Why is my rangefinder so sticky.......

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Remington1911

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I have an OLD Nikon range finder, thing has to be 10-15 years old and the plastic housing has gotten just yucky to touch. You grab it and you can see your fingerprints.....almost like it is covered in tape that is upside down or that goo you find when you take off electrical tape that has been there for 100 years.

I don't use this thing very often but making new signs for the range and double checking the distances and yuck I did not want to touch it.

I know this happens to other plastic gizmos, so does anyone have and solutions for cleaning this stuff, I have watched a couple youtube videos, and I am a little worried about killing the range finder.
 
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Many sources suggest Acetone, and that is just pretty harsh and I think might damage the plastic. I have seen some say cover it with plastic wrap....well no that is just stupid, and with the buttons and door to replace batteries not really going to work.

I saw a video about using talcum powder and I think that would be like the baby powder.

I really don't even want to touch this thing, but don't want to spend the money on a new one.....this thing was expensive.
 
My only experience with this problem is with a pair of very old binoculars made when the rubber covering thing was fairly new. I finally managed to remove the goo with, of all things, Hoppe's #9 and then removed the #9 oilyness with ordinary 70% rubbing alcohol. The goo has since returned to some extent although it has required several years to do so. Darn it, I liked those binoculars.

Acetone just eats a lot of plastics but I might try it as a last resort before filing the devise in the dumpster.

I got a kick out of your thread title and the explanation. :D I imagine any young person that reads the forum did the same. Kids learn at an early age.
 
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Long term some elastomers will ex-gas and turn gummy. Limbsaver has a long standing recall over this (if you stock or buttpad gets nasty they will replace it even if really old). I've tried the powder idea on a pair of binos, big mistake! It just makes more mess. Rubbing alcohol seems to work pretty well, as does acetone. Go with the alcohol first in case the acetone discolors the item and leaves it with that washed out dry look so common on car bumpers and trim.
 
Same thing happens with fittings on helmets.
The plastic/rubber seems to breakdown over time.
Replacement has seemingly been the only solution.
 
My only experience with this problem is with a pair of very old binoculars made when the rubber covering thing was fairly new. I finally managed to remove the goo with, of all things, Hoppe's #9 and then removed the #9 oilyness with ordinary 70% rubbing alcohol. The goo has since returned to some extent although it has required several years to do so. Darn it, I liked those binoculars.

Acetone just eats a lot of plastics but I might try it as a last resort before filing the devise in the dumpster.

I got a kick out of your thread title and the explanation. :D I imagine any young person that reads the forum did the same. Kids learn at an early age.

Some folk are just so uptight anymore, and hay this gun stiff is a serious thing but it is also fun, so lets have a little bit of fun here.

And while I am only 3 years from retirement no one has ever accused me of being an adult.....that just seems like it would not be fun, and hay I am only on this mud ball for a short time before I turn in the meat suit....lets have a little fun while I am here.

I think I will try the alcohol first, do you think gin or vodka :)

I am betting this expensive thing a decade ago is going to do the same thing a $199 version does now. Shame the thing works you just don't want to touch it, so I will not use it, but I can't toss it.
 
Had the same thing happen to a spotting scope I had. I figured it couldn't be caused by heat as it was kept in a nice cool basement except when it was being used at the range. It was never exposed to any harmful chemicals either. I tried alcohol but that didn't work then I attempted to remove it with Goo-Gone and that was a no-go as well. Thought about scraping it off with a knife but that would have taken forever so I ended up tossing it out.
 
Here's my schedule for cleaning surfaces... soap and water first, then rubbing alcohol on a soft cloth , then mineral spirits on a rag, then lacquer thinner on a rag, finally (and a last resort - acetone - the universal solvent... ).
Seriously cleaning plastic, polymer (some rod finishes), and other surfaces possibly damaged by the wrong solvent can be a chore. Each step up adds the possibility of removing some of the surface and so I'm watching the cloth in use to see if it's getting some of the surface coloring (a pretty sure hint that you've not only removing any sticky residue - but also the surface under it... as I go along.

Hope this helps and I"m well aware that in some cases to clean up sticky residue -- all you're really doing is removing the top layer of some kinds of plastic, or synthetic rubber-like items...
 
I think I will try the alcohol first, do you think gin or vodka :)

I prefer rum or bourbon myself, but I would probably try to wrap it with some wide vinyl like gorilla tape and cut outline around the control buttons. Even better might be a shrinkable covering like Monokote or Econokote. If you have a friend who builds R/c airplanes he probably has some scrap pieces large enough. Or the shrinkable vinyl they wrap cars and boats with might work.
 
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Same thing happened to my Kowa scope, some alcohol did the trick. careful masking and some Krylon plastic paint and it looks good as new.
Kowa said they could refinish it for $250.00!
 
Same thing happened to a pair of Nikon binoculars. Nikon said to send them back and they replaced the rubber at no charge. I'm about to do the same with a Nikon rangefinder. They are easy to work with.
 
Many sources suggest Acetone, and that is just pretty harsh and I think might damage the plastic. .
I would be very leary about acetone. I ruined my best casting reel by cleaning it with acetone. It melted the nylon gears in a Shimano GT1000. It was top-of-the line back in the 80's. I cried a little.
I retired a Nikon range finder and now have a Sig Sauer. It is a decent unit for the price. (Read Cheap)
 
Same issue with hoods lenses, some polymers degraded sooner I have no luck fixing them
 
I am thinking I am just going to have to toss this thing.....really pains me to trash something that works perfect, but I just can't stand to touch it.

Consume consume never stop buying stuff. Don't make it last then you can't sell it again....way of the world I guess.
 
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