What gunsmithing or repairs have you done today

There must have been a peep sight used and they basically cut the wood off to fit the sight, so I have to square the piece up more then what's shown, only stated on that I'm trying to remove little as possible. I have to see what scrapes of walnut I have when I glue the new wood on and shape it, may do the pointy part since its been broken and glued in the past. Very common break when the peep was cut in. I may add some small pins to make the wood harder to break or shear off. Hard part is finding wood to match.

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Next bit will be the harder part, I have to talk with the owner what's ok to do. The stock has to cracks in the tang from a improper fitting action/ bad bedding. The right side crack is larger, I can pry it up some but almost wish it were cracked more to get glue in. The left side is a small crack that probably won't show up in my terrible pictures. Plan is to drill holes from the inside under the wood line, fill with glue or epoxy would be better. This I hope will push glue into the cracks.

Problem is I'd like to try to keep the stocks original finish, but I don't think the crack will lay down flat, it's sprung up some. So I may have to glue it then sand it flat again, good glue should be strong enough.
The tang underneath was bad bedding to so I removed most. I had to take some wood off the tang where the bolt passes since it was chipped and uneven, I evened it up a bit, some of it may get bedded have to see with the action in.
I'm adding a brass tube to help everything out, I'll tape the tang at the back when bedding so it's not pressing on the wood like a log splitter.

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troy fairweather said:
think my dads is from like 1943 and was used hard, it really needs a new half nut and to be tightened up. I don't know enough to make a project out of it. Plus can't thread since the belt slips, guess they had a gear drive?
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You can tighten up the belt, but if the belt is stretched out, a new one should be installed.
Replacement half nuts are readily available, and not a hard job to replace. Hardest part of the job is cleaning all the "gunk" out of the gear box inside the apron.
1943?? You can "decode" the serial number on the end of the lathe bed. My lathe was made in the late 60's ....it's just a youngster as far as lathes go.....
 
55fairlane said:
You can tighten up the belt, but if the belt is stretched out, a new one should be installed.
Replacement half nuts are readily available, and not a hard job to replace. Hardest part of the job is cleaning all the "gunk" out of the gear box inside the apron.
1943?? You can "decode" the serial number on the end of the lathe bed. My lathe was made in the late 60's ....it's just a youngster as far as lathes go.....
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This one has a flat belt, think later maybe different in not sure. I made the belt for it and the lever to tighten probably needs to be adjusted. Other problem is I think the old motor is tired, it doesn't take much to slow it and I've had it stall before. The forward-neutral -reverse switch is handy when it happens. I swear one time the whole Chuck end lifted off the ways some when the cutter stuck so something maybe loose.

The lathe is at my dads some can't look at the plate, looked it up one time and I'm think it was 43. It's probably had a hard life, it came from Stewart airport back when it was army air corps I believe. Dad has a delta bandsaw and jointer and jigsaw from there to.

I'd like to try to update it some it's got the old tool holder so no quick change, it would be nice to have a live center to, I had a aluminum part last week weld the the center, I forgot about the lube slit. I'll see if I can find exactly what model it is, think 9-36 maybe.

Wish to maybe get a grizzly someday be nice to start with a new lathe, the South bend can bring pretty good money, but wouldn't know this one's value.
 
So looked it up, it's a 9A has the deluxe apron which I that all A's had. Dad has most everything for it, I was messing a little with the counter thing last use. Has 4-5 cutter holder things for it a short boring bare a parting tool. Never had the chuck off to check the spindle but think it's fine. The ways I think are ok,the have the flacky look and the set screw only turned a very tiny bit from one end of the ways to the other when I checked years ago.

If it were mine I'd fully strip it clean and go over it good. I believe there's a nice book one them I should maybe get someday. Have to weld the gear set cover door it was dropped in the move and broke. I may know a guy with a original stand I'd like to get, we have it on a wood lathe stand at the moment which works.

upload_2022-4-12_6-44-2.png here's what it looks like, next time I'm up I'll get some pictures and show what's with it. It would be nice to have a lathe thread in the gunsmithing area.
 
troy fairweather said:
This one has a flat belt, think later maybe different in not sure. I made the belt for it and the lever to tighten probably needs to be adjusted. Other problem is I think the old motor is tired, it doesn't take much to slow it and I've had it stall before. The forward-neutral -reverse switch is handy when it happens. I swear one time the whole Chuck end lifted off the ways some when the cutter stuck so something maybe loose.

