Hickory walking stick for SD.

redneck said:
I've always kind of thought to myself that the loose dog problem was a bit overplayed. This past week a lady in her mid sixties was out for a bike ride in an area I used to do a lot of trail riding with my horses and had to leave her group of friends and walk back to their cars when she got a flat tire. 3 dogs attacked her and nearly killed her. These were uncontrolled pets, not feral dogs. People that happened to be driving by managed to stop the attack and get her help, but some of what I've read about it says she had to have one leg amputated below the knee.
Sounds like the good Samaritans had to use their car as a barricade, and one had a walking stick but no other weapons. Thought of the whole thing makes me sick.
The radio host talking about it this morning was worried about the dogs too, wondered if the owners would be able to keep them after this "isolated incident". The world has really gotten to be a mess.
Don't go hiking without your stick.
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Loose dogs are the number 1 reason I carry a weapon while walking with my wife in town. I don't carry a walking stick too, but I probably should. When out in the woods, I always have a hiking stick (an old cross country ski pole) if not carrying a rifle. Along with a handgun, of course. And bear spray depending on where I am walking.
 
Bamboo is an underused wood for sticks, as long as self-defense is not the reason for the stick. It's strong enough to put weight on, but somewhat weak laterally. It's also light enough for a pair to be used as trekking poles, and strong enough to use them as poles in a tarp shelter. I love the colors and look of bamboo, and I used pieces of bamboo in my yards. It grows wild in green belts around here.

A bamboo stick could still intimidate a dog, and some of my Filipino arts training would work with a bamboo walking stick. BTW, it needs a crutch tip, or the bottom end will wear down quickly. I see bamboo as ideal so someone who likes a 1-inch or greater diameter, but who finds that too heavy in oak, hickory, etc.

I keep thinking about how cool a split-bamboo atlatl would look...
 
Happy this thread was started here. My wife & I are retired and hike 3-4 miles often and our house has woods on all sides full of hickory & oak trees. I cut two walking sticks today for us to use and I'll keep my eyes peeled for a nice shaped one to work on. We recently went to NC & TN mountains and a lot of hikers were using them in the steep terrain. Sunday were were hiking through the woods through the fallen leaves and the footing was bad so we grabbed a stick for my wife to use. In my seventies now and not as good on my feet as a few years ago and a walking stick may prevent a fall.
 
I bought a cane made out of hickory as a non-lethal form of self defense. I felt this was a good choice for the times I go on a military base and can't carry as we do a lot of shopping at the commissary and PX. I also have it with me when we walk around the lake because of the snakes I occasionally encounter. I also am allowed to carry it on an air plane.
 
theotherwaldo said:
I cut several black locust staves out of my drainage cut back in southern Oregon and used them for many years.
I'm having a hard time finding a suitable replacement here in south Texas.
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You might try Pecan or Arizona ash and if still not available get Oak, but to me hickory is the best.
 
A work in progress. Apple that spent a year in the weather. That made peeling a little more of a project than peeling green. But here it is peeled, sanded and one coat of BLO. I plan to do something more with the grip and add a lanyard. But it's a start.

apple stick.jpg
 
Boattale said:
A work in progress. Apple that spent a year in the weather. That made peeling a little more of a project than peeling green. But here it is peeled, sanded and one coat of BLO. I plan to do something more with the grip and add a lanyard. But it's a start.

View attachment 1113889
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Looks good, and sturdy. I have yet to try linseed oil..i'll have to get a can of it.
I spent a few hours on the cherry stick posted earlier. Sanded and applied Carnauba. Will have to put a brass or copper end cap on the bottom.

IMG_1465.JPG
 
I like linseed oil, but read labeling carefully. Most products actually offer a "linseed oil finish", and have polyurethane in them

I don't want polyurethane on my sticks because it makes the surface stick to your skin, giving a friction burn the way I use my sticks defensively.

