got to keep in my. Measure twice and cut once type thinking. I don’t have all the parts but only a few left but plenty to start working on it.
Hovey Smith has some videos on YouTube where he repairs an old Brunswick rifle that are good references to working a stock.
USPS lost my first barrel I ordered from Whitacre. So, someone has a nice 1863 Springfield Barrel out there. Whitacres makes barrels to fit to original specifications. They have a removable breech plug and progressive depth rifling as the originals did. I’m no expert, but that’s were a lot of the reproductions gain so much more weight than originals. The reproduction barrels and stocks are more bigger.
Ugly Sauce
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I suspect the extra weight is in the barrel. I don't believe the stock on my Armi-Sport is that much heavier, or could be reduced by a whole pound with heavy sanding. The barrel however does look very heavy, especially at the breech. Probably good for mega-loads if one was into that.
Unfortunately that someone who has your barrel has no idea what a jewel it is. Probably tossed it.
AlexanderA
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That's correct, although the Armi Sport stock is also dimensionally larger than other repros.
Ugly Sauce
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Right, that is true, the stock is larger, but again, don't think that reducing it to a more correct size could take a full pound off it. ? There must be at least a one pound difference between my Armi-Sport and an original, but I'm not sure what an original weighs. I've heard different weights for the originals. My Armi weighs a whopping 10.8 pounds. ! I'm guessing an original is close to 9 pounds. ?
Springfeld
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BAD UPDATE I received the stock from The Rifle Shoppe and started working on it. Got the lock plate set and then drilled the first hole. I went to blow out the chips and noticed air shot out the ram rod channel. I placed the ram rod in and noticed I could not see light through the hole. So I put the bolt in and pushed the ram rod and to my horror it bumped the lock plate bolt. I’ve sent an email to see if I can send it back and hopefully get a replacement.
The saddest thing is everything else was very good on the stock. I’ve had a lot of trouble with this and hence why I should have just bought and Armi Sport 1842. If The Rifle Shoppe won’t replace the stock, I may just sell all the parts and buy and 1842.
Ugly Sauce
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A ram-rod channel is very close to the lock bolts, on various guns. Is the ram-rod preventing the bolt from going through the stock? If it is just "bumping" or touching the bolt, but the bolt is not preventing the ram rod from seating, or "going all the way home", that might not be a problem. ?
Anyhow, that lock sure fits nice. !!
Anyhow, that lock sure fits nice. !!
Springfeld
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If I put the lock bolt in the ram rod won’t go all the way in. If you put the ram rod in then the bolt won’t go in. The ram rod channel is cut in the same position of the lock bolt. The lock plate is positioned in the correct location. Sadly I do not believe I can work around it.
AlexanderA
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The remedy would be to fill the ramrod hole with a dowel (glue it in), and then drill a new ramrod hole in the correct position.
Needless to say, this is not easy. You would silver-solder the proper drill bit to the end of a long rod (at least as long as the ramrod, and the same diameter) and carefully guide it down the channel. The trick is to keep the drill straight and correctly aimed.
As I recall, the '42 stock I got from Dunlap Woodcrafts had the lock bolt holes as well as the ramrod hole predrilled, so it avoided this sort of problem.
Needless to say, this is not easy. You would silver-solder the proper drill bit to the end of a long rod (at least as long as the ramrod, and the same diameter) and carefully guide it down the channel. The trick is to keep the drill straight and correctly aimed.
As I recall, the '42 stock I got from Dunlap Woodcrafts had the lock bolt holes as well as the ramrod hole predrilled, so it avoided this sort of problem.
Springfeld
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That would be doable, if I had the correct tools to attempt this . I did send an email to Dunlap about getting a stock from them. I probably going to go that route after all the effort I’ve put into this build so far.
When I received the stock there was a larger square chunk of wood left on the nose. I’m assuming due to it being placed in the machine to cut out the design. I believe that’s were the error started. It appears they had to drill the channel but left the chunk on there and it prevented the drill bit from laying more flush with the rifle and ended up being at an angle.
