no probs buddy;
22 short is a very short case with very little powder,or no powder,
if specified. it is usually a 29 grain round, the no powder ones will be 20 grain rounds. They are very quiet. their accuarcy can be very wild, even when you\
find an accurate round in this, you will be limited to about 30 yds. very little power for the bullet to go any further. everything I have written here,
applies to the 22 long as well, just does it in a longer case. the dif being, if you
have a bolt action , mag fed 22 lr rifle, you may be able to feed shoot, and cycle the 22 long rounds through it, a 22 short will never reliably feed and cycle through something meant only for 22 long rifle. 22 shorts usually are meant for single shot rifles, and for tube feds. though Marlin and some other makers have made mag fed rifles, that will do shorts only, or all three.
10/22 is the short name for the rifle made by Ruger; the Ruger 10.22. it is
not a round.
Bolt fed rounds have no adv or disadv. one over the other, whether they are mag
fed or tube fed rifles. if you are a competition shooter, we can talk about , balance ,harmonics, changing harmonics, weight distribution, etc., add nauseum, but for 99% of us, the diff in supposed, theoretical , accuracy diff-
erences is too small. diff between bolt fed and semi auto are a little bit more
pronounced, but again, not enough for our purposes here. Again, all things being equal, the bolt fed, theoretically be more accurate than a semi auto.
This price range will vary just as much as if they were brand new. so i would
not use this as a criteria for used, simply give yourself a chance to look at everything, from a boltie savage or marlin, all the way up to a cooper, kimber , volquartzen, montana, etc.
look through the sites, see if you get a good site picture. feel their balance, should be right in front of the trigger guard. Does the weight feel good in your
hands, do all the parts 'fit' together nicely or is there big gaps , screws missing, etc. look inside the receiver. is it nice and smooth, no poc marks,
no dig lines in it. pull the bolt out, or have the store do it. look at the face of the bolt, should be nice and pretty, with no chinks or holes in the face of it. any extracor clip thingy on it, of pulling out the shot cartridge, should have a nice, smooth pointy , claw on it, notone that is bent , jagged, etc.of course over all condition, rust spots, wood conditions, etc. to me , rust spots are nothing, but unless the weapon is VERY OLD, it should have no rust pitting.
this shows a sign of neglect. last but not least, buy a couple of snap caps for it, or buy them right there in the gunstore, and ask the guy if you can cycle a few rounds through
it , see how it feels, see if they work reliably, that the tube or mag works reliably, i would get at least 4 snap caps, to put into the magazine, so that i would know the mag is working fine.
If you plan on going in the woods with it, you may wanna just get a marlin or savage, they will be plenty accurate enough, and you can get them with synthetic stocks, also in stainless steel. these require less maintenance, and the stock will not warp from the changing temps, rain, etc. Also you could do any of the rifles mentioned above , including marlin or savage, get them in stainless, with a laminated stock. laminate wood will not bend or warp, they are heavy and will give you the big boy rifle feel, and will up the cost of the marlin or savage into the 300's, that way you wont feel like you bought a cheapy , low end rifle. personally , I could care less what other peeps think about my toys, as long as i can outshoot them with it.
A target/bench/varmint type rifle type tends to be longer, heavier, wider on the front end of the stock, with maybe a bull barrel. because once bagged on a bench or rested, these bigger heavier rifles tend to move or shake less, once the trigger is being pulled, regardless of operator error.
so you have to ask yourself, do I want something light and handy, which I
can easily hump around in the woods? Thomas Jefferson did, he considered
the best form of exercise to be going out in the woods, alone or in groups,
to be great excercise, not just for the body but for the mind as well.
50million Jefferson fans can't be wrong...
or do you want something that will sit , and sit still on the bench, in the bags
while you target shoot to your hearts content?
Finally these are all good tips for looking at ANY kind of rifle really. But you seem to have forgotten one thing, a lot of the conditions of the rifle, how the stock should be , synthetic or not, etc., etc., are all predicated on you
only having one .22!!!! DID YOU HEAR THAT GUYS?? one .22, now thats
funny! I have had about a million, and will proly get another million. I currently have a 70 year oldie with a factory peep site simply because i allways wanted a very oldie with a factory peep site, a pawn shop semi auto, a single shot, a 10.22, a remmy semi auto, the speedmaster, which is the only semi-auto I have ever found, that would reliably do semi auto , with short, long, long rifle, and will do them interchangeably. These are just some of the ones I have now. the beauty is, hunting them down , used, in pawnshops or gunstores, for under 100 bucks, and seeing what you can do with them.
This is why there are, and have been, more mfgrs of 22 rifles, 22 pistols,
22 revolvers, 22 bullets, than any other type of bullet / firearm ever. they know us,
they know we are fools for the little gems, and they know what they make is
addicting. So good luck to you, and my heart goes out to you, if you
are unfortunate as hell to get stuck on tricking out 10.22's....
). It's not so fantastic out of the box but it's highly customizable - so customizable that you can turn it from a fairly innacurate gun with poor ergonomics into a match grade rifle with superb ergonomics. If you want the king of semi-auto .22s, get a 10/22 and spend loads of money upgrading it - or just build one from scratch. However, if you want a gun that performs pretty damn well right out of the box, it's not for you.