The lathe is at my dads some can't look at the plate, looked it up one time and I'm think it was 43. It's probably had a hard life, it came from Stewart airport back when it was army air corps I believe. Dad has a delta bandsaw and jointer and jigsaw from there to.

I'd like to try to update it some it's got the old tool holder so no quick change, it would be nice to have a live center to, I had a aluminum part last week weld the the center, I forgot about the lube slit. I'll see if I can find exactly what model it is, think 9-36 maybe.

Wish to maybe get a grizzly someday be nice to start with a new lathe, the South bend can bring pretty good money, but wouldn't know this one's value.
Click to expand...

If the belt is to tight motors will not "come off " the start windings....but if the belt is loose and the motor still stalls out, crap can it and buy a nice ¾ HP or better yet mount a DC motor....did this on my mill, wow is it nice
 
troy fairweather said:
So looked it up, it's a 9A has the deluxe apron which I that all A's had. Dad has most everything for it, I was messing a little with the counter thing last use. Has 4-5 cutter holder things for it a short boring bare a parting tool. Never had the chuck off to check the spindle but think it's fine. The ways I think are ok,the have the flacky look and the set screw only turned a very tiny bit from one end of the ways to the other when I checked years ago.

If it were mine I'd fully strip it clean and go over it good. I believe there's a nice book one them I should maybe get someday. Have to weld the gear set cover door it was dropped in the move and broke. I may know a guy with a original stand I'd like to get, we have it on a wood lathe stand at the moment which works.

View attachment 1071951here's what it looks like, next time I'm up I'll get some pictures and show what's with it. It would be nice to have a lathe thread in the gunsmithing area.
Click to expand...
That flaky stuff is commonly called frosting or flaking...if your ways still show this it was used very little, keep the ways clean and well oiled!
The old "lantern " or rocker style tool post work well, but are cumbersome to use.......
If you go to knock the chuck off, DO NOT put the lathe in ba k gear and pound on the chuck, you will knock a tooth off the gears......put the chuck key in, give the hey a good walk with a heavy lead hammer...they spin right off
 
This should count towards gunsmithing......installing a proper bench vise. Been waiting for 5 months for Wilton Machinist 500S cast iron vise, only one in their line that is made in
the USA. 5" jaws @ 100 pounds! I kinda of wanted the 6" jaws but @ 160 pounds I passed. I have some old Wilton's that are steel made in the USA but they are 20 years old, currently all their steel vises are mfg. in China with pot metal and wear a metal "Wilton" badge. The cast iron Machinist line have "Wilton" cast into the molding, no external badges attached. Looking forward to snugging down the jaws on my next project. Pilot holes first to make sure the location holes would pass into the center of the Uline mobile bench steel frame supports.....they did, perfectly centered. Important to get that fixed jaw over the edge of the bench! Should also count as woodworking project credits.

End of the work day Motivation hat just for fun.

IMG_2728WILTON VISE 500S BENCH MOUNTING 04.13.22.jpg IMG_2714WILTON VISE 500S ARRIVES DAMAGED END CAP 04.12.22.jpg IMG_2730WILTON VISE 500S BENCH MOUNTING 04.13.22.jpg IMG_2733WILTON VISE 500S BENCH MOUNTING 04.13.22.jpg IMG_2734WILTON VISE 500S BENCH MOUNTING 04.13.22.jpg IMG_2736WILTON VISE 500S BENCH MOUNTING 04.13.22.jpg IMG_2738WILTON VISE 500S BENCH MOUNTING 04.13.22.jpg
 
a5werkes said:
This should count towards gunsmithing......installing a proper bench vise. Been waiting for 5 months for Wilton Machinist 500S cast iron vise, only one in their line that is made in
the USA. 5" jaws @ 100 pounds! I kinda of wanted the 6" jaws but @ 160 pounds I passed. I have some old Wilton's that are steel made in the USA but they are 20 years old, currently all their steel vises are mfg. in China with pot metal and wear a metal "Wilton" badge. The cast iron Machinist line have "Wilton" cast into the molding, no external badges attached. Looking forward to snugging down the jaws on my next project. Pilot holes first to make sure the location holes would pass into the center of the Uline mobile bench steel frame supports.....they did, perfectly centered. Important to get that fixed jaw over the edge of the bench! Should also count as woodworking project credits.

