New reloaded ? About .357 mag loads

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I stopped handing out that advice after I found out it offended some people. o_O
Still a good idea but, I'm not going to be the one to get flamed for suggesting people buy books and read them.

I noticed the same thing. It would be nice if people could see when loading manuals are suggested that for the most part it is the best solution to most loading questions. It is information collected from manufacturers in an easy to navigate, pretty accurate and convenient package vs. trying to collect that same information relayed in bits and pieces that can be skewed a bit from us forum members. With a few exceptions (some people are jerks and that’s just the way it is) most who suggest manuals are truly trying to help and mean no insult by it.
 
I get a little annoyed when people's only response is "buy a manual and read it." I think it is kind and generous to offer help to a first-time poster by answering their question, but we do them a disservice by not encouraging them to thoroughly educate themselves on the activity. Reading the manual covers all the safety stuff they might not know to ask about, that could save them frustration and/or injury.

After they ask four or five questions that clearly demonstrate that they are not willing to read up for themselves, it's time to cut the cord.
 
I get a little annoyed when people's only response is "buy a manual and read it." I think it is kind and generous to offer help to a first-time poster by answering their question, but we do them a disservice by not encouraging them to thoroughly educate themselves on the activity. Reading the manual covers all the safety stuff they might not know to ask about, that could save them frustration and/or injury.

After they ask four or five questions that clearly demonstrate that they are not willing to read up for themselves, it's time to cut the cord.
I agree with you. Most questions are answered by a manual that is a lot better at describing things than I am. I've read Speer, Lee, Hornady, RCBS, and Lyman manuals. They all cover things very well. But I enjoy reading. Most people in my generation or younger don't like paper cuts from turning pages... So off to the Internet.
If we didn't enjoy answering the same questions we wouldn't be on a forum.

OP no offense intended. Welcome to the high road.
 
And heavy crimp like that is ok for .357 mag or medium or wat?

Yes, a heavy crimp is fine in .357mag. I make both mid range and upper level .357 loads, and use a heavy crimp on both. I use less crimp on .38 special, but not much less. I use a roll crimp on these and any other cartridge that seats on the rim.

I use a crimp like ballman6711's on heavy .357 loads.
Tough to see a good crimp on .45acp---I taper crimp so the measurement at the case mouth is .469.

I agree that it's hard to see a good crimp on a .45acp, but it can be measured. .471" is a good starting point when crimping the .45acp. If it plunks and twists in your gun, then you're good to go. If not, tighten the crimp by .0005 ~ .001 and repeat the plunk test. Continue tightening the crimp until it plunks, twists, and falls out freely. My gun MAY plunk with a .469 crimp and it may not. So I crimp mine to .4685". Each gun is different and you have to find what works in yours.

For .45acp I seat the bullet, then crimp in a separate operation (crimping die.)

I also seat and crimp in separate steps. Yes, it's another pull of the handle, but it's easier to set up the dies and I get a much better finished round.

I'm a little surprised nobody has said it yet, but if you don't already have one you should buy a reloading manual or three and read them. I think the questions you're asking would be answered in most of them.

This is always good advice, and I also recommend a good loading manual. I have four, Lyman, Hornady, Nosler, and Sierra. The front has info to teach you the "how's and why's", while the back has the data. "One Caliber, One Book" load books are ok for load data for a specific caliber, but only have data and no educational material.

chris
 
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Changed my last post to say Sierra instead of Speer manual. I've been thinking of getting a Speer if I find one at a decent price.

chris
 
I'm a little surprised nobody has said it yet, but if you don't already have one you should buy a reloading manual or three and read them. I think the questions you're asking would be answered in most of them. If you can't afford a new one right now, there are digital copies of earlier editions available online for free. The load data might a little outdated, but the information on how to go about reloading ammunition safely is still spot on. If you Google "free reloading manual pdf" you should find a few pretty easily. I am partial to the Lyman.
https://archive.org/details/LymanReloadingHandbook48thEdition2002Ocr_201902

Good luck, and welcome to THR.
I have a couple I have lees new one and couple reloading Manuel’s cartridge specific but they all have different data around same specs gets confusing
 
I have a couple I have lees new one and couple reloading Manuel’s cartridge specific but they all have different data around same specs gets confusing
Okay, well not trying to be anything but helpful here, but trying to learn the basics of handloading by looking at the testing data is kinda like trying to learn how to drive by watching traffic court. The Lee loading manual is pretty good, and fairly comprehensive about handloading but the data is reprinted from other sources. Don’t buy the Lee for current, edge of the market loading data, buy it for the getting started section. Read the front of the book and skim the rest. The ABC’s of Reloading is an essential book but you actually have to read it.
 
