Good 1911 .45ACP for $500-$700

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Looking to advise a nephew about a good 1911 .45 for around $600. plus or minus. I'm not that familiar with .45s in that price range. I've shot Kimbers belonging to friends, but they are too expensive for my nephew. I have had good pistols, but they are kinda low on my interest list and I've not learned that much about them. Help if you can. Thanks.

Also be careful in the used market at this price range. Lots of Bubba's buy cheap 1911s like the RIA or Tisas and get the dremel out to improve them but do not have the experince or the knowledge to to do it properly and then dump them onto the used market.

I would recommend the Ruger but they are way overpriced these days. I am not sure if it is a production issue but their SR1911 Govt is selling for $900. That is absolutely insane. It is should be a $700. It used to be a $700 gun but for some reason it is now $900. You can get a better deal on a Commander but I always recommend a Govt for a first 1911.
 
Unless you are going to use the gun strictly on the range, you have to consider how to carry it. How do the sights interface with the holster? Look at post #24. Those sights aren't going to work with a normal holster. Either go with the low WW2 sights, or more modern streamlined ones. "Holster-ripper" sights won't cut it (or, rather, they will cut the holster). :)
 
Also be careful in the used market at this price range. Lots of Bubba's buy cheap 1911s like the RIA or Tisas and get the dremel out to improve them but do not have the experince or the knowledge to to do it properly and then dump them onto the used market.

I would recommend the Ruger but they are way overpriced these days. I am not sure if it is a production issue but their SR1911 Govt is selling for $900. That is absolutely insane. It is should be a $700. It used to be a $700 gun but for some reason it is now $900. You can get a better deal on a Commander but I always recommend a Govt for a first 1911.
I was going to ask why the Ruger SR1911 is not getting any love. I paid $683.99 from GrabAGun.com for my all stainless Commander model back in 2019. I see they raised the MSRP to $1169.00. WOW!

The Commander was my first 1911. I see nothing wrong with recommending it as a first 1911. Easy to shoot, plenty accurate, and there's the option at least to carry if you so choose at any point.
 
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Unless you are going to use the gun strictly on the range, you have to consider how to carry it. How do the sights interface with the holster? Look at post #24. Those sights aren't going to work with a normal holster. Either go with the low WW2 sights, or more modern streamlined ones. "Holster-ripper" sights won't cut it (or, rather, they will cut the holster). :)

LOL my Milt Sparks, Tucker Kydex, Warbird leather etc..... disagree. They all have no ill effect from Colt Classic sights. If you can shoot a 1911 those sights will work just fine. Now I agree there are better sights but my holsters are not afraid.

This one works just fine too.


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I was going to ask why the Ruger SR1911 is not getting any love. I paid $683.99 from GrabAGun.com for my all stainless Commander model back in 2019. I see they raised the MSRP to $1169.00. WOW!

The Commander was my first 1911. I see nothing wrong with recommending it as a first 1911. Easy to shoot, plenty accurate, and there's the option at least to carry if you so choose at any point.

Good value at $700 at $900+ not so much.
 
I agree but they are not made in USA ... :D

And Glocks were made in Austria ... Thank goodness they are now made in the USA along with Sig 1911. :p

Both Dan Wesson and Colt 1911s are made in the USA, regardless of ownership. I imagine anyone up on the industry or who frequents THR has seen the numerous posts about the purchases.
 
I was going to ask why the Ruger SR1911 is not getting any love.

Post 12 I did specify the Ruger Nightwatchman, the only Ruger 1911 I have seen near the OP’s specified budget. To all; I realize there are 1911s available within that range but the two I specified as “the list” are the only two I would personally consider.
 
Good value at $700 at $900+ not so much.
But you would pay $500 for a gun made in Turkey (to equal the Ruger) or other overseas source but not $900 for a Made in USA product? If you have not noticed, everything has gone up in price. Yes I paid $700 for a new Ruger SR back a couple years ago, so I do not consider a $200 increase out of line. This is the real world today, even ammo and primers have increased in price.... if you haven't noticed.
 
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Many have given great advice, in this young fellow's price range, or less.

I'll explain one thing.

In the price range we're discussing, all of the frames will be cast, as opposed to forged.
Cast frames can not withstand the stresses of higher pressure cartridges, should he ever want to upgrade to .460 Rowland.
 
Many have given great advice, in this young fellow's price range, or less.