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Ugly Sauce
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That would be a defective stock for sure. They should/must replace it.
Springfeld said:
When I received the stock there was a larger square chunk of wood left on the nose. I’m assuming due to it being placed in the machine to cut out the design. I believe that’s were the error started. It appears they had to drill the channel but left the chunk on there and it prevented the drill bit from laying more flush with the rifle and ended up being at an angle.[/QUOTE]
Stock makers often leave a small square section on the fore end so it is easier to clamp the stock in a vise.
After all parts are inlet and you no longer need to use the vise the extra wood is easy to remove.
SC45-70
When I received the stock there was a larger square chunk of wood left on the nose. I’m assuming due to it being placed in the machine to cut out the design. I believe that’s were the error started. It appears they had to drill the channel but left the chunk on there and it prevented the drill bit from laying more flush with the rifle and ended up being at an angle.[/QUOTE]
Stock makers often leave a small square section on the fore end so it is easier to clamp the stock in a vise.
After all parts are inlet and you no longer need to use the vise the extra wood is easy to remove.
SC45-70
The ram rod hole was not drilled straight.
That can be fixed.
I've fixed bad ram rod holes by machining a slot in the barrel cannel with a ball end mill (the size of the ram rod).
Machine the slot down to the proper depth making sure the lock bolt will go in with the ram rod in place.
Next use a larger regular end mill to cut a wider slot in the barrel channel to a depth just shy of the ram rod (usually less than 3/8 inch deep).
(Example; I cut the RR slot with a 1/4 inch ball end mill to depth and cut the wide slot 1/2 inch with a regular end mill about 1/4 to 5/16 inch deep).
Cut a flat piece of wood the size and thickness of the large slot and epoxy it in place (make sure to remove the Ram rad).
Re drill the lock bolt hole.
You may have to run a long drill bit in the ram rod hole if the rod is a tight fit, but if done correctly you won't have to.
With the barrel in place this repair will never be seen.
SC45-70
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Springfeld
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Does anyone know of anyone who has an (Repro for Original) 1855/61/63 3 Band Rifle stock, figured I’d ask.
Ugly Sauce
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Nope.
AlexanderA
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Dunlap Woodcrafts is the go-to place for this, but they're expensive.
That is a very good repair and one I have used to save a few stocks I misdrilled before I got a proper bit to drill deep holes in wood. I have also just used a router (or chisel) instead of the drill to make the ramrod hole. You don’t need to inlay the Dutchman but it does make a neater job.
Kevin
Springfeld
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I just called and was told they don't have any 1861 Springfield Stocks. Then gentleman stated that he had some wood air drying and would possibly be ready around Spring. I don't believe that means they don't have any others, it may just pertain to 1861 Springfield's.
Springfeld
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Springfeld
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Pic
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Springfeld
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Update on the Build.
I've got the Stock more filled (Rasp) and sanded down. I also stained the stock, once almost done I'll put some linseed oil on it. Some parts are still not fitted due to still having to file and sand them to fit properly. I plan on getting a Dunlap Stock in the future and eventually replace the stock due to the ram rod channel. In the mean time, I plan to work with the Stock as it will give me some practice with wood working. I went with 1863 Type 1 band springs as I figured no need to inlet the stock for the springs if I plan to replace it later. I ordered a Walnut Rod and will attempt to glue it in the channel and redrill it, hopefully by that time I'll have another stock in case if I'm unable to drill it correctly or if anything goes wrong.
I've got the Stock more filled (Rasp) and sanded down. I also stained the stock, once almost done I'll put some linseed oil on it. Some parts are still not fitted due to still having to file and sand them to fit properly. I plan on getting a Dunlap Stock in the future and eventually replace the stock due to the ram rod channel. In the mean time, I plan to work with the Stock as it will give me some practice with wood working. I went with 1863 Type 1 band springs as I figured no need to inlet the stock for the springs if I plan to replace it later. I ordered a Walnut Rod and will attempt to glue it in the channel and redrill it, hopefully by that time I'll have another stock in case if I'm unable to drill it correctly or if anything goes wrong.
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