1911 break in period

md7

md7

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Always heard that 1911’s need a break in period. Now that I own two, and have over 1,000 rounds with one and approaching 300 in the other I’m not so sure that’s true.

Both have fed, fired, and ejected 100% with various combos of mags and ammo types. The only things that have changed, particularly with the 1911 that’s been fired over 1,000 rounds, is that they smoothed up a bit over time (slide seems smoother and trigger seems a little more crisp).

Im inclined to think that running a few hundred rounds through a 1911 is more about checking reliability with your mags, ammo, etc than it is for “breaking in”. Also a good chance to make sure you adjust extractor tension, if necessary.

But I think checking for reliability with mag and ammo combos is a different thing than breaking in.

What say you? Agree or disagree? Is it brand specific?
 
An ordinarily specc'd 1911 should require no extensive break-in. The OP is entirely correct; a couple boxes of shells, to prove it as a defense gun, should do it.
Now a tight fitted custom gun is another matter. Buddy just got a 'hardball' gun; that puppy is so tight that it is very difficult to even rack it. He was advised to run 1 k rounds before taking it to a match.
Gunmakers who advise an extensive break in period (Kahr, talking to you) either don't fit their guns very well, or want a reason to put off customer service.
OP, if you've proved your gun for reliability, relax and shoot it.
Moon
 
These days, since most folks don't start with a 1911, but rather with a polymer framed 9mm, some of the "break in" is "break in" of the shooter and not the gun.

Habits learned from years of shooting polymer framed 9mm pistols, from grip, to working controls, to lubrication, to understanding single column mags, will often find those new to the 1911 having problems with the guns until they figure out what works for one gun doesn't always work for another gun.
 
halfmoonclip said:
An ordinarily specc'd 1911 should require no extensive break-in. The OP is entirely correct; a couple boxes of shells, to prove it as a defense gun, should do it.
Now a tight fitted custom gun is another matter. Buddy just got a 'hardball' gun; that puppy is so tight that it is very difficult to even rack it. He was advised to run 1 k rounds before taking it to a match.

Moon
Click to expand...
Perhaps forum member @tark can chime in, but Les Baer's have a reputation as being the tightest fit of the semi-custom guns, and almost universally their owners report that while a break in is recommended, it isn't for reliability reasons as the guns usually work perfectly from round one on.
 
Mine wouldn't clear a 7 round mag with out a stove pipe until I put at least 100 rounds through it.

I think there's 3 reasons an individual 1911 can jam all the time.

Safe queen, never been broke in.

Expensive 1911 syndrome, It's one of those tighter fitting expensive ones , you might think it's broke in, it's not.

Safe queen condition 2, it's been in the safe so long all the oil ran out from where it's needed and you are just about firing a dry gun, because you grabbed it and headed to the range since you cleaned it last time you put it up, several years ago.

Powder puff reloads. Reloading manuals have start loads for a reason.

Crap magazines. If you got a feeding problem, it's probably not a gun problem. So many 1911 mags have been made by different manufacturers who knows what's out there.
 
JTQ said:
These days, since most folks don't start with a 1911, but rather with a polymer framed 9mm, some of the "break in" is "break in" of the shooter and not the gun.

Habits learned from years of shooting polymer framed 9mm pistols, from grip, to working controls, to lubrication, to understanding single column mags, will often find those new to the 1911 having problems with the guns until they figure out what works for one gun doesn't always work for another gun.
Click to expand...

That’s true. I came into 1911’s after nearly 20 years of shooting Glocks or DA/SA autos. It took some familiarization for me before I settled in to the 1911.
 
I’ve had a few really tight guns gum the slide up a little after an extended first range session when they are good and dirty.

Both times it was well after 100 rounds, humid and cool, and just a little dirty slide slowdown.

On both after that first good cleaning, flawless since.

So I do get that some might need a little time for the slide to “break in” so to speak, but that’s just two out of the dozen plus 1911s I’ve had.
 
JR24 said:
I’ve had a few really tight guns gum the slide up a little after an extended first range session when they are good and dirty.

Both times it was well after 100 rounds, humid and cool, and just a little dirty slide slowdown.

