Master caster

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AJC1

AJC1

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What are the steps to becoming a master caster. I'm obviously in the basement when it comes to casting experience, but what are some milestones to work your way up???? I'm guessing pistol bullets are the bottom, what is the next step, hollowpoints. Mastering lead mixtures.... I don't even know what I don't known.
 
Just rambling here.....

Your first sentence/question needs a bit of thought,or redirection. One of the biggest hurdles for folks casting better is the realization that we all have different resources.

It's the 'ole "if you're a hammer,everything looks like a nail" mystery. Stretching your boundaries with tooling, may be a walk in the park,the next shop down the road(path). Understanding how to play to your strengths would be "a" step.

How good can you cook pancakes in a cast iron skillet? Can you do them over a campfire? For perfect pancakes(bullets) your pan has to be up to the task. Your abilities WRT managing the coals pulled out from the main fire,are uber important. But even then,some folks just can't make perfect pancakes? Ain't a whole lot different from casting bullets.

"Dropping" quality bullets from a decent mould is identifiable....doh,but where do we go from there? Just chunkin them in a lube sizer and get to blasting? Or is there some possible OP's you might be missing between the pan and the plate?

For us here(our shop),metrology is such a large part of our daily processes,that it's an easy carryover into really dialing in,dimensionally. Further.... we swage right much tubing/exhaust,building the equipment. Again,a VERY small step in application to move into bullet swaging. And then there's always the biggy..... you might be a poor shot? In which case,you really are making it tough trying to improve cast performance when the underlying problem is foundational shooting skills.

Enough rambling,good luck with your project.
 
Hooda Thunkit said:
10,000 hours.

That is the standard rule of thumb. To become truly proficient at anything requires at least 10,000 hours of practice.

At least, that's what I was always told.
Click to expand...
I cast for probably 10 hours total each year. I'll be a master in 1000 years! LOL.

I can cast my 9mm pistol molds quite well. I am having trouble with my 30 cal rifle bullets. Long/skinny rifle bullets take a different technique than short/fat pistol bullets.
There is always something to learn.
 
BWS said:
Just rambling here.....

Your first sentence/question needs a bit of thought,or redirection. One of the biggest hurdles for folks casting better is the realization that we all have different resources.

It's the 'ole "if you're a hammer,everything looks like a nail" mystery. Stretching your boundaries with tooling, may be a walk in the park,the next shop down the road(path). Understanding how to play to your strengths would be "a" step.

How good can you cook pancakes in a cast iron skillet? Can you do them over a campfire? For perfect pancakes(bullets) your pan has to be up to the task. Your abilities WRT managing the coals pulled out from the main fire,are uber important. But even then,some folks just can't make perfect pancakes? Ain't a whole lot different from casting bullets.

"Dropping" quality bullets from a decent mould is identifiable....doh,but where do we go from there? Just chunkin them in a lube sizer and get to blasting? Or is there some possible OP's you might be missing between the pan and the plate?

For us here(our shop),metrology is such a large part of our daily processes,that it's an easy carryover into really dialing in,dimensionally. Further.... we swage right much tubing/exhaust,building the equipment. Again,a VERY small step in application to move into bullet swaging. And then there's always the biggy..... you might be a poor shot? In which case,you really are making it tough trying to improve cast performance when the underlying problem is foundational shooting skills.

Enough rambling,good luck with your project.
Click to expand...
I was attempting to develop a goal or accomplishment based learning process. Not everything would nessairaly be harder or more difficult than the previous step or exercise but maybe the breadth of the experience is what matters.... hell I don't know.
 
troy fairweather said:
You spend enuff time doing something you'll become a master at it,
Click to expand...
On the contrary, one can be incredibly bad at something, and do it badly an entire lifetime. It’s just that the longer they do it, the more they ‘believe’ they’re an expert. Good instruction is important, hands-on experience is important, but by far the most important factor is a constant willingness to learn.
 
AJC1 said:
What are the steps to becoming a master caster. I'm obviously in the basement when it comes to casting experience, but what are some milestones to work your way up???? I'm guessing pistol bullets are the bottom, what is the next step, hollowpoints. Mastering lead mixtures.... I don't even know what I don't known.
Click to expand...
When I decided machining was something I wanted to pursue I first asked if it was something worth pursuing. An old Russian who worked at the shop decided to test my resolve by taking me under his tutelage and teaching me the basics. After a year I teaching others as a tooling machinist. After two, one of the guys I taught was a tooling machinist and his student was working the line. My former teacher declared I was then a master machinist. The first step is to want. The second step is to study. The third step is to teach. To become a master your students must teach a student to teach others to be better than themselves - and you.
 
GeoDudeFlorida said:
When I decided machining was something I wanted to pursue I first asked if it was something worth pursuing. An old Russian who worked at the shop decided to test my resolve by taking me under his tutelage and teaching me the basics. After a year I teaching others as a tooling machinist. After two, one of the guys I taught was a tooling machinist and his student was working the line. My former teacher declared I was then a master machinist. The first step is to want. The second step is to study. The third step is to teach. To become a master your students must teach a student to teach others to be better than themselves - and you.
Click to expand...

