.30 Cal Universal carbine

Midway has dies for 30 carbine. The Lee dies are available, and they do a pretty good job of making ammo. You’ll need the Factory Crimp Die to go with the 3 die set. You’ll also need a trim die of some sort as the 30 carbine brass has a tendency to grow, and brass that’s too long can cause the gun to fire out of battery.

I can’t help you with the brass, but maybe check places that sell once fired brass. You may have to buy some ammo and save your brass until it becomes more available.

https://www.starlinebrass.com/30-carbine
Its still in current production and it's not an immediate fix, but it'll be back.

AJC1 beat me to it. I bought 1K a while back and split it between a couple of cousins. We also used the 110gr bullets from RMR. So far all good.

You can also watch some of the classifieds and pick up once fired on occasion, or shop for the less expensive brass cased factory ammo and save the brass.

Mr_Flintstone said:

Midway has dies for 30 carbine. The Lee dies are available, and they do a pretty good job of making ammo. You’ll need the Factory Crimp Die to go with the 3 die set. You’ll also need a trim die of some sort as the 30 carbine brass has a tendency to grow, and brass that’s too long can cause the gun to fire out of battery.

I can’t help you with the brass, but maybe check places that sell once fired brass. You may have to buy some ammo and save your brass until it becomes more available.

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LFCD is never required for any round. It just seam the younger crowd has not learned to setup their dies correctly, or too lazy to do so. I started loading that round in the early 70's, long before the LFCD was ever created.

Akula69 said:

Interestingly, there were several boxes of 1970's era rounds with the weapon.

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You may want to break a few down and make sure the powder has not gone bad. I had some Fed ammo of the same era that went bad. There was no indication of it going bad on the outside of the case. But once you took one apart the powder was clumped and sticking to the inside of the case. It would have not been long before it eat through the brass. I ended up disposing of it all, except the bullets.

The W296/H110 is a great powder for the 30 carbine.

Blue68f100 said:

LFCD is never required for any round. It just seam the younger crowd has not learned to setup their dies correctly, or too lazy to do so. I started loading that round in the early 70's, long before the LFCD was ever created.



You may want to break a few down and make sure the powder has not gone bad. I had some Fed ammo of the same era that went bad. There was no indication of it going bad on the outside of the case. But once you took one apart the powder was clumped and sticking to the inside of the case. It would have not been long before it eat through the brass. I ended up disposing of it all, except the bullets.

The W296/H110 is a great powder for the 30 carbine.

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You’re correct. It is not required, but unless all his brass is trimmed to a uniform length, he’d run into issues with applying the taper crimp that the Lee dies do. 30 carbine brass grows with every firing, and unless you trim each time, the FCD just makes it easier to manage variances in case length.

Agree with both of the above. Proper case length is critical on reloaded .30 carbine brass and I wouldnt risk shooting that ammo at all- commercial smokeless powder does not contain as much stabilizer as military powder and breaks down more quickly resulting in unpredictable burn rates and pressure.
I would tear it down and reuse the brass if its not internally corroded.

On a side note, if I could find .30 carbine ammo and shotgun shells for $2.99 a box today, I’d buy a truckload.

The Universal Carbine may, or may not be a good shooter.
The early ones used surplus slides and bolts. Also many had GI bolts and barrels. These were good guns.
The latter have stamped slides and flat bolts, aftermarket barrels. These have a reputation for slides jumping off the bolts and dismal accuracy.
You need to figure out which you have before investing too much in reloading gear.

I have two GI carbines, and a Ruger Blackhawk. They have been better than CD’s or stocks investments. I also get to shoot them!

IMO, your best course is to buy some ammunition to shoot and generate reloadable brass.
Find out if your gun is a reliable shooter.

Lee dies are available and inexpensive. I was gifted an older set of Lyman dies. I still bought a set of Lee dies for the Carbide sizer die, and powder-expander die. I also got the Factory Crimp die as I load them on a 5-die progressive loader. I do size and decap them separately and trim as needed.
My favorite load is a Lee 93gr cast RN bullet I powder coat and load over 11.8gr of #2400.
Except for current cost of primers, it’s a profoundly inexpensive plinking load!
Good luck with your carbine.

https://ammoseek.com/ammo/30-carbine

BTW; PPU is good stuff. Loaded close to GI specs, excellent reloadable brass.

I would bet all of that ammo is safe and reliable yet. Likely loaded with a bulk version of H110 (W540 in the shotgun shells) which are both very stable. The Winchester ammo is likely 1980s through 90s. I'd pull down one of the Federals for a closer look just to be sure. I'm still shooting the 3006 pictured below.

