Large Magnum Pistol Primers in 45 acp?

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i just came into possession of 100 federal large magnum pistol match primers. my question is simple: can i use these in 45 acp?
I got a brick of them too. I loaded them in 10mm and planning to load them in .45. Have not shot it yet, wish me and you luck
 
I’ve used CCI magnums in place of standard with no problems. My normal load of 5.0 wsf I was using, I reduced 5% and I had no issues. I didn’t chrony them but the recoil and ejection was the same and they shoot well.
 
As long as your load isn’t running at max you should be fine.

Winchester Large pistol primers say for standard or magnum so I assume they probably run hotter like a standard magnum primer.
 
Agreed. I’ve shot plenty of magnum primers in regular loads, both pistol and rifle. The only issue I have had personally is if I load a magnum powder (H110, W296 in my case) with non magnum primer. .44 magnum out of a Marlin 1894S is all over the place without magnum primer.
 
i have Titegroup and Silhouette. i've got 230 gr berry's TMJ bullets. lo and behold, Lyman's 49th doesn't have the info on these. can someone do me the kindness of pointing me to the right online information?
 
i have Titegroup and Silhouette. i've got 230 gr berry's TMJ bullets. lo and behold, Lyman's 49th doesn't have the info on these. can someone do me the kindness of pointing me to the right online information?
You talking about the bullets or the powder? If you have data for 230 gr FMJ or LRN use either and you’ll be fine.
 
Open your Lyman manual to the 45 auto section. Look at the cast bullets. Lyman bullet number 452374. It’s the classic round nose 225 grain cast bullet. It duplicates factory ball with a cast bullet.

Thank you,Bazoo. It designates CCI primers, would it be the same with Winchester small pistol primers? Or would the magnum primers be better?
 
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I have used small primer 45 brass as substitution for large primered without any issue. I’ve researched it and what I’ve found is the people that’s tested it more extensively have shown it to be safe as far as pressure (meaning, using small primer brass isn’t going to up the pressure with an already proven large primer developed load). Generally no change to a better change in consistency of ignition.

For the mag primers, If you only have a pad of mag primers to use up, after you have a load developed with your main primers, then reduce your powder charge 5% and substitute your mag primers. Or save them till you have enough to be worth developing a specific load for.

Here is how I develop a 45 auto load.
The Lyman 49th says

45 auto

452374 bullet @ 1.272 OAL (make sure to test the length, that it fits your gun. If you have to reduce oal by .005 that’s fine, but if you have to reduce it .020 you may need to reduce the starting charge slightly)

4.5 titegroup to 5.1

I’d load 5 each with
4.5
4.6
4.7
4.8

Then I’d shoot them on paper, for groups. Each at a different target. See how they group. Maybe the 4.8 will group great but the 4.5 won’t. Provided they all feel normal as to recoil, and ejection is normal, as in, not excessively farther than normal and to the same direction as normal, I’d load the rest with the most accurate powder charge.

But regardless of accuracy, if that 4.8 recoils harder than normal, or throws the empties 15 feet instead of 6 (whatever normal for your gun is), then I would use a lower powder charge. Recoil of the gun and ejection is really your only clue as to pressure (unless you have a chronograph) on a low pressure round like 45 automatic.

If the 4.7 feels and looks good, load 25 or so and test farther. If that goes good, load the rest.

Would I load 4.9, 5.0, 5.1? Maybe... if the lighter charges seemed under powered. But probably won’t be any need. Likely the 4.6-4.8 will feel and perform like factory ammo. Would the 5.1 be over pressure? Maybe, probably not, but it might be right at the limit. You can’t tell, and neither could I. But it’s better to have a little safety bumper zone since you're substituting bullets and primers and you’re loading techniques and components are different than the testers at Lyman had.

The goal isn’t to load at the pressure limit for your cartridge, but make accurate and reliable ammo under the limit.
 
I have used small primer 45 brass as substitution for large primered without any issue. I’ve researched it and what I’ve found is the people that’s tested it more extensively have shown it to be safe as far as pressure (meaning, using small primer brass isn’t going to up the pressure with an already proven large primer developed load). Generally no change to a better change in consistency of ignition.

For the mag primers, If you only have a pad of mag primers to use up, after you have a load developed with your main primers, then reduce your powder charge 5% and substitute your mag primers. Or save them till you have enough to be worth developing a specific load for.

Here is how I develop a 45 auto load.
The Lyman 49th says

45 auto

452374 bullet @ 1.272 OAL (make sure to test the length, that it fits your gun. If you have to reduce oal by .005 that’s fine, but if you have to reduce it .020 you may need to reduce the starting charge slightly)

4.5 titegroup to 5.1

I’d load 5 each with
4.5
4.6
4.7
4.8

Then I’d shoot them on paper, for groups. Each at a different target. See how they group. Maybe the 4.8 will group great but the 4.5 won’t. Provided they all feel normal as to recoil, and ejection is normal, as in, not excessively farther than normal and to the same direction as normal, I’d load the rest with the most accurate powder charge.

But regardless of accuracy, if that 4.8 recoils harder than normal, or throws the empties 15 feet instead of 6 (whatever normal for your gun is), then I would use a lower powder charge. Recoil of the gun and ejection is really your only clue as to pressure (unless you have a chronograph) on a low pressure round like 45 automatic.

If the 4.7 feels and looks good, load 25 or so and test farther. If that goes good, load the rest.

Would I load 4.9, 5.0, 5.1? Maybe... if the lighter charges seemed under powered. But probably won’t be any need. Likely the 4.6-4.8 will feel and perform like factory ammo. Would the 5.1 be over pressure? Maybe, probably not, but it might be right at the limit. You can’t tell, and neither could I. But it’s better to have a little safety bumper zone since you're substituting bullets and primers and you’re loading techniques and components are different than the testers at Lyman had.

The goal isn’t to load at the pressure limit for your cartridge, but make accurate and reliable ammo under the limit.

Thank you much, very informative!
 
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