Well said Geo.
 
twarr1 said:
On the contrary, one can be incredibly bad at something, and do it badly an entire lifetime. It’s just that the longer they do it, the more they ‘believe’ they’re an expert. Good instruction is important, hands-on experience is important, but by far the most important factor is a constant willingness to learn.
Click to expand...
But they will do it the wrong way really good tho.
 
Hell, from where I'm standing (no casting experience what so ever) I though you were an expert!

Best of luck growing your skill and knowledge, AJC1. Your continuation to strive for the next step of proficiency will get you to Master lever of caster if you keep at it.
 
I started with a pot , ladle , single cavity mould and Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook in 1967 .
Still enjoy the hobby and still doing it . Let me pass on what I've learned to get going .

Start simple , with a 20 pound Lee Magnum Melter pot (smaller pots are a waste of time ) Lee's electric dipping pots are great value . Don't be swayed by bottom pour pots ... learn the basics with a simple open pot and a Lyman Casting Ladle . It has a long handle and can be made for right or left hand use .
Use double , triple or four cavity moulds to get going ...the aim is to cast perfect bullets not huge quantities of bullets with defects in them .

Steel & iron moulds take the most abuse , Lee 2-cavity moulds are the cheapest , require a little hand finishing and have their user quirks but many a bullet has dropped from a Lee mould .

Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook ...get one and READ it !!! The 4th Edition is out now , if you can find a copy of the 3 rd Edition buy it also . Those two books taught me and there is a wealth of info in there on lead and lead alloy . Wheel weights may be getting rare but ratio's of tin/lead alloy still work . All of Elmer Keiths casting for 44 special and 44 magnum was done with tin/lead alloy and plain based bullets .

Elmer Keith wrote a book in 1936 " Sixgun Cartridges & Loads" a hardcover reprint sells for $10.00 on Amazon ... I bought one just for the chapters on bullet casting and bullet alloy... worth every cent .

Read all the Information Chapters in the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbooks , 3rd edition and 4th edition , these are my go to books and will get a lot of info in your hands at one time .

Join up and become a member over at Cast Boolits , site is cast bullets only and newbee friendly .

Don't fall for the "you must have" electronic gadgets , PID's , computer controlled this , special that ...
No you don't ... a pot a ladle and a mould is all you need ... I tried bottom pour pots and hated them ..
made lots of half-fast bullets , ladle and pressure casting give me nice defect free bullets .

Good Luck and don't get discouraged by information overload ... Keep things simple at first .
Gary
 
Docendo Discimus said:
This is a great free resource. It is full of useful info. If you do a Google search it will pull up.
From Ingot to Target:
A Cast Bullet Guide for Handgunners ©
Click to expand...
I love that book, had many arguments "debates" on here based on the material. I definitely agree with his sentiment that gas checks in most pistol are not needed. He did make exception on the 30 carbine and 454 Cassell.
 
gwpercle said:
I started with a pot , ladle , single cavity mould and Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook in 1967 .
Still enjoy the hobby and still doing it . Let me pass on what I've learned to get going .

Start simple , with a 20 pound Lee Magnum Melter pot (smaller pots are a waste of time ) Lee's electric dipping pots are great value . Don't be swayed by bottom pour pots ... learn the basics with a simple open pot and a Lyman Casting Ladle . It has a long handle and can be made for right or left hand use .
Use double , triple or four cavity moulds to get going ...the aim is to cast perfect bullets not huge quantities of bullets with defects in them .

Steel & iron moulds take the most abuse , Lee 2-cavity moulds are the cheapest , require a little hand finishing and have their user quirks but many a bullet has dropped from a Lee mould .

Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook ...get one and READ it !!! The 4th Edition is out now , if you can find a copy of the 3 rd Edition buy it also . Those two books taught me and there is a wealth of info in there on lead and lead alloy . Wheel weights may be getting rare but ratio's of tin/lead alloy still work . All of Elmer Keiths casting for 44 special and 44 magnum was done with tin/lead alloy and plain based bullets .

Elmer Keith wrote a book in 1936 " Sixgun Cartridges & Loads" a hardcover reprint sells for $10.00 on Amazon ... I bought one just for the chapters on bullet casting and bullet alloy... worth every cent .

Read all the Information Chapters in the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbooks , 3rd edition and 4th edition , these are my go to books and will get a lot of info in your hands at one time .

Join up and become a member over at Cast Boolits , site is cast bullets only and newbee friendly .

Don't fall for the "you must have" electronic gadgets , PID's , computer controlled this , special that ...
No you don't ... a pot a ladle and a mould is all you need ... I tried bottom pour pots and hated them ..
made lots of half-fast bullets , ladle and pressure casting give me nice defect free bullets .

Good Luck and don't get discouraged by information overload ... Keep things simple at first .
Gary
Click to expand...
I am very interested in books from Keith but haven't read one yet... I do agree that Bhn 12 bullets are gooder in 357. I run straight rmr lead in 38 and 45.
 
Ohen Cepel said:
I am bummed, sad, and worried about lead wheel weights and printing blocks going away as a cheap/free source of lead changing the casting hobby a lot going forward.
Click to expand...

I find it much easier to recycle bullets than to go in search of other places lead may be.
 
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