Wood loading blocks preservation

MonkTx said:

What's a simple finish I can apply to these to protect them? BLO or a dip in a polyurethane finish?

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I recommend to use the wipe-on poly.....or if you have time to wait for it to dry----use tung oil...

I would use either Poly or Lacquer. Even the Minwax oil Stain would seal up the wood.

I would try to avoid oil for you don't want powder and residue sticking to the blocks.

Mine are soaked through with One Shot case lube. No worries about them drying out anytime soon.

I like the improved chemical resistance of poly-acrylic finishes.
And, of course, my maxim, “if it can’t be sprayed, it shouldn’t be painted.”

I love Rattle Cans!

Tru Oil. Dries fast can put many coats

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...d-finishes/tru-oil-stock-finish-prod4952.aspx

Do it ONCE do it RIGHT ; Penetrating epoxy sealer . Before rushing out and buying it ,it's Pricey but works like Nothing else .

However first examine the wood you cut and made your loading blocks out of , Red Oak is Highly porous ,White Oak is far more stable . Think Oak barrels and why they don't leaks . Tropical hardwoods are relatively stable ,especially floor species . Even Red Oak engineered flooring is Very stable ,as it has alternating lamination's across it's facial axis.

If someone drills a bunch of holes in a flat sawn relatively thin .750" or less board warp is GONNA HAPPEN ,quarter sawn or thicker and better yet smaller strips reverse lamination is the way to go ,think Butcher block counter top. Redwood or Cedar in softwood category are very stable . It's a professional opinion based upon 60 + years of studying and working with all the above .

BushMaster-15 said:

Even Red Oak engineered flooring is Very stable ,as it has alternating lamination's across it's facial axis.

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Plywood loading blocks? Yuck!

Ipé would make a nice loading block. Ten pounds a board foot and already drenched in oil!

I made mine from an old mahogany Chris Craft runabout I found as Lake Mead receded. It’s already been as abused as it ever will be.

Now for the truth, if you must, use what smart folks use in those parts to refinish fine furniture. Don’t glop it up.

They’re years old? Too late to prevent anything and too late to need anything.

Demi-human said:

Plywood loading blocks? Yuck!

Ipé would make a nice loading block. Ten pounds a board foot and already drenched in oil!

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You can always trim the edge with Oak so as to match the face Engineered wood is just that Engineered , so as to avoid woods natural tendency to warp or cup . Wood constantly breathes moisture in moisture out unfortunately not as evenly as we'd like to see ,hence cupping or warping . As suggested IPE is a Hard dense stable wood but the point being nearly any wood can be made stable ,simply by following a few sound techniques in cutting or laminating it's structure . I keep a sizable chunk of Lignum vitae ,to use as a pounding surface within the house . Put it on carpet and slam the B geezus out of whatever I'm working on ,have yet to make a mark and it's near 60 years old now .

entropy said:

Mine are soaked through with One Shot case lube. No worries about them drying out anytime soon.

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Yep works well...

Drown them in boiled linseed oil and let them soak all that up. It's good for the wood. It protects the wood. It's inexpensive. It allows follow-on treatments of wax and oils. It leaves no brush marks, drips, or runs... as paints or sealers might. It's been used for centuries to protect wood.

https://vermontwoodsstudios.com/content/linseed-oil
.

MonkTx said:

Hello all,

I made a bunch of wood loading blocks years ago out of red oak and poplar and never coated them with anything. I've noticed some of the oak ones are getting cracks and warping, I guess from our semi-arid West Texas climate.

What's a simple finish I can apply to these to protect them? BLO or a dip in a polyurethane finish?

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Just wipe them with tung oil once in a while. I use it on all my wood stuff, from gun stocks to knife handles. Just let them dry with ventilation somewhere not on your load bench, and don't throw the towels in a can.

Another vote for boiled Linseed... with a twist. For the first 2 coats, cut it 50/50 with turpentine or mineral spirits. It really penetrates the wood. You don't have to be an artisit, but dab up any excess with a rag. Give them a final coat with straight BLO. Do the same for your gunstocks, tool handles, wooden shelving, pretty much any wood. Poly belongs on your deck, and even there it's a marginal finish that doesn't really protect the wood. Just makes it look protected while climate and UV light have their way with it.

