Powder sticking hopper and throw body all a sudden.

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CoalCrackerAl

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Shamokin/Coal twp Pa.
It's not a new throw of hopper. Never had this issue before other than a tap would knock it down. The power was 2400. I had to use a bottle brush to get out. The hopper fells oily on the inside. Sure has me baffled. It's a Lyman brass smith.
 
The 'oily' feeling could just be graphite from the powder. Unless you've used some sort of oily lube on it, there should be no oil in the system. It wouldn't hurt to clean the system then relubricate it with graphite.

I do know that on days with very low humidity I will get some powder sticking in my own dispensers, but not too serious. Windy days can increase the amount of static electricity in the air, as well, which also contributes to some These happen in the rather arid place I live. But you live in a more humid climate than I. Maybe that's the culprit, or maybe it is much less humid than normal in your area right now? ? It's amazing how weather can affect our tools and instruments sometimes. Shear speculation on my part, but maybe worth thinking about.
 
Why does everybody say not to leave powder in the measure?
Because they are made out of cheap plastic not really compatible with the residual solvents an nitroglycerin in smokeless powder. I think the oily feel may be an early sign of deterioration. It might wash out.

I rotted out a Redding. It now has a metal hopper. I don't leave the RCBS or Bonanza with hoppers of the same cheap acrylic loaded. The lab glassblower found me a piece of glass tubing to use as a liner in my yellowing CH measure.

Dillon measures are a different plastic. Mine are darkened from being left loaded but are not damaged.

Dramworx makes Pyrex hoppers, which will cure chemical attack and most static cling.
 
I'll take it apart and give it a good clean with hot water and dish detergent. I try not to let powder in it over night. But have when i get tired. Set the charge and let it sit until the next morning. I did that recently with green dot. I do run a small dehumidifier year round.
 
I cleaned it. Took it apart has far as i could go. I used a blow dryer to help it dry. I sprayed the drum around the edges where it fits in the body. With WD 40 Dry lube. I did the dryer sheet trick too. I don't have any graphite. I'll run a hopper full of powder through.
 
It's not a new throw of hopper. Never had this issue before other than a tap would knock it down. The power was 2400. I had to use a bottle brush to get out. The hopper fells oily on the inside. Sure has me baffled. It's a Lyman brass smith.

Extra cold and dry in your area? Sounds like static. Doesn't hurt to grab a hygrometer, like 11 bucks on amazon, and stick it in the reloading room. I notice powder sticking in the hopper below 20% RH, once you get down to around 8% you can watch it walk across your scale and the hopper.....throws start to get pretty iffy at that point too. Could also be time to clean the works, some powders leave a residue behind over time.
 
I cleaned it. Took it apart has far as i could go. I used a blow dryer to help it dry. I sprayed the drum around the edges where it fits in the body. With WD 40 Dry lube. I did the dryer sheet trick too. I don't have any graphite. I'll run a hopper full of powder through.
Your powder is coated in graphite. Just running a 1/2 pound of powder through the dispenser will coat all surfaces in graphite. I have never used any other lube in my dispensers and I don't know if WD40 Dry is made of.. slicone lube maybe? . Like Jak said, rub it with a dryer sheet to help dispell the static. I store my hoppers with a dryer sheet inside it.
 
Here is info on it. I use it on my dies too.
https://www.wd40.com/products/dry-lube/

WD-40 Specialist® Dry Lube with PTFE is a dry lubricant that keeps your equipment running smoothly with long-lasting corrosion protection that does not attract dirt, dust, or oil. It provides superior lubrication and long-lasting corrosion protection with no oily residue. Best used where cleanliness and maximum performance are required as it dries quick leaving behind a lubricating film that resists dirt, dust and oil buildups. Great for reducing friction and wear on blades and bits, door and window tracks, slides, conveyor belts, rollers, hinges, table saws, lathes, power tools and equipment. Effective in temperatures ranging from -50°F to 500°F
 
My measures rotor will get "sticky" or start to bind a little on occasion, when it does/they do I use Tuf-Glide on it and then let it air out/dry overnight, then use it. I don't know if Tuf-Glide is any better or any worse than other dry lubes out there. 3/4 drops does it, been using a bottle for many years. It didn't use to say cleaner/dry lube/protectant, IIRC, just dry lube, but it will make some black crud run out if something is real dirty, then let dry and use. Now they have a "Marine" Tuf-Glide.
 

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I use dry lube all the time on my press, it doesn't hurt anything at all. On plastic sliding parts, like Lee presses are made out of, I have found that Silicone works better though. It last longer than dry, aerosol lube does.
I have a can of American Industries dry lube but I can't say it's any better than CRC dry lube that you can buy at Wallmart.
I have a humidity gauge in my loading room because where I live, in winter, it gets like a desert around here and static is just awful.

I'm already having trouble with static cling in my measure, Pa wasn't any different, in fact I think it was worse. Once it gets really cold out. like below freezing, the static is a real issue. No moisture in the air.
It's not the powder, it's the time of year.
 
I cleaned it. Took it apart has far as i could go. I used a blow dryer to help it dry. I sprayed the drum around the edges where it fits in the body. With WD 40 Dry lube. I did the dryer sheet trick too. I don't have any graphite. I'll run a hopper full of powder through.

A used anti static dryer sheet ( cling free) is all I have ever needed.
 
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