On both after that first good cleaning, flawless since.

So I do get that some might need a little time for the slide to “break in” so to speak, but that’s just two out of the dozen plus 1911s I’ve had.
Click to expand...
Would you mind sharing which brand of 1911’s you had that were tight like that?

Both of mine are Springfield. Mine are not what I’d call super tight, but they’re also not loose. It’s interesting to note… as the parkerized finish is removed on the rails they seem to get a little slicker when racking. In my sample of two.
 
md7 said:
Would you mind sharing which brand of 1911’s you had that were tight like that?

Both of mine are Springfield. Mine are not what I’d call super tight, but they’re also not loose. It’s interesting to note… as the parkerized finish is removed on the rails they seem to get a little slicker when racking. In my sample of two.
Click to expand...

Sure, one was a DW VBob and the other one was a Wilson Combat, though that was technically an EDC X9, but it’s quite close so I count it.

Other thing to note on both guns was around 35 degrees and a bit rainy and I absolutely noticed more buildup on the guns than is typical. So I think it was a mix of tight, temp/humidity, and dirtier powder, unique I think I was using at the time.
 
.45Coltguy said:
Hmm. I only own one 1911-A1; SA mil-spec in .45 acp. Don't recall any break-in stuff, just loaded it up and shot it with supplied "Shooting Star" mags. No issues, so, bought 4-5 more of those mags. Nary a problem. Sometimes simple wins the day.
Click to expand...
My Mil Spec sounds just like yours. The Loaded is coming along the same. Except I did remove the Full Length Guide Rod in the Loaded and put in a GI set up like the Mil Spec.
 
JR24 said:
Sure, one was a DW VBob and the other one was a Wilson Combat, though that was technically an EDC X9, but it’s quite close so I count it.

Other thing to note on both guns was around 35 degrees and a bit rainy and I absolutely noticed more buildup on the guns than is typical. So I think it was a mix of tight, temp/humidity, and dirtier powder, unique I think I was using at the time.
Click to expand...
Thanks, JR24. It’s interesting how weather can affect things like that. Interesting to read about!
 
md7 said:
What say you? Agree or disagree? Is it brand specific?
Click to expand...
I have to agree and that pertains to my own experience with my own pile of 1911 guns. While primarily Colt Series 70 guns there are a few others in the mix. I have herd that Kimber guns require break in but that was not my experience with my two 3" barrel Kimber guns in .45 ACP. I also have a GI copy Kahr Arms which has worked fine out of the box. Anyway, I can only speak for what I have to base my agree on.

Just My Take....
Ron
 
There is a misconception in the 1911 world that you must have a very tight slide to frame fit for accuracy. This is not true. Yes slide to frame fit will effect accuracy to a certain extent. It is the barrel to slide fit, including the bushing, that has more to do with how accurate a 1911 is.

Here is a perfect example using the old 'battle rattle' 1911s we had in the service. The slide to frame fit on most were very loose, hence the nickname "battle rattle". But as long as the barrel to slide fit and bushing were good, then they were accurate pistols even with a loose fitting slide.

I was shooting my new Rock Island 1911 with a buddy shooting his top of the line Kimber. He couldn't get through a single magazine without several malfunctions. My loose RIA ate everything I fed it without hesitation. Plus the RIA was just as accurate or better than the Kimber. I shot both to confirm.
 
md7 said:
But I think checking for reliability with mag and ammo combos is a different thing than breaking in.

What say you? Agree or disagree? Is it brand specific?
Click to expand...

In reality whats the difference? I want a gun to work period.

I own a number of guns that have "break in periods" in their manuals. I treated them no different than others that do not.
 
12Bravo20 said:
But as long as the barrel to slide fit and bushing were good, then they were accurate pistols even with a loose fitting slide.
Click to expand...
This ^^^^
The barrel locks up to the slide, and the fit of the locking lugs determines the fit to the breech face. It's pushed up into that lock-up via the swivel link and the pressure of the spring against same.

Fit of the barrel to bushing then determines the final alignment of barrel to the fixtures at the breech, like the extractor.
 
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