Is this a timing issue on my new Colt? Update

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Peakbagger46

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2B64EB92-B731-49CF-8DA8-7CD75D9BF2E7.jpeg Finally shot my new King Cobra today. First 75 rounds were fine (mixed .357 and .38, all 158g LSWC reloads). Then the double action trigger pull felt off and gritty, followed by off center primer strikes with no ignition. Single action still worked 100%. What likely is causing this issue? Obviously it’s going back to Colt.
 
Often given advice: Check under the
ejector star for unburned powder,
grit, etc. Clean thoroughly. Then test
fire again.

How "clean" or "dirty" were your reloads?

Did you eject empties straight down,
holding gun vertically?

With gun empty, did you check to see
how freely the cylinder moved and
locked up?

Before firing, had. you "oiled" even a
little bit under the ejector star?

Even in single action, did pulling hammer
back feel like some drag or resistance
was present?
 
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I should have clarified, the picture was with factory loads (130g Winchester FMJ .38s). Issue happened with both factory and my reloads.

Honestly I’m a bit scared to shoot it again, seems like if the timing is that off I could blow up the gun if one of the non-centered rounds were to ignite.
 
Often given advice: Check under the
ejector star for unburned powder,
grit, etc. Clean thoroughly. Then test
fire again.

How "clean" or "dirty" were your reloads?

-Kind of dirty, 2400 and Unique powder

Did you eject empties straight down,
holding gun vertically?
-no

With gun empty, did you check to see
how freely the cylinder moved and
locked up?
-yes, free movement and good lockup

Before firing, had. you "oiled" even a
little bit under the ejector star?
-negative, I carefully removed factory oil before firing

Even in single action, did pulling hammer
back feel like some drag or resistance
was present?
-No
 
It sounds like the cylinder stop (some call it the cylinder bolt) is not locking into the cylinder stop notch prior to the hammer being released when you are shooting in DA mode. I had this scenario with a S&W M60 bought new around 1990. It worked fine SA mode because the hand rises ever so slightly higher when thumb cocking the hammer all the way back. When trigger cocking in DA mode, the hammer releases at a slightly earlier point, and at that point the hand may not have lifted the cylinder "enough" to make lockup, and you get off center hits. You can observe this by dry firing DA, then after the hammer falls and while still holding the trigger to the rear, gently turn the cylinder in the direction of rotation. If the cylinder stop "clicks" into place (will probably be very subtle), that's what's going on.

Definitely want to get that warranty repaired.
 
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I had a couple light strikes with my new Python. These rounds fired reliably when cycled through the gun again (D/A). Have only shot my own reloads. Gun was clean and I shot only ~25 rounds and I was focused on a couple other handguns.
My plan?.....clean/inspect (done), send more rounds down range and include factory loads.
 
Does that imply that the bullet is striking or entering the Forcing Cone off - center?
 
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Since the primer strikes are on the 3:00 o'clock side, that means the cylinder is not rotating far enough before the hammer falls.

It appears the cylinder is sticky and the action is not able to rotate the cylinder properly.
This one I'd send back to Colt along with this photo, and with a short letter describing that the cylinder is not rotating properly.
 
Update:

I spent a good amount of time getting the whole revolver very clean, paying special attention to under the star extractor. I then put empty brass in it and dry fired. The problem still exists with strikes way off the center of the primers. When this happens it also sounds different when the hammer falls, kind of a softened noise inside of a sharp click.
 
FACTORY TIME but one last thought
about the fact the hand apparently
isn't getting the cylinder all the way
into battery.

Try blowing some Gun Scrubber into
the window of the hand. Perhaps
some of that Unique or 2400 grit
managed to get into the innards.
(Take grips off so any grit can be
blown back down into the grip frame.)
 
You nailed it yourself. It's a timing issue and needs to go to the mothership for repair. Don't take a chance.

You may just want to take it to a local gunsmith you trust. It will be back to you much faster than factory repairs.
 
It sounds like the cylinder stop (some call it the cylinder bolt) is not locking into the cylinder stop notch prior to the hammer being released when you are shooting in DA mode. I had this scenario with a S&W M60 bought new around 1990. It worked fine SA mode because the hand rises ever so slightly higher when thumb cocking the hammer all the way back. When trigger cocking in DA mode, the hammer releases at a slightly earlier point, and at that point the hand may not have lifted the cylinder "enough" to make lockup, and you get off center hits. You can observe this by dry firing DA, then after the hammer falls and while still holding the trigger to the rear, gently turn the cylinder in the direction of rotation. If the cylinder stop "clicks" into place (will probably be very subtle), that's what's going on.

Definitely want to get that warranty repaired.
I agree with LaneP's assessment. How rapid was your DA fire, when you got occurences like you picture shows? Take your unloaded revolver and hold it so you can watch the cylinder stop move as you pull the trigger in DA. It should retract from the cylinder stop slot almost immediately when the trigger starts back, to allow the cylinder to rotate to the next chamber. The stop should drop into the next slot within about 2mm of trigger travel prior to the hammer dropping, which indicates the cylinder is aligned with both the barrel and firing pin. If the cylinder stop has not dropped into the slot prior to the hammer fall, timing is off. Yours looks off, from the appearance of the far off-center and missed primer strikes.

Does that imply that the bullet is striking or entering the Forcing Cone off - center?
Yes, it does, if the firing pin is centered enough to ignite the charge. You get what's called "lead shaving" at the forcing cone. The alignment is not far enough off for the bullet to hit the face of the cone, because the cone has a tapered opening, but it isn't good for it to happen, causes wear and spits particles out of the gap that can be damn painful if they hit you.
 
Just considering - it worked fine for a number of rounds, then this started to happen. I'm wondering if the hand might be damaged or something else in the chain of parts that rotate the cylinder. 100% this should go back for warranty repair.
 
Hopefully the warranty repair is quicker with CZ. Before CZ I had two visits about 2-3 weeks gone each visit. CS wasn’t great ethier. BUT! It’s fixed and I can’t wait to shoot again. It’s been toooo long
 
Update:
I called Colt today and was told this is uncommon but not unheard of. The customer service guy said he isn’t sure exactly what broken part causes this issue. They are sending me a shipping label and estimated time is 20-30 business days. I was told a custom shop gunsmith would do the work and then it would be test fired.
 
Man, I hate to see this about a new Colt King Cobra, as I have one that's just been magnificent.

I know a very few of our members have had issues with the newer production Colt revolvers, and at least one has noted that his revolver (that apparently took two trips back to the mothership) now functions quite well. I'm hoping that these problem handguns represent a minute percentage of guns leaving the factory that have problems. Based on what I'm seeing on the internet, that seems to be the case, but it sucks if you're the chosen one that ends up with the gun that has issues...
 
IMO, there is something wrong with timing. When I check revolver, I first go SA for each chamber, and check if cylinder locks in all positions properly. Same for DA.

As for timing checking using live ammo, especially 357 Magnum full power factory load, I wouldn't risk. See the round bottom left; it did fire, even chamber center and alignment with barrel were off. In that case bullet is partially hitting a face of aft end of the barrel, instead of whole bullet going centered into forcing cone. This condition could drive pressure very high, with all consequences.

So, instead of using live ammo, I would go with just primed brass. If primer goes off while cylinder isn't aligned, all that will happen would be a small bang from primer, no harm done to revolver. Just my two cents...
 
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