I'll explain one thing.

In the price range we're discussing, all of the frames will be cast, as opposed to forged.
Cast frames can not withstand the stresses of higher pressure cartridges, should he ever want to upgrade to .460 Rowland.

Tisas are forged and RIA are cast but you are correct in that it matter more how it was done and was it done properly vs the method.
 
Many have given great advice, in this young fellow's price range, or less.

I'll explain one thing.

In the price range we're discussing, all of the frames will be cast, as opposed to forged.
Cast frames can not withstand the stresses of higher pressure cartridges, should he ever want to upgrade to .460 Rowland.

How do cast or forged frames do compared to Polymer or plastic framed guns? How many people convert 45 ACP to .460 Rowland?
 
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I have put 10's of thousands of rounds of 45acp through (2) aluminum framed commanders and they both still run just fine. The slide to frame fit wear is negligible. No drop off in accuracy. I keep them wet during each range session. I have a steel framed Government with 27K through it. Again, negligible slide to frame wear and accuracy same as new.

1911's may have their faults but lack of durability isn't one of them.
 
I have put 10's of thousands of rounds of 45acp through (2) aluminum framed commanders and they both still run just fine. The slide to frame fit wear is negligible. No drop off in accuracy. I keep them wet during each range session. I have a steel framed Government with 27K through it. Again, negligible slide to frame wear and accuracy same as new.

1911's may have their faults but lack of durability isn't one of them.

Who made the guns? Stating 1911s are reliable is the equilvant to saying cars are reliable. It really depends on who made them and when.
 
Many have given great advice, in this young fellow's price range, or less.

I'll explain one thing.

In the price range we're discussing, all of the frames will be cast, as opposed to forged.
Cast frames can not withstand the stresses of higher pressure cartridges, should he ever want to upgrade to .460 Rowland.

Not all, all of the Tisas models use forged frames and slides and mill after hardening.
 
Stating th
Who made the guns? Stating 1911s are reliable is the equilvant to saying cars are reliable. It really depends on who made them and when.
Stating that these (3) 1911's are reliable is coming from my experience. Not by brand but rather by design. Stating the brands would just start a brand war. Not going there.
 
I just recently bought a Tisas Duty BR in 9mm for $489 to see exactly how an inexpensive foreign 1911 stacks up against an American 1911 - my SA Range Officer Target, which was $400 more expensive. So far it has matched the RO shot for shot. The Duty BR is also available in .45acp and I don’t know why it would be less accurate.
6E4C804E-A06B-4DB0-A0AD-F23E2750A9E1.jpeg 72204B50-2431-4007-BADC-92F4344A5615.jpeg E997079F-1ED6-4034-8C21-BE18FE1AA64D.jpeg Tisas Duty BR 10 shots at 7yds. The flyer is for the gun gods!
https://www.tisasusa.com/product-p/1911dbr.htm
 
Stating th

Stating that these (3) 1911's are reliable is coming from my experience. Not by brand but rather by design. Stating the brands would just start a brand war. Not going there.

So then the advice becomes meaningless because almost no one uses the the original design and no one uses the same design from one manufacturer to another.
 
Good value at $700 at $900+ not so much.
Sign of the times. I don't think any handgun should be above $1k or the same price as a rifle, but it 8s what it is. In the current market with inflation, I guess it's still a good buy.
 
Who made the guns? Stating 1911s are reliable is the equilvant to saying cars are reliable. It really depends on who made them and when.
FWIW, while my railed Sig 1911 XO went 12,000 trouble free rounds, friend's RIA Tactical (now Rock Standard) went 10,000 trouble free rounds, both using Chip McCormick 8 round Power Mags/Wilson Combat 47D shooting factory ammo and LSWC reloads. Only thing replaced were recoil springs with Wilson Combat/Wolff springs. Nothing broke, even with Sig MIM parts.
 
Dang, you guy know your guns. Now I know how noobs feel going into the reloading section
 
We'll let others be the judge of that.

I am not doubting that your guns run what I am trying to say is that if you do not name the gun and the manufacturer and when it was made how does that hellp the OP choose what to recommend or buy? Why does everyone on this forum turn everything into a pissing contest. It doesn't need to be that way. Look at what the OP is asking. Answer the question in the context of the question. If you want to talk about he reliablity of your unnamed 1911s do it in another thread because it has no value in relation to the OP
 
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