John
 
JShirley said:
I like linseed oil, but read labeling carefully. Most products actually offer a "linseed oil finish", and have polyurethane in them

I don't want polyurethane on my sticks because it makes the surface stick to your skin, giving a friction burn the way I use my sticks defensively.

John
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Thanks. I'll watch for that.
The carnauba i use is Lundmark's Clear Paste Wax. It's an older can with nothing but carnauba and turpentine. The newer cans have "added hardeners". Not sure what they have added but i hope the old type wax is still available
 
mope540 said:
Thanks. I'll watch for that.
The carnauba i use is Lundmark's Clear Paste Wax. It's an older can with nothing but carnauba and turpentine. The newer cans have "added hardeners". Not sure what they have added but i hope the old type wax is still available
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I have what has to be a 30 year old can of Johnson's paste wax. No idea what's in it but it's good stuff and has lasted a long time. I am careful to get the lid on tight. There's still an old sock in the can that is a perfect applicator. I use it on oil finished wood gun stocks and also coat barrels with it. Good protective product.
 
Boattale said:
I have what has to be a 30 year old can of Johnson's paste wax. No idea what's in it but it's good stuff and has lasted a long time. I am careful to get the lid on tight. There's still an old sock in the can that is a perfect applicator. I use it on oil finished wood gun stocks and also coat barrels with it. Good protective product.
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I too have been using SC Johnson paste wax on finished wood gun stocks and barrels for at least 30 years. I also enjoy woodworking, and I usually put a coat of it over my finished wood projects as a last step. Unlike you though, I obviously didn't get the lid on tight the last time I used it, and my can of SC Johnson paste wax dried out.
That was more unfortunate than I would have guessed because my wife and I couldn't find a new can of SC Johnson paste wax anywhere in town. So, I figured I'd just order one through Amazon. No luck there either - Amazon doesn't have it either anymore. I guess I'm going to have to look around for a different brand of paste wax, darn it! :(
 
This was more like $12 when I last purchased in 2014, but still seems to be the same stuff. https://smile.amazon.com/Minwax-785004444-Finishing-1-Pound-Natural/dp/B000LNOZAW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1L6NE8QEY7M8R&keywords=paste+wax&qid=1668133850&sprefix=paste+wasx,aps,121&sr=8-1&th=1 I have about 3 tins in different places. Good stuff!

Edited to add that the SC Johnson product has apparently been discontinued. I never compared the two directly, but have had excellent results with the Minwax product.
 
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rust collector said:
This was more like $12 when I last purchased in 2014, but still seems to be the same stuff. https://smile.amazon.com/Minwax-785004444-Finishing-1-Pound-Natural/dp/B000LNOZAW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1L6NE8QEY7M8R&keywords=paste+wax&qid=1668133850&sprefix=paste+wasx,aps,121&sr=8-1&th=1 I have about 3 tins in different places. Good stuff!

Edited to add that the SC Johnson product has apparently been discontinued. I never compared the two directly, but have had excellent results with the Minwax product.
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Thanks rust collector! I saw Minwax paste wax in Lowes when I was shopping for SC Johnson paste wax last week. I wondered if it was about the same, or if it would work just as well. :)
 
Boiled Linseed Oil works great, but there is a trick to applying it. If you put on a heavy coat and leave it to dry like you would lacquer or polyuerethane finishes it will get gummy and never dry completely. Instead you need to put on a heavy coat that will flood the surface and then after about 5 min, wipe it down and rub it out so that almost no film is left. Do this every couple days for a week or two and you end up with a great finish. It works great for finishing burnt wood as well.

Another oil finish that is a bit easier to use is Danish Oil. It goes on a bit easier and dries more like polyurethane but gives a duller soaked in finish like BLO. It can also be had tinted so that you can stain and finish in one step.
 
hso said:
Rattn Bos can be had rather cheaply (with the skin on).
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Yes, rattan is also an excellent choice! Deceptively strong for its weight. Like bamboo, it will need a crutch tip at the bottom to prevent premature wear. Leave the skin on for character, strength, and impact resistance.
 
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