Improvement...

Great improvement! Though i wouldn't want to be on the receiving end of either group...

You can tell your rifle recoils up and to the left by the first group. The speed at which you shot produced the spread as you were still moving when firing again. This is still evident in the second group, but significantly less pronounced.

Scrod314 said:

I forgot to say... I was given a Rave-140 trigger as a gift. I'm going to drop it in tonight and try to get to the range this weekend. I hate to mess with stock equipment out of fear of causing a problem, but I've reviewed instructions multiple times and even spoke to the gunsmith at a LGS I frequent. Installation looks really simple. I guess if the trigger doesn't work or I don't like it, I can take it out and reinstall the stock trigger.

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Oh you will love a cassette trigger vs a mil spec one.

Very simple install.
- remove upper receiver
- punch out the hammer pin then the trigger pin
- pull the trigger, sear, hammer, and all associated springs out, save for backup
- slide cassette assembly in
- slide pins in
- function test

The pins supplied with cassette triggers come in a few types but most have a small screw that screws in each end after the pins are installed. Some come with a small alignment cone that threads in for ease of installment.

Scrod314 said:

I just started the install now. I removed the stock trigger in like 5 minutes. I'm looking at the new trigger. Do I need to put blue (medium strength) locktite on the screws that go into the anti-walk pins? I'm hesitant to do this until after I fire the rifle with the new trigger. I don't want it to get stuck in my lower if I strip those tiny screw heads if I decide to remove the new trigger.

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You are past the hard part lol! Fire it before using the thread locker. Blue is pretty strong on that small of a thread. And put just a tiny drop on there. Maybe put a drop on a piece of cardboard and touch the screw to the drop.

BigBlue 94 said:

You are past the hard part lol! Fire it before using the thread locker. Blue is pretty strong on that small of a thread. And put just a tiny drop on there. Maybe put a drop on a piece of cardboard and touch the screw to the drop.

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I like using a tooth pick to apply thread locker.

I actually keep a small stash for just that purpose.

Scrod314 said:

Thanks, brother. Just finished. I function tested it several times. Seems good to go. Really, extremely simple. Trigger feels great! 3.5 pound pull,supposedly. I tried the same trigger at my LGS on a mock up lower and liked how it felt. I can't wait to shoot it. I'm going to have to let my girls borrow my car Saturday morning to free up some time to shoot.

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You're welcome! Yep super easy, but daunting if you have never done something like that.

Im not familiar with that particular trigger, but 3.5 lbs is great for getting the most accurate groups. And its less of a work out for your finger

Scrod314 said:

Thanks, you guys. Here's my setup. Problem is, now I want to build one. I need to save some cash. I've been focusing on buying ammo lately when I can get it for 45-55 cents a round.View attachment 1095132

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Buy ammo and get one AR part with every order. Pretty soon you will have all the parts. A gun is no better than a stick without any ammo to go in it.

Building one costs quite a bit. I always start out building a budget rifle and it ends over $1000. Ill have that much in my 10mm carbine, with iron sights and a mil-spec trigger/LPK that i already have.

Scrod314 said:

That's a great idea! I saw some 80% Polymer lowers for sale. Are those any good? My LGS has some Aero lowers on sale right now, too.

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80% lowers are going to become serialized in a couple weeks and require machinery and talent to complete. Its not really worth it for the common man to utilize an 80% lower. Certainly not cost effective.

Polymer80 is a brand that sells both 80% and finished receivers. I had one of their jigs for an 80% lower. It was just okay. No other experience with em.

Aero is a great brand. I have a number of their parts. I would opt for one of these. I prefer aluminum over polymer but im biased towards metal.

Scrod314 said:

I think the Aero lower this weekend. Friday is payday. The Aero lower is on sale for $79.95. Good deal?

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Yes good deal indeed. And you can use your now-removed trigger parts while you save for a better one.

Scrod314 said:

I think the Aero lower this weekend. Friday is payday. The Aero lower is on sale for $79.95. Good deal?

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There's at least two different Aero lowers I think. A pretty bog standard one, and a "enhanced" one.

They're both high quality and the enhanced one is a very good value. Either version, $80 isn't a bad deal. You might be able to find them a little cheaper online, but after shipping and transfers you're back to about the same price.


It's been awhile since I snagged a pile of $20 Anderson lowers and doubt I'll see that again soon. I might pick up one of the Enhanced ones just to mix it up a little with my next build even though I still have some "Poverty Pony" lowers kicking around.

Scrod314 said:

I didn't even think of that.

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Spare/leftover parts grow into whole new rifles if left alone in the dark.

I like happy threads!
Nice rifle,@Scrod314.

And happy threads get purple thread locker.
I have an Aero handguard with some slight scuffs around the lock screws, curiously, in the shape of a Dremel cutting wheel. Blue is too strong for such tiny screws. Use something weaker.

As well, Aero is my company du-jour. Every piece is quality and an entire rifle can be made ala carte, or purchased whole cloth. This one highly recommends them, as well as their sister companies, Ballistic Advantage and VGA. Good stuff.

Scrod314 said:

I had to order Loctite 222 (purple) as none of the hardware stores around here carry it. That's what I want to use on those screws for the anti-rotation pins, right?

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Yes. Purple 222 is best for screws under the 6- series size. Things like scope rings and sight bases.

Blue is best for stuff in the 6- series and up, with it being fairly weak on say a half inch bolt. Red usually requires heat to remove. Green is for slip/press fits, not threads. This is a general rule as even loctite has multiple types of all colors.