End of the work day Motivation hat just for fun.

View attachment 1072230 View attachment 1072231 View attachment 1072232 View attachment 1072234 View attachment 1072235 View attachment 1072236 View attachment 1072238
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Nice wilton wish I could find one I can afford. That Honda looks pretty clean to.
 
Changing out the hammer strut spring assembly and insertion of the assembly into the frame of classic P series Sig's is a 3-handed affair. I made a prototype compression plate spring system in conjunction with my vintage Palmgren angle vise; mending plates x2 fastened with small screws and dremel / drilled the relief holes for the strut and connecting bolts to the bench. Latest iteration was 1/4" aluminum bar stock with holes milled and then powder coated. Fabricated brass hammer strut assembly tool from a punch to install into the frame.

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The "new" style Sig main spring seats are polymer, no roll pins involved. Sig armorer tool has a small screwdriver bit tip that is supposed to be used for the
task of installation, however its sharp edges mar the part and the springs are so stiff the tip often slips out of the notch in the part. I fabricated a delrin tool to completely hold the part that is easier to use with no part blemishes. The screw keeps the angle of the part just right for insertion.
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Sanded the old grimey finish off a wooden stock and forearm from a CETME C for use on my CAI C308. The plastic forearm on my rifle uses an identical pin to the stock pins. The wood one used something smaller. I drilled the hole out and can use my larger pin. The plastic stock used a pair of machine screws to attach to the rear trunion thingy. I found a couple suitable wood screws, drilled pilot holes, and ran em in. Now ive got the first of many coats of Watch Danish oil on it.

These poor things certainly served in a military role. They are dinged up pretty darn good. I sanded them smooth but left much of the character with those dings and such. I paid a mere 35 bucks for em so money well spent.

I also replaced the destroyed buffer in my Marlin papoose and replaced, er added, the ejector rod knob on my Colt Shooting Master 38. Been missing for as long as ive owned it.
 
Took apart a Ruger 44 mag carbine. Cleaned it completely. Someone had given the inside a nice oil bath. Firing pin was sticking in the forward position. All de-oiled and bolt fixed. Reassembled. Time for a test firing. Not sure last time it was shot. Added a rail. Ordered a 4x scope.
 
BigBlue 94 said:
Sanded the old grimey finish off a wooden stock and forearm from a CETME C for use on my CAI C308. The plastic forearm on my rifle uses an identical pin to the stock pins. The wood one used something smaller. I drilled the hole out and can use my larger pin. The plastic stock used a pair of machine screws to attach to the rear trunion thingy. I found a couple suitable wood screws, drilled pilot holes, and ran em in. Now ive got the first of many coats of Watch Danish oil on it.

These poor things certainly served in a military role. They are dinged up pretty darn good. I sanded them smooth but left much of the character with those dings and such. I paid a mere 35 bucks for em so money well spent.

I also replaced the destroyed buffer in my Marlin papoose and replaced, er added, the ejector rod knob on my Colt Shooting Master 38. Been missing for as long as ive owned it.
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I had a few nice ones years ago, got a few that were nicer then most and they ran great. Sold them after the safe act happened. I was eyeing some of the kits with the receiver flat for $600 I think, I would not mind building one.
 
dh1633pm said:
Took apart a Ruger 44 mag carbine. Cleaned it completely. Someone had given the inside a nice oil bath. Firing pin was sticking in the forward position. All de-oiled and bolt fixed. Reassembled. Time for a test firing. Not sure last time it was shot. Added a rail. Ordered a 4x scope.
Click to expand...
The rugers 44 carbines are fun, dad had a few when I was a kid now I couldn't afford one lol.
 
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