Rifle case length critical?

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Trey Veston

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I've been handloading mostly for pistols the past few years and just got into rifle reloading the past year.

I was told that I needed to trim my cases so they are all the same length.

I was working up some loads tonight and the listed case length was 2.494". I checked my fired cases and only two out of twenty-five were longer, six were perfect, and the rest were all shorter, ranging from 2.485" to 2.492".

So, I trimmed the long ones, grouped together the perfect ones, and then grouped the short ones.

So, should I find the shortest one, then trim all cases to the shortest length? Or just find a middle short length and trim all I can to that? Or just not worry about it?
 
I've been handloading mostly for pistols the past few years and just got into rifle reloading the past year.

I was told that I needed to trim my cases so they are all the same length.

I was working up some loads tonight and the listed case length was 2.494". I checked my fired cases and only two out of twenty-five were longer, six were perfect, and the rest were all shorter, ranging from 2.485" to 2.492".

So, I trimmed the long ones, grouped together the perfect ones, and then grouped the short ones.

So, should I find the shortest one, then trim all cases to the shortest length? Or just find a middle short length and trim all I can to that? Or just not worry about it?
It depends on what your looking for IMO.

Utmost precision, or pushing the pressure envelope? Yes, it does, as does weight sorting and all the other little tricks that add to uber consistent performance.

Range blasting ammo? Nope. As long as they are shorter than max good to go.

somewhere in the middle? Maybe.
This is where MOST of my ammo is loaded. For this ammo I usually trim them all to minimum the first time. After that they are trimmed as a batch and only when I find one or two that are at or near max in length.
by the second or thrid time i need to trim ive usually worn out the primer pockets, or lost the brass lol.
 
I was told that I needed to trim my cases so they are all the same length.
Well, if you're overlength enough that the chamber mouth crimps the brass into the bullet, that's bad; you're not. You should measure your chamber so you know.

I would happily bet against a benchrest shooter discerning the effect on target of a .0.003" trim variation, but it's not forbidden by entropy.

So, trim for consistency, but don't sweat <0.010 until your pushing on <1MOA, and looking for more.
 
The key is, don't let them get too long. Every time you fire a bottlenecked cartridge the neck gets a little longer. After a few firings it needs to be trimmed back. If you're looking for the ultimate accuracy, then trim all of them to the exact length. Most of the time you'll see a recommended maximum length. You can trim all of them a little shorter than that if you like.

For informal range shooting and most hunting your loads will be accurate enough as long as the case length is close.
 
depending on how many you are doing. once the trimmer is set up, I just trim the batch to the trim to length. measure after they are sized.
 
The first time that I load a batch of cases I trim them all to the same length. Even if it means that I have to trim them shorter than the trim to length. Thats just the way I've always done it.
 
There was a time when vernier calipers were expensive and dial calipers were super expensive. I think I paid the equivalent of $210.00 in today's money for a Sears Craftsman vernier. It took forever to read the OAL of fired cartridges.

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I had to then get a magnifying glass to read the vernier.

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Being lazy, and time pressed, I came up with a theory that first time cases did not need trimming. This was not created by measuring the length of first time fired cases, oh no, that would have taken too much time! Well it turns out factory new, first time fired rifle cases "grow" more than second time fired cases. Factory cases have a lot of clearance in the chamber, as that helps in feeding and extraction, and I think that is the reason they "grow" more in length when fired in the mostly, but not exactly SAAMI chambers in my rifles.

So, I found out the hard way, by experiencing blown primers, that it was important to trim cases, to keep the case necks out the the chamber throats. When both the bullet and case neck are in the throat. the bullet is pinched, pressures rise, bad things happen.

However, under length? I have vastly untrimmed rifles cases when setting up my Giraud and Gracey case trimmers. I purchased a Gracey direct from Col Gracey when he sold trimmers at Camp Perry. He was a interesting and enthusiastic salesman. He could sell horse shoes to a shod horse.

These case trimmers are trial and error, and the 223, 308, 30-06 that I trimmed, occasionally, cases would come out 0.010 less than minimum OAL. And, my 270 Win cases, made by neck sizing 30-06 cases, are well below 270 Win minimum. And they all go bang, and they all shoot well.

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a bit low, only needed to adjust the sights

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I am of the opinion, that a little short is a big nothing burger. Maybe for someone shooting my 300 yard groups at 1000 yards, maybe they will see something. They might even see the affect of gravitational differences across hills and valleys, but not within my hold.

As long as the case is long enough, and strong enough to hold the bullet in place, the round will go bang, the bullet will go down range, and life will be good. I do try to stay above case minimums when trimming. I do know case neck length can vary out of the sizing die, by differences in case lube thickness !

I do think important, is base to shoulder length. I try to have the case shoulder average 0.003" from the rifle chamber, to ensure each round chambers effortlessly. However I do have a couple of 35 Whelen rifles which have misfired or hangfired (in cold weather) due to too much clearance between case and chamber. The 35 Whelen has a very shallow, yet highly tapered shoulder,

WlMbARm.png

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and it is easy to dissipate firing pin energy on this case by essentially, sizing the case down when the firing pin hits the primer. So for the 35 Whelen, I make sure all my cases have zero clearance to a tiny bit of crush when the bolt is closed.

I note that the recent, stubby, high performance cartridges, all have very abrupt shoulders. The older case designers were more concerned with perfect feeding and extraction from the magazine. Highly tapered rounds feed and extract much better than straight walled cases. However, today everything is single stack.

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and the long range shooters are using single shot actions without ejectors! So they can live with cases that are straight, and have abrupt shoulders for better ignition.
 
Every person has their own process. I size all my brass then set the trimmer to .005 less than max and trim them all every time. I shoot precision rifle and your process for blamo may be different but mines the same, except I power trim 223 and hand trim the rest. You can be fast and cheep, you can be accurate and cheep but fast and accurate is not cheap.
 
The big takeaway here us if you are crimping the necks then to get consistant neck hold then you should trim them all to the same length. I found for my ammo that crimping rifle rounds hurt my accuracy so now I only trim if they are longer than max allowed. Otherwise I process as usual without crimping.

I DO however crimp my ammo used in tubular magazine firearms (30-30 etc.) to prevent setback.
 
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