db_tanker
Member
I figure that the throat would be shot out first before the rifling would be gone...the duce mag would be a bit more powder and carry him a bit longer if so until the rifling WAS gone.
Options for shot out Handi-Rifle barrel?
- Thread starter Scout21
- Start date
- Status
I figure that the throat would be shot out first before the rifling would be gone...the duce mag would be a bit more powder and carry him a bit longer if so until the rifling WAS gone.
Bwana John
Member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2004
- Messages
- 2,960
Clean well with copper solvent.
Counter bore muzzle.
Seat bullets out farther.
Use oversized (.226", .227" ) lead bullets.
But.. I can't figure how you will wear it out with a single shot. I expect to get at least 7k rounds through semiauto High Power Service Rifle match barrels subjected to rapid fire strings before I notice accuracy falling off enough to notice it in my scores.
Counter bore muzzle.
Seat bullets out farther.
Use oversized (.226", .227" ) lead bullets.
But.. I can't figure how you will wear it out with a single shot. I expect to get at least 7k rounds through semiauto High Power Service Rifle match barrels subjected to rapid fire strings before I notice accuracy falling off enough to notice it in my scores.
Last edited:
someguy2800
Member
That would not be possible, 224 valkrie is shorter than 223
After looking, you're correct, the .224 case length is shorter. (OAL is the same.)
wild willy
Member
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2008
- Messages
- 634
I would almost bet before you shoot out the barrel on a handi rifle you will have other problems. Everyone seems to think that they are simple and trouble free. That’s far from the truth
someguy2800
Member
I'm curious what problems do you see in high round count handi rifles? The issue that I see frequently is light primer strikes from weak or fatigued hammer springs and long headspace. I could see how the locking surfaces could wear to the point that it would not lock up correctly, but I can't say I've ever seen it actually happen.
wild willy
Member
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2008
- Messages
- 634
I wouldn’t be surprised if they would loosen but that can be fixed.A single shot if the barrel steel is equal will give the maximum barrel life little chance of getting the barrel smoking hot.In that thousand and thousand of rounds odds are very good you will break a hammer spring maybe a couple and maybe a firing pin.GBO was the first forum I joined years ago for the Handi info I’ve owned about a dozen I was never into the modifications like some are but I’ve had my share of the issues they are known for failure to fire. Cases sticking in the chamber. Only grouping good if you rest them on the front of frame flying open when shot although that’s easy to fix.I’m missing some I’m sure go to the Graybeard site and do a little searching there are people who were really into them but over time just kinda gave up.
Last edited:
mgmorden
Member
Honestly - replace it with another used one - or another gun alltogether. All the options mentioned will WORK just fine but are not particularly cost effective. I'd only bother with reboring or sleeving if I wanted something REALLY odd that wasn't available factory. The thing is guns used to be far more expensive than they are now and gunsmithing used to be a lot cheaper. These days outside of things that you just can't buy factory (eg, something like a 7-30 Waters lever gun or other custom chamberings) its usually not worth the smith's time (or rather, the money you'll PAY for his time) to futz with such things.
EG I just rebarreled a Savage Axis - but ONLY because I wanted a 6.5x55 barrel and that's not available from the factory (and it's mostly niche factory options that still offer that). The replacement barrel cost more than the original gun did.
EG I just rebarreled a Savage Axis - but ONLY because I wanted a 6.5x55 barrel and that's not available from the factory (and it's mostly niche factory options that still offer that). The replacement barrel cost more than the original gun did.
- Status