I'd use Danish oil. It wind fix warp but will shrink cracks and protect the wood.

I'm no wood expert but that's what I use on tool handles and gun stocks.

Mineral oil also works. I treated my only 2 wooden blocks with it, and they're holding up fine. Mineral oil is also good for treating wooden (food) cutting boards, as it is not toxic. Use it lightly, let it soak in, repeat.

MO's a major component in Ballistol!

Just buy a spay can of Min-Wax clear poly varnish. Set the block and and paint outside in the sun until both are hot. Spray the block and let it soak into the cracks for several minutes and then spray it again. Set the block in the sunshine to cure which it does quickly. This will prevent any more deterioration. Can't get any quicker or easier than that.

I have several wooden blocks that I have made over the years to hold things. Loading blocks, tool holders, etc. I sprayed every one with Min-Wax spray when finished and they all still look just about like they did when new.

I like in an area where it is so humid I have mold issues, everywhere.

Still, if I lived again in the dry southwest, I would coat the wood with boiled linseed oil, till the wood was saturated, use a urethane on top. My dad, and myself, used epoxy clear coat on Dad's sail boat. You can find the stuff in marine stores, and it used to be $125.00 a gallon. That stuff is far more durable than any urethane, but out in the Florida sun, with the humidity and salt air, everything rusts and deteriorates.

Whenever I travel out west, I have to liberally coat my hands in hand lotion several times a day, and even then, the skin cracks at the ends of my fingers. It is dry out there! I bet the Japanese American's , the Germans, and the Italian POW's at Camp Lordburg, all wished for a little rain.

To protect from moisture you want a good Marine grade Spar Varnish such as ...
Rust-Oleum 207008 or Min-Wax 632000444 Spar Urethane ( it comes spray-on too )
These are fomulated to finish wood boats ... this finish on your blocks will beat any other seven ways to Sunday .

For dry skin - hands , feet , arms or legs the absolute best thing is good old fashioned ... Petroleum Jelly aka Vaseline . For years I suffered from dry skin on my feet ...as I aged my skin become more drier ... my arms especially . legs too ... I tried all the creams , lotions , ointments , moisturizers , Bag Balm , mineral oil ... nothing worked untill I tried a .99 cent jar of store brand Petroleum Jelly ... and let me tell you here and now that stuff is the best for dry . flakey . itchey skin ... it soothes too ..
Just try it ... it's the best !
Gary

And since consensus has been reached, next we’re going to decide what’s the best powder.

Gun powder, powdered sugar, or bath powder?

CQB45ACP said:

And since consensus has been reached, next we’re going to decide what’s the best powder.

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I like Johnson's Baby Powder ... smells real good .
Gary

Actually to ensure the wood is sealed and only doing it once requires epoxy sealer ,however a number of OILS can be used as urethane Marine grade varnishes ad the very best of those types of coatings are ;
https://www.epifanes.com/ To absolutely seal once and forget it use : https://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EQ89RYW?tag=housegrail-20&th=1&psc=1&geniuslink=true

As people keep reminding ME ,it's the 21 St. Century BETTER products exist as do Rifle scopes powders . So Old school before EPA ruined nearly everything , I'd have suggested Old Solvent based CWF by Flood or one of MY all time favorites Gymthane by Duraseal . The #1 commercial gym floor sealant , speaking of which what I use because I have a healthy supply of it : Bona Kemi hardwood floor urethane https://www.bona.com/en-us/products/professional/sport/oil-modified-finishes-and-sealers/

Having studied written and worked with polymer's for better than 50 years the technology is hard to beat . Many products will work but only a few are superior by design . For no more abuse than a loading board ever experiences , local big box store for your favorite urethane or varnish . I'd steer clear of spray can and stick with dipping or brushing. Any Modified Oil sealer is gonna be the best you can hope for within that range of products .

gwpercle said:

I like Johnson's Baby Powder ... smells real good .
Gary

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Just remember Talc is carcinogenic , so DON'T get it between your legs Talc, a mineral often used in cosmetic and personal care products, has been linked to ovarian and uterine cancer and mesothelioma.
Personally , I believe that mining contamination of asbestos would be more likely the cancer agent . Just My opinion .