First AR Assembly... Need Advice.

Status
Not open for further replies.

Scrod314

Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2020
Messages
376
Hello... So, I finished putting this together tonight. I was amazed at how easy it went together for me. I'm looking forward to shooting it and I hope it works.
I want to get some rail covers. I don't care for the Magpul, hard plastic ones. They feel really bulky. I'd like something thinner and maybe more "rubbery" or soft? Anyone have any advice? Thanks. I apologize for my toes. 20220908_201845.jpg
 
Is that a rifle length gas system on a carbine buffer?
Ummm... I don't know? I'm sorry. Kind of new to AR's. How would I know? I mean, what do I look for to tell me? It's an Aero Precision complete upper I bought on sale. I told the salesperson at the LGS I needed a buffer tube assembly. It's a 16" barrel. Is it safe to shoot?
Edit... I found out it has a carbine length gas system.
 
Last edited:
I just found the buffer tube assembly box. It is a carbine length buffer. Aero Precision said it's a mid-length gas system. Am I good to go?
 
Last edited:
The train-track looking covers (mine are the somewhat softer variety) really save your hands; Picatinny rails feel like cheese graters.
Availability is catch as catch can.
Moon
 
caf7852b-ac0f-4eb8-b23c-29a930c9bf21-768x512.jpg.optimal.jpg
That sounds appropriate.
If it's over gassed try a heavier buffer.
When you say heavier buffer, do you mean the bullet shaped piece that goes into the buffer spring? Do I need a different buffer tube? I have an extra buffer spring. Thanks for helping me. I'm sorry I'm a moron.
 
Yes that's the buffer and they make heavier ones, but don't worry too much about it till you try shooting it some.
The AR15 is an old design with a whole lot of different parts that achieve the same goal.
A 3oz carbine buffer on an 18 inch midlength should run fine, just a bit over gassed, running a bit fast, throwing the brass forward, ect.
223gas.jpg
 
Last edited:
I have tried a few different things.
The cheapest drop in way to get a heavier buffer is a steel body buffer.
A normal buffer body is aluminum with steel weights. This one is steel body with steel weights. On sale they are about $30.
Libertysilencers.png

If you like to take stuff apart just ordering tungsten weights and putting them inside your aluminum body buffer works too, also about $30 if you buy the tungsten weights off evilBay or that jungle website.
I use a steel body buffer filled with tungsten weights, but I also use a silencer.
2022-09-08 23.09.26.png

But try it out first as is.
 
Your rifle doesn’t have a quad rail, so picatinny rail covers won’t be the right option for you.

Ergo makes a softer, rubberized m-lok rail cover which will fit your handguard.

85ABD0AD-0BAB-4E06-9DAC-3461037772A1.jpeg

A lot of guys also simply lace paracord through their handguards - I can’t say I’m a big fan of it, but some guys are into it.

Also - don’t get scared by any interrogation about your gas system and buffer combination. One user here in particular seems obsessed with over-complicating the buffer system in the AR. Millions of AR’s are running happily all around the world with lightweight carbine buffers even in carbine length gas systems (shorter length with higher pressure and dwell time than your middy) - in fact, for a majority of civilian manufacturers, carbine buffer + carbine gas is their standard design. Yeah, they’re often a bit over gassed to promote reliable cycling, but they run long lives with no ill effect. Your mid-length + carbine buffer will run just fine.
 
Is that a rifle length gas system on a carbine buffer?

No.. it’s a Picatinny Front Sight, NOT A Sight Block. He’s using a Low Pro Gas Block, just under a 15” rail. It’s likely a Mid-length gas system. Most barrels sold today are mid-length.
 
Stoner designed the rifle length gas system and buffer to be just about perfect.
Deviation from the 5.4oz/15in/0.085'' design quickly develops trade offs.
Remember military wants 4moa, in a gun that runs from Antarctica to Zimbabwe and everywhere in between with a high cyclic rate, saving the brass is irrelevant and if it lasts 10 to 20 years that's actually ideal for the dot mils.
We want more like 2moa, in a gun that runs in our regional conditions, cyclic rate is irrelevant, some prefer brass that isn't beat up by over driven ejection then scattered all over the county and we want our guns to last more like 30 to 100 years.
 
Yes, it is Mid-length. Here it is, I circled where you can see the Gas Block under the rail.
A6-C3-C1-EF-69-F5-4792-8-A07-35-DCEC4-CC4-A9.jpg

To the OP, for the kindyou are looking for, go to Google Images and type in “Rail Covers Soft Rubber”. And choose the style that appeal to you. They are covers. If they are too cheap or too expensive they aren’t Good! But the covers in the normal price range are equal reforming. Feel & look are all that matters.
 
I have these on my 458 SoCom.

20190623_103647.jpg

The panel covers posted above don't get it for me, still leave edges exposed. These cover the edges and add a better surface for your hand.

Not sure of the name, been awhile since I bought them. Came in a large selection of sizes to customize the fit.

Look for them on ebay, think I paid less that $20 delivered for a package.
 
I have these on my 458 SoCom.

View attachment 1101920

The panel covers posted above don't get it for me, still leave edges exposed. These cover the edges and add a better surface for your hand.

Not sure of the name, been awhile since I bought them. Came in a large selection of sizes to customize the fit.

Look for them on ebay, think I paid less that $20 delivered for a package.

These won’t work. Need the ones more Mlok. There are different Rail Covers per the attachment style: Picatinny, Mlok, Keymod. They aren’t interchan
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top