Open sights vs. visibility

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mikemyers

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With open sights, sometimes the front and rear sights and the "point of aim" blend together, so it's more difficult than usual to see the sight picture. For paper targets, one solution is to shoot "sub-6-o'clock" hold, so the sights are lined up against white paper, rather than a black bull. But this is useless when you're not shooting at a paper target, perhaps shooting at steel plates at varying distances....

Long ago, people shot at lots of things, some of them live, some not. I would imagine that back then, the open sights were lined up with the place you wanted the bullet hole to appear.

So, the purpose of this discussion thread, is how best to deal with the above scenario. If shooting sub-6-o'clock hold is not the best way to learn how to shoot well with open sights, what is the best way to learn how to use open sights regardless of what it is that's beyond them. Maybe painting the sights? Maybe a white outline around the rear sight?

(I never did figure this out, which is why I now think I prefer a red dot sight, but there must be a better answer....... For paper targets I have an answer that works, but I think it's more important to find a way to align the sights with the point of aim - somehow.)
 
One thing that is very common in handgun sights these days is for the front sight to be too thick for the notch in the rear sight. A larger rear notch helps two ways. Being able to easily see light on either side of the front sight helps line things up and keeps the front sight from "merging" with the rear sight. The larger notch also makes it a easier to find the front sight in a hurry.

Another option is to use a highly contrasting color for the front sight--perhaps a neon green or a bright orange/red--to make it distinct from the rear sight. You can also find fiber-optic front sights which will provide an "illuminated" effect by channeling the light to a "dot" on the back of the front sight.

I've seen people argue about whether handguns should be set up to have the bullet impact behind the front sight, right on top of the front sight, or above the front sight. Conveniently enough, I find that unless someone has really screwed up the sights on a handgun, it is always set for all three. At very close ranges, the bullet will impact behind the front sight, a little farther out, it will impact right on top the front sight, and at longer distances, it will typically be set up for a 6 O'Clock hold.

Of course, some of that can be modified by changing the sights, but the bottom line is that no matter how a gun is set up, the bullet MUST impact below the top of the front sight at very close ranges because the bore is below the top of the front sight. And because of the way gravity works the bullet will be rising during the initial phase of the trajectory, getting it up to the level of the top of the front sight at some point and taking it higher than the top of the front sight as the range stretches.
 
But this is useless when you're not shooting at a paper target,
I don't know about that "useless" thing.o_O My wife and I tipped over hundreds, if not thousands of steel silhouettes, at ranges from 50 meters to 200 meters back in our IHMSA days, and we both used 6 O'clock holds so that we could see the whole target we were shooting at.:thumbup:
Long ago, people shot at lots of things, some of them live, some not. I would imagine that back then, the open sights were lined up with the place you wanted the bullet hole to appear.
I don't know about that either. I'm pretty old (74), and Dad taught me to hold at 6 0'clock when I'm shooting handguns with open sights.;)
 
I was taught 6 o'clock hold from the beginning. Probably because I fired only rifles (and shotguns) in my early years. Even my first handguns were fired 6 o'clock hold, but distances were 20 yards or more.

It wasn't until I started shooting self defense oriented handguns that I was shown to let the front sight cover the center point of the target.

But, handgun sights are fuzzy to me now. I do add paint or a fiber optic to the front sight and usually leave the rear sight alone. The rear sights may have white "u"s or white dots on them from the factory, if they aren't just black.

Fiber optics are still fuzzy to me, unless on a really long barrel. The only sights that my eyes can see in focus are red dots or lasers. Blame middle age.
 
I prefer the sights to be "POA/POI", or as near to that as realistically possible. Its never going to be perfect though, nor will the 6 o'clock hold for that matter. Things are generally only "perfect" at one distance. Not a biggie, unless you're a perfection freak or a fixed position bullseye shooter. :)

I also prefer three dot night sights, or the front sight painted bright orange if I cant have the night sights. For me, the front sight is the key to shooting, and what I focus on the hardest. Having one that quickly catches your eye is a major plus.

I present the gun with the front sight above the rear sight as the gun comes up, and pick it up and place it on the target before the sights come up into alignment. If I want precision, I allow the rear sight to rock up into a row of three dots, or a traditional sight picture.

