Best primer pocket swager?

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Swaging on the Lee APP looks like it would be easy, but I haven't tried it yet

It’s easy enough that my 8yr old son has gotten the hang of it pretty quickly. Cases occasionally kinda hang and topple out of the station by getting snagged on the rim of the swage set up, but it’s serviceable - they’re dropping into a bucket from there for me either way, as long as they fall out of the way.
 
It’s easy enough that my 8yr old son has gotten the hang of it pretty quickly. Cases occasionally kinda hang and topple out of the station by getting snagged on the rim of the swage set up, but it’s serviceable - they’re dropping into a bucket from there for me either way, as long as they fall out of the way.
I will be picking one up sooner than later.
 
I have the Dillon super swager but there is no way to automate it.
Although I have no personal experience with it I think that the Lee APP with the swageing die is probably a better choice since a case feeder can be added.

You can make the Dillon 600 swagger auto eject by using a rubber band. There's a video on how to do it on you tube. Works great!
 
The RCBS primer pocket swager combo 2 works great for me. I don't understand why so many folks have issues with this set. However, it's SLOW, so I wouldn't use it to swage the primer pockets on a literal 5 gal bucket full of brass. :eek:
 
The RCBS primer pocket swager combo 2 works great for me. I don't understand why so many folks have issues with this set. However, it's SLOW, so I wouldn't use it to swage the primer pockets on a literal 5 gal bucket full of brass. :eek:
As stated earlier in the thread different headstamps have different web thicknesses.
If you have the die set up for a case with a shallow web thickness and you’re barreling along at full tilt and you get a case with a much thicker web you may bend the rod.
You may not bent the thicker rod but the smaller one for .223 can definitely bend.
 
As stated earlier in the thread different headstamps have different web thicknesses.
If you have the die set up for a case with a shallow web thickness and you’re barreling along at full tilt and you get a case with a much thicker web you may bend the rod.
You may not bent the thicker rod but the smaller one for .223 can definitely bend.
Not to go too off track, but since you (I think it was you) said something about damaging the web in a thread maybe 6 month ago, I’ve wondered if one of these hand operated swagers could damage the web to the point where the case is no longer safe to load? And if so, how could one tell?
 
It’s easy enough that my 8yr old son has gotten the hang of it pretty quickly. Cases occasionally kinda hang and topple out of the station by getting snagged on the rim of the swage set up, but it’s serviceable - they’re dropping into a bucket from there for me either way, as long as they fall out of the way.
That’s funny…I can imagine on a Monday morning the teacher asking the class of 8 year olds what they did over the weekend. Your Little Johnny says I helped my dad load ammunition. Here in the People’s Republic of Fairfax, that’d get you a visit from child protective services pronto.
 
That’s funny…I can imagine on a Monday morning the teacher asking the class of 8 year olds what they did over the weekend. Your Little Johnny says I helped my dad load ammunition. Here in the People’s Republic of Fairfax, that’d get you a visit from child protective services pronto.
That’s funny strange, not funny ha-ha. Down here in Dixie the principal would call you up asking if you wouldn’t mind teaching the rest of the kids so they stop all the chatter and get on with their lessons.
 
Not to go too off track, but since you (I think it was you) said something about damaging the web in a thread maybe 6 month ago, I’ve wondered if one of these hand operated swagers could damage the web to the point where the case is no longer safe to load? And if so, how could one tell?
I don’t believe it was me since I’ve never damaged a web to my knowledge.
 
That’s funny…I can imagine on a Monday morning the teacher asking the class of 8 year olds what they did over the weekend. Your Little Johnny says I helped my dad load ammunition. Here in the People’s Republic of Fairfax, that’d get you a visit from child protective services pronto.

Here, when my son happens to find a piece of empty 30-06 brass in the pocket of his jacket while he’s at recess in school, he sticks it in his jeans pocket so he can show it to his Principal at lunch, because he knows his Principal is a big .30-06 fan, because they’ve talked about hunting, fishing, and shooting sports together for a few years already…

No live ammo, no guns, no threatening language, no violence - the rest is still largely common sense. A high school teacher might ask to borrow a kid’s pocket knife during a school day if the need arose to cut some string or open a package…

I’ve wondered if one of these hand operated swagers could damage the web to the point where the case is no longer safe to load? And if so, how could one tell?

Setting up your decapping rod in your sizing or decapping die incorrectly CAN damage your case web. But it’s pretty difficult to set up the gear so incorrectly that this actually happens.

I do go back and forth about swaging versus reaming. In principle, I like that swaging retains material, but also in principle, I dislike that it puts so much force on the case to do such a minimally important operation. But then again, in principle, I’m largely against swaging or reaming at all in their broadest application, because it’s not a value-add step for case performance, it’s simply undoing something which shouldn’t have been done in the first place. I can appreciate uniforming for EXTREME control on ignition consistency, but just to recover Mil-crimped brass for reloading, I abhor it… so I try to not overthink it, and just devise the fastest, least labor intensive method to accomplish the task as feasible…
 
Harbor Freight drill press and solid carbide countersink -- cheap drill press but don't skimp on countersink. 40K + cases suggest it can be fast, cheap, and good enough.
 
Harbor Freight drill press and solid carbide countersink -- cheap drill press but don't skimp on countersink. 40K + cases suggest it can be fast, cheap, and good enough.
Using the Lee trimmer, this is how I trim brass, just chuck up the cutter and slide the brass up onto the dead stop arbor screwed into the cutter. Guess I could run a countersink cutter the same way.
 
I've had the Dillon and the RCBS. I may be the only guy alive that didn't care for the Dillon. Having to readjust it for different headstamps was a deal breaker for me. .

That is my only reason for not buying one...more fiddling with gizmos during my process. More than half my range brass has a military crimp that must be removed. If someone found an efficient method of doing this I would buy it, at any cost. The drill out tool bits from Hornady wear out too quickly. I just received another one yesterday.

Got a titanium one from Wilson but I need to use their table top lathe that is labor intensive. I heard there is an attachment that I could buy to put it into my drill. I should look around..
 
+1 on a pocket reamer and a electric drill ! You will be amazed how many you can do in and hour. I guess at least half of that 5 gallon bucket. Since I am guessing you already have the drill it is the cheapest way and the fastest. However there is not a lot of bragging rights that go along this route. One less tool to take up space on the shelf.
IMHO
No disservice to those who have the fancier rigs intended:thumbup:.
 
When it comes to brass prep and polishing, the more $$$$ you spend the better it has to work. For some things, I found that "cheap, quick, and dirty" can be fast. Manipulating brass cases one-handed improves my hand dexterity. A real PLUS when you have arthritis.
 
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