GooseGestapo said:

The Universal Carbine may, or may not be a good shooter.
The early ones used surplus slides and bolts. Also many had GI bolts and barrels. These were good guns.
The latter have stamped slides and flat bolts, aftermarket barrels. These have a reputation for slides jumping off the bolts and dismal accuracy.
You need to figure out which you have before investing too much in reloading gear.

I have two GI carbines, and a Ruger Blackhawk. They have been better than CD’s or stocks investments. I also get to shoot them!

IMO, your best course is o buy some ammunition to shoot and generate reloadable brass.

Lee dies are available and inexpensive. I was gifted an older set of Lyman dies. I still bought a set of Lee dies for the Carbide sizer die, and powder-expander die. I also got the Factory Crimp die as I load them on a 5-die progressive loader. I do size and decap them separately and trim as needed.
My favorite load is a Lee 93gr cast RN bullet I powder coat and load over 11.8gr of #2400.
Except for current cost of primers, it’s a profoundly inexpensive plinking load!
Good luck with your carbine.

Click to expand...

The OPs gun is a 2nd Gen. Monte Carlo Sporter as witnessed by the barrel band and stock. The slides jump because they crack and/ or the retainer falls off. Its a common enough problem that Jack First made a run of new, improved slides a few years ago but they were pricey and sold out fast. I sent him a PM about what to inspect and watch out for.

Random 8 said:

I would bet all of that ammo is safe and reliable yet. Likely loaded with a bulk version of H110 (W540 in the shotgun shells) which are both very stable. The Winchester ammo is likely 1980s through 90s. I'd pull down one of the Federals for a closer look just to be sure. I'm still shooting the 3006 pictured below.

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Still highly variable on the conditions it was stored in- hot attics and such....
I wouldnt shoot it, but everyone is free to take their own risks in life. (shrugs)
I was just given one of the yellow Super-X boxes, also .30-06, and the stuff inside couldnt honestly be called "ammunition" anymore- more like verdigris sludge, lol. Supposedly it had been in an interior closet for the last 10 years, but no telling before that.

Yes, a lot does depend on the storage. This ammo was stored in unknown condition, but judging by the cardboard and brass conditions were not awful. I did pull one down to inspect. Still shoots tight groups. The WWII Des Moines was fine also other than a couple of dead primers. For the OP. https://www.proxibid.com/Guns-Milit...arbine-brass-tag-1394/lotInformation/72793548. Brass. They also have a. 30C die set and various carb parts on this auction. https://www.sportsmansguide.com/pro...e-30-carbine-sp-110-grain-50-rounds?a=1584550 Quality loaded ammo with good boxer brass from a reputable seller. Safer bet to acquire brass than the mystery auction brass

Clumped powder? Hum?
Good idea to break them down.

I use a taper crimp with my 30 Carbine reloads. W296/H110 are my powders of choice. Follow published data. Supposedly, the Military version of W296 was the main powder for USGI 30 Carbine ammunition. Other powders for the same range work well as well. Use published data.

Berry 110 RN plated bullets are designed for 30 Carbine velocities and work well. That does not mean Berry has any in stock but if you have not looked at them, it is another source.

I find that I do have to trim my 30 Carbine cases. All cases do not have to trim every time, but I check length and trim the long cases.

I understand Universal carbines can be hit or miss. I’m no help here, all my carbines are USGI issue or a recent Kahr paratrooper model (I figured I could never afford a real USGI paratrooper carbine).

Magazines can be hit or miss as well. 20 rounders work best for me with WWII style carbines. Korean magazines work well for the most part. Normally, the bolt does not lock back after the last round unless it has a magazine follower cut to do so.

If I remember correctly, the 30 round mag followers are cut to hold the bolt open after the last round. 20 round magazines do not hold the bolt open.

Have fun with your 30 Carbine rifle. They are fun to shoot.

The carbine is a fun rifle. I hope this helps.

Akula69 said:

So, I was cleaning out my mother's house today (and even though she told me she had no firearms in the house) found an interesting carbine in the closet on the floor. Apparently it is a 1970's model Universal carbine (out of Hileah FL).
View attachment 1117169

So, I'm going to get into loading 30 cal, and have noted several issues:
1) The dies are hella hard to find, and the crimp die is unobtainum.
2) Brass is very scarce
3) Projectiles are relatively easy to find, as is the H110 (which seems to be the go-to powder).

Interestingly, there were several boxes of 1970's era rounds with the weapon...I have attached some photos for your viewing pleasure (especially the prices - I only wish we could get them at that price now!)
View attachment 1117170 View attachment 1117171 View attachment 1117172

I am looking for advice from those who reload .30 cal...especially were brass may be obtained.

Click to expand...

There's a lot to sift through here.

I own over a dozen M1 Carbines including two 1st Generation Universal. One I just acquired and haven't shot it much, but the other shoots rings around all my other carbines and it's really pretty!