If Im shooting quickly, Ill often just use the front sight. All depends on the distances involved and how Im shooting. Just getting the front sight onto where you want the round to go is usually good enough, within reason. But again, it all depends on distance and how you are shooting.

A lot of times, I dont consciously use the sights at all, and just shoot over the top of the gun. Having a front sight that is easily seen, even when you're not looking at it goes a long way here, as you may not be looking at it, but your brain still sees it and can make things work.

I agree with John, most handguns these days have to fat a front sight, and either a thinner front, or wider rear notch is better and easier to shoot with, especially quickly. Problem there is if you like the dot sights, that usually makes the sight fatter to accomadate the vial.

The only way you're really going to figure out what works best for you is to shoot a lot, and in as many different ways as you can, so your brain can learn the different indexes and can do most of the work in the background while you focus on the target.

Starting with the fundamentals, and being able to place and call your shots in simple bullseye type shooting, is where you want to start, and then move on from there. If you're not hitting what you're looking at on-demand doing that, you're probably not going to have much luck going forward.
 
I understood the six o’clock hold to be best when you will know exactly what you will see when you shoot i.e. bullseye shooting.

For the context of not knowing what you will see, e.g. a torso, a shoulder, the top of a head, an ankle while shooting under a vehicle, etc., a center hold is best.

-Stan
 
Different sights on different guns. What’s the best?
 

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For me, at present, I am always standing in one spot, shooting at targets at 15, 25, and 50 yards, and sometime at steel plates at 50 yards. While I don't do it now, my range also has "silhouette matches" where we shoot at small metal plates that look like animals, at different distances.

For targets, with a black bull over white paper, the sub-6-o'clock hold works best, as I can clearly see the dark sights over the white paper. But this is useless if I want to shoot at the metal "animals", as I would have nothing to aim at. This means I ought to use center-hold, but then I'm back to dark sights over a dark bull when shooting at paper. That means maybe I should just learn how to use center-hold for everything. The question then comes down to how to make the sights the most visible when they are in front of a dark bull.

Two options are to use a carbide lamp to "smoke" the front sight, so it is the blackest I can make it. Or, I could paint it white or orange, leaving the rear sights black......

(My S&W Model 28 Highway Patrolman already has an orange front sight, so maybe I should settle on that for all my open sight guns.....)

(I realize that sub-6-o'clock is NOT what I would want for self defense - in that case, line up the sights over where I want the bullet to hit.)
 
(My S&W Model 28 Highway Patrolman already has an orange front sight, so maybe I should settle on that for all my open sight guns.....)

For me, those orange/red plastic front sight inserts on S&W guns disappear if I'm standing out in the sunlight. Blame the angle of the ramp and the plastic not being serrated causing sunlight to simply reflect off the sight and wash out the color.

Fiber optics on the other hand grab that sunlight and make use of it. Not really an easy swap on an old school S&W, though.

These are not a good focused pics of the front sight below on my Single Six, but these Williams Firesights make nice target sights. That pic is in indirect light and the fiber optics still brighten up considerably. Plus, those Firesights are small diameter pipes instead of fat diameter self defense type pipes. Very useful for target shooting, for people that could use the visual assistance.
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If you consistently shoot at the same color paper targets for practice, a paint marker or dab of Dollar Tree nail polish on the front sight in a color that contrasts your target should help. It'll still be visible for everything else too. Don't use orange if your targets are red and don't use green if you're using the shoot n see type.
 
Well, after all the above advice, and a lot more reading, I got out my old S&W Model 28, the gun I was using most of the time when I was active here, and Mr. Borland was giving me lots of advice. The front sight has an orange insert, which I cleaned off as best I could. My targets are mostly B-8, so no color at all.

I've been dry-firing for hours on end when I'm home. I used to aim at a black circle that appears the same size as "the black" on a B-8 target. Then I switched to shooting at a white wall, until the sights didn't change as I fired. Today, I turned on my TV, and dry-fired at various places on the screen. The only goal was to keep the sights aligned. My eyes eventually cooperated, and I got to where I thought I could do this fairly well. I'll find out next Tuesday how it works at the range, at 25 yards and a B-8 target. I can't practice at silhouette targets until we have a match, but I figure that should be fun.