These fmj giving me some trouble. And that is because when I went to crimp my die was screwed in too far huh?:fire:
 

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Okay, well not trying to be anything but helpful here, but trying to learn the basics of handloading by looking at the testing data is kinda like trying to learn how to drive by watching traffic court. The Lee loading manual is pretty good, and fairly comprehensive about handloading but the data is reprinted from other sources. Don’t buy the Lee for current, edge of the market loading data, buy it for the getting started section. Read the front of the book and skim the rest. The ABC’s of Reloading is an essential book but you actually have to read it.
No offense I read the whole book I’m not jus looking at data like a magic carpet. I jus asking questions on key points. I have questions about. I know that brass casings will still be around for a while until they invent case less ammo. Which is font in the for será me future. And that from ignition of powder which creates an explosion and pressure often exceeds 50,000 psi. Before the bullet is even moved I do read jus have some pin pointed questions
 
Okay, well not trying to be anything but helpful here, but trying to learn the basics of handloading by looking at the testing data is kinda like trying to learn how to drive by watching traffic court. The Lee loading manual is pretty good, and fairly comprehensive about handloading but the data is reprinted from other sources. Don’t buy the Lee for current, edge of the market loading data, buy it for the getting started section. Read the front of the book and skim the rest. The ABC’s of Reloading is an essential book but you actually have to read it.
I have not the lee reloading Manuel is like 1000 pages dictionary thick
 
Book 3EDFDAC8-3194-472D-A119-2BB3539ED94C.jpeg Manuel’s
3EDFDAC8-3194-472D-A119-2BB3539ED94C.jpeg

See
 

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No offense I read the whole book I’m not jus looking at data like a magic carpet. I jus asking questions on key points. I have questions about. I know that brass casings will still be around for a while until they invent case less ammo. Which is font in the for será me future. And that from ignition of powder which creates an explosion and pressure often exceeds 50,000 psi. Before the bullet is even moved I do read jus have some pin pointed questions
Okay, well, I said before I'm going to stop telling new loaders to read books and actually follow instructions and here's why.

Good luck.
 
Okay, well, I said before I'm going to stop telling new loaders to read books and actually follow instructions and here's why.

Good luck.
Then what’s the point of a reloading forum? All different skills levels coming togeather sharing ideas formulas. Asking questions. Or you jus here to watch the show lol. It’s all good if u Dnt wanna answer or help jus Dnt start. Lol find another section to troll hehe
 
Out of curiosity. What does the chapter on die adjustments show for setting your crimp in that manual.
I agree that forums are for expanding on what the textbook explains. The textbook can't look at a picture if your problem and give an answer.
Seat die to ram then back out adjustment crimp
Screw all the way. then insert case with bullet raise ram then adjust crimp screw until
It touches case
Mouth then adjust crimp screw half turn for
Medium or full turn
For heavy. And i didn’t get that out the book off the dome. I think visually when I
Look at the
Crimp I think it’s no
Good….
 
Seat die to ram then back out adjustment crimp
Screw all the way. then insert case with bullet raise ram then adjust crimp screw until
It touches case
Mouth then adjust crimp screw half turn for
Medium or full turn
For heavy. And i didn’t get that out the book off the dome. I think visually when I
Look at the
Crimp I think it’s no
Good….
But then I add more crimp cuz I feel visually it looks like a light crimp lol human error
 
But then I add more crimp cuz I feel visually it looks like a light crimp lol human error
I do the human error part more often than I care to.
I think I settled on about 3/4 turn from contact. One thing to remember is companies make roll crimp, modified roll crimp, and taper crimp. Someone's appropriate crimp might look a little different than yours.
I started at a half turn and kept tightening until I didn't get bullet set back in my lever action.
I think I settled on just over 3/4 turn.
My old days of 110 grain bullets and H110 needed a full turn to get consistency.
 
My opinion is, you can’t have too much crimp, provided the crimp doesn’t damage the bullet or buckle the case. I measure about .010 crimp on my 44 specials, I can’t remember what the 357 mag measures. .010 is a lot, but not excessive.

I also think you can’t read too many manuals. I’ve read Lyman 45,46,47,48,49, cast bullet handbooks 1,2,3,4. RCBS cast bullet handbook, Speer 10,15, hornady 2, Sierra 2, Lee 2, ABCs of reloading, Lyman shotshell 5th, and many other smaller books and articles. And I am still reading. I have Speer 6 and 8 to work on currently. And I’m wanting the Lyman 50 and 51.

OP, sir, welcome to THR. The way I approach bullets for which I have no specific data is to determine the amount of volume that bullet occupies in the case, and find a similar or identical bullet for which data does exist. Loading 357 to 35k psi with a bullet substitution is not safe for a beginner. You should load to 38 special or +p levels to start until you find bullets and data specific to them for 357 magnum.
 
First off, I didn’t see any load data posted, so are you loading these for target/plinking/hunting or sd? I’m not familiar with that powder, but generally the heavier the load, the heavier the crimp. Having good neck tension and a light crimp gets me by with target loads. When I loaded sd or deer rounds, they were hot and got a heavy crimp.

The right answer is it depends. Pick your load, load up 6 and shoot 5. Measure the oal of the last one and see if the bullet moved. If it did, you need more crimp. If not, for that load with that bullet you should be fine.

The manuals are good for covering the basics to get you going, the problem is you don’t know what you don’t know and you don’t know which questions to be asking yet for many issues you haven’t encountered yet. That’s fine and normal, we all started at the same place and with the barest understanding of what we were doing. It gets better, don’t worry.
 
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