1) The dies are EASY to find and there are at least two dozen sets on Gunbroker, some of them used and inexpensive. Don't bother with a carbide sizer die because you'll still have to lube the cases. There's at least one taper crimp die on GB too, which you will need.
2) DOZENS of auctions for brass. If you bide your time you can get some really good deals on .30 Carbine brass on GB. You can also go to the CMP Forums and place a WTB ad.
3) I've been getting emails that Hornady 110 gr. FMJ's are now in stock at places like Midsouth. I bought my last 110 gr. FMJ's from RMR Bullets. They're good bullets and a little less expensive than Hornady's, but they need to be seated a bit deeper than Hornady's. I have used quite a bit of H110/W296 in this caliber, but am leaning toward Accurate 4100/Ramshot Enforcer as they work very well and it meters like water.

You will definitely have to do some trimming of the cases.

New slides have been fairly available, Gun Parts Corp sells them, I've seen them on Gb and eBay for $100.

I don't know when people started worrying about 50-year-old ammunition going bad. If you think about it, powder in a loaded cartridge is sealed from environmental conditions better than if it were loose in the original container. I'd shoot the stuff and not worry about it, but it your inclined to break down ammunition that's in all likelihood good to go, get after it.

35W

Here's an ad for some ammo, brass and dies.

Another for dies and an excrement ton of brass and bullets.

35W

I have been very happy with this brass while waiting for the next Starline release.

https://nereloading.com/30-carbine-reloading-supplies-in-stock-free-shipping.html

Listen to the prior contributors.
* Brass is readily available, but it may not be cheap.
* Reloading Dies are also readily available.
* Since the brass has only a slight taper you will need to lubricate it for resizing, or pony up for carbide dies,
* Since the brass has only a slight taper, it has a very long life.
* Many powers will work; such as H110, Win 296, IMR 4227/Hodgdon 4227.

My father sold the Universal Carbine I used as a teenager as a punishment when I didn't follow his instructions as to where I was to go to college or what degree I was to get.

I hope you get more use from yours than I did from mine.

hdwhit said:

Listen to the prior contributors.
...
* Since the brass has only a slight taper you will need to lubricate it for resizing, or pony up for carbide dies,.

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Most, if not all of the manufacturers of 30 Carbine carbide sizing dies recommend lubricating the cases when using their carbide sizing dies.

Some folks do not use lubricant with 30 Carbine carbide dies and, yes, the cases get resized. But things go much better with 30 Carbine if one lubricates the cases even if the dies are carbide.

This thread has got me interested in getting one of my 30 Carbines out for some "exercise". Maybe some "sweet music" from my Rockola carbine.

hdwhit said:

Listen to the prior contributors.
* Brass is readily available, but it may not be cheap.
* Reloading Dies are also readily available.
* Since the brass has only a slight taper you will need to lubricate it for resizing, or pony up for carbide dies,
* Since the brass has only a slight taper, it has a very long life.
* Many powers will work; such as H110, Win 296, IMR 4227/Hodgdon 4227.

My father sold the Universal Carbine I used as a teenager as a punishment when I didn't follow his instructions as to where I was to go to college or what degree I was to get.

I hope you get more use from yours than I did from mine.

Click to expand...

cfullgraf said:

Most, if not all of the manufacturers of 30 Carbine carbide sizing dies recommend lubricating the cases when using their carbide sizing dies.

Some folks do not use lubricant with 30 Carbine carbide dies and, yes, the cases get resized. But things go much better with 30 Carbine if one lubricates the cases even if the dies are carbide.

This thread has got me interested in getting one of my 30 Carbines out for some "exercise". Maybe some "sweet music" from my Rockola carbine.

Click to expand...

I most wholeheartedly agree that even with carbide sizing dies, you need to lube your cases. 30 carbine is not a straight wall case. It is relatively straight, but has a slight taper through most of the case body. The whole case body grows when the cartridge is fired, and is most difficult to resize without lube. That's also why you need to trim your cases often. 30 carbine headspaces on the case mouth, and if the case grows too much, or resized too often without trimming, the case is lengthened as you resize, and the case head may protrude when the round is chambered, not allowing the bolt to close properly.

My wife shot one years ago at service rifle games. Over several different flavors of store bought ammo we never really had an issue....we also never really found one that was head and shoulders over the others.

I do reload for it now, and had saved all the brass over the years....there are no real traps IMHO over anything else that people normally load for. If you still have all your fingers I doubt you will have an issue.

And I also use 110.

Only bullet issue I came across, and this was also years ago was finding a good "hunting" bullet for it. But I quit hunting not long after I got my first one so not a real issue.

Really fun little guns, and IMHO the original PDC before the term PDC was used or they turned cool.