I think I'll need to replace my rear sight blade with a blade that has the white outline. I'll see how things go tomorrow.

Guns I want to shoot with the open sights include my S&W revolvers, my Baer Premiere II, and a new Springfield SA-35 that I recently bought.


I love the photos of the "Single 6" posted up above - beautiful gun!!!!!!! I hope I don't find one for sale anytime soon, as it would probably follow me home...... :)
 
With open sights, sometimes the front and rear sights and the "point of aim" blend together, so it's more difficult than usual to see the sight picture. For paper targets, one solution is to shoot "sub-6-o'clock" hold, so the sights are lined up against white paper, rather than a black bull. But this is useless when you're not shooting at a paper target, perhaps shooting at steel plates at varying distances....

Long ago, people shot at lots of things, some of them live, some not. I would imagine that back then, the open sights were lined up with the place you wanted the bullet hole to appear.
With pistols I generally use open sights, I align my sights before I shoot and when It shoot I only look at the front sight and the target. I can't focused on all three. I have changed the front sight to a Orange plastic on one gun. My best pistol has night sights with white dots, I like that.

So, the purpose of this discussion thread, is how best to deal with the above scenario. If shooting sub-6-o'clock hold is not the best way to learn how to shoot well with open sights, what is the best way to learn how to use open sights regardless of what it is that's beyond them. Maybe painting the sights? Maybe a white outline around the rear sight?

(I never did figure this out, which is why I now think I prefer a red dot sight, but there must be a better answer....... For paper targets I have an answer that works, but I think it's more important to find a way to align the sights with the point of aim - somehow.)
I use stick on orange dots on all my targets. I prefer not to use black targets if I can help it. I always want the bullet to hit where I aim. As my vision got worse I went with more scopes and red dots. Now after cataract surgery I have started using sights again.
 
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(I know what you mean 'd2wing', but I'm not allowed to modify the standard B-8 targets during matches. I put a sticker with a large red X on it onto a target years ago, and was told that's not legal. So, I practice with the same targets we use in matches.)

Cataract surgery and new glasses make for a GIANT performance increase. I've got glasses with a prescription for "distance", and another pair with a prescription to clearly see the front sight. For people with astigmatism, who see stars rather than red dots, this too can be corrected with glasses, or an "IOL" placed in your eye as part of the cataract surgery;
 
On pistols I line up sights before I shoot and only look at the front sight when I shoot. My favorite has white night sight dots. I like that. Another I put an Orange tube sight on.
 
I can't practice at silhouette targets until we have a match, but I figure that should be fun.
When my wife and I were into IHMSA back in the '80s, we practiced at "silhouette targets" made out of the 4 "animals" (chickens, pigs, turkeys and rams) cut out of a roll of roofing tarpaper and stapled to plywood stands. Eventually, the plywood stands would get worn out from too many holes through them, but a roll of roofing paper was cheap, and we got a good many practice targets out of one roll.
Of course, our practice "range" is a local county gravel pit that we can easily get 250 yards out of, and I had it marked off with big rocks at 50, 100, 150 and 200 meters. That gravel pit is only about 2 miles south of the house, so it's "convenient" for target practice to say the least.
You might not have an option like that, but if you do, silhouette targets cut out of roofing tarpaper work great - just saying. Hold at 6 O'clock. ;)
 
.......,,,,,,Of course, our practice "range" is a local county gravel pit that we can easily get 250 yards out of, and I had it marked off with big rocks at 50, 100, 150 and 200 meters. That gravel pit is only about 2 miles south of the house, so it's "convenient" for target practice to say the least. ...........Hold at 6 O'clock. ;)

That sounds wonderful - lots of fun, and lots of good practice. I don't have that option - the group that will be shooting sets everything up ahead of time, and the match is all set to go when it starts. Here's the information from the website:

Metallic Steel Silhouette Outline

Classes are :

Open- Any rifle with optics or iron sights that is not considered a cowboy rifle style.

Cowboy- Lever or pump action with iron sights only.

Pistol- Any pistol that can load 10 rounds. Optics or iron sights.

Ammunition:

22LR 1200 FPS or lower. NO STINGERS or ULTRA HIGH VELOCITY.

Course of fire:

4 Times for each set, for a total of 80 points for the match.

5 Chickens and 5 Pigs at 25 yards in 45 seconds

5 Turkeys and 5 Rams at 50 yards in 45 seconds.

10 rounds in 45 seconds.

This match allows the loading of TEN rounds of ammunition per string of fire.

Scoring is determined by each target that the shooter hits and knocks down. All targets that remain standing at the end of each string of fire are considered misses.

The shooters score is the tally of fallen targets that were actually shot by the shooter.

Occasionally targets fall due to wind or vibration. The match director will intervene and make a determination of the fairest way to score that shooter.

This is a FUN MATCH. It allows rapid fire at steel silhouette targets. Instant gratification of seeing your target fall when hit and instant frustration when you miss!

The match starts at 10 am. Sighting in is the first string of fire for all shooters at the same time. Sighting in ends when there are no targets left standing to shoot at.

The match is usually over by noon.


I only did it once, and if I'm wearing my glasses so I can see the front sight, the "critters" are blurry - hard for me to tell the chickens from the pigs from the turkeys from the rams. I guess I ought to use a red dot sight. I found it very confusing, but I only did it one time. They do this once a month - maybe next time I'll sign up. Loading 10 rounds? Maybe using a revolver would just be an extra challenge.
 
That sounds wonderful - lots of fun
Yes sir, IHMSA was lots of fun for my wife and me - for a couple of years. Unfortunately, we let it become more like a job than a hobby. :uhoh:
I not kidding. I was still working back then, and I'd hurry home from work every day so that my wife and I could drive down to the gravel pit and get in an hour's or so practice before it got dark. Then we would drive back home and load ammo for another couple of hours.
Come Saturday morning, we'd head for a match somewhere. The nearest one was up near Idaho Falls - 80 miles away. Sometimes we'd drive over to Twin Falls or Boise (140 miles or 200 miles respectfully), or even down to Salt Lake - about 150 miles. We went wherever there was a match that day. Of course the matches over in Boise (200 miles) usually meant we were gone from home for the whole weekend.
Then come Monday, we'd start all over - practice and load for next weekend's silhouette match. It took my wife and me and a little over 2 years to figure out what we'd done to a fun hobby, so we quit IHMSA. We've shot in a couple of Cowboy Action matches, a few Mountain Man Rendezvous shoots and a couple of BPCR matches since then, but we're very careful to not take any of them seriously, because we know what we're like - competitive.
BTW, my wife and I didn't compete against each other in IHMSA. She shot in the "Production Revolver" class with a 10.5" Ruger Super Silhouette 44 Mag, and I shot in the "Unlimited" class with a custom 14" Remington XP-100 7mm IHMSA. It's probably good that we didn't compete in the same class. We've been married for almost 51 years now - we might not have even made it to the 20-year mark if we would have been competing against one another during our IHMSA days back in the '80s.;)
Anyway, don't do what we did - don't let a shooting sport (or any other hobby for that matter) get the best of you. :)
 
Our running joke was that Ray Charles could win a gunfight with OEM Glock sights; still can see them better than about anything. Used a +1 rear, to make the G19s shoot 6 o'clock.
The fiber optics work well, too. Having an argument with myself about changing the Patridge on the front of a 25-15 to an optic; have it painted electric green at the moment.
Moon
 
With open sights, sometimes the front and rear sights and the "point of aim" blend together, so it's more difficult than usual to see the sight picture.

So, the purpose of this discussion thread, is how best to deal with the above scenario. If shooting sub-6-o'clock hold is not the best way to learn how to shoot well with open sights, what is the best way to learn how to use open sights regardless of what it is that's beyond them. Maybe painting the sights? Maybe a white outline around the rear sight?

Don't use paper targets with a black bullseye.
 
Sorry, I don't know why it's even an issue. It depends entirely on the gun and its sight picture. You adapt your aiming technique to the gun's sights. You find what works for that particular gun and that's what you use. One isn't "right" and the other is "wrong". It is what it is.
 
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