S&W 642 Dry-Fire Question

Is it ok to dry-fire without snap caps? I was under the impression that most modern revolvers are alright to dry-fire, because of the addition of the transfer bar.

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Yes, for the most part that is correct due to the frame mounted pin. The thing is though, I have still heard tell of damage to the most modern of revolvers from dry-firing .. but it's true that the chances are far lessened. I very much believe that even if that is true.. snap caps are affordable and readily available, so why not use them and save yourself the possible trouble. I think you'll be just fine dry firing though until you can get yourself a pack or two.

If it's not ok to dry-fire without snap caps, can we use fired brass instead?

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Nope, no point in that. If spent brass would do the job, then why would anyone offer snap caps ? You need something that will offer resistance to the pin while giving just a little bit.

On their website S&W says it's OK to dryfire centerfire revolvers. Using snapcaps can't hurt. The 642 does not have a transfer bar system and as far as I know neither does any Smith revolver including the newer ones with the frame mounted firing pins.

I mean, I can't imagine fired brass being much different. The "primer" area on a snap cap wears out over time, and so would the primer on an empty casing. What's the difference, except for the snap caps costing me 10 bucks a pack and being machined out of aluminum?

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I use the plastic kind, the type with springs in them that cushion the blow from the firing pin. I would think they last a lot longer than a fired case.

I believe I also heard that you can make them by using an unprimed case & gluing a piece of pencil eraser in the firing pin cavity.

I dunno - they aren't too expensive & I use them "just in case".

Though S&W apparently is ok with dryfiring (that is, sans snapcaps) their revolvers, for reasons unknown Taurus forbids its users from dryfiring their similar in design (to Smith's ) revolvers. Go figure.

Once the primer in a fired case is dented, it doesn't do much to soften the firing pin blow. That's what snap-caps are for. You don't have to use them, but if you don't the firing pin will have to batter against something else...

While it isn't common, firing bins do break, and firing pin springs can get mashed. If your revolver is a defensive weapon it seems foolish to take unnecessary chances. But that's up to you.

I have my first 640 marked "tested +P+" and have probably dry fired it thousands and thousands or rounds. Not one single problem whatsoever. When I first got it the action was stiff so I removed the side plate and polished where the hammer was rubbing on the side plate. She's as slick as can be, no not as good as a k frame, but much better. Makes hitting things much easier too.

I have my first 640 marked "tested +P+" and have probably dry fired it thousands and thousands or rounds. Not one single problem whatsoever.

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That's sometimes the case, but you miss the point. While the pin in your revolver hasn't broken (at least so far) others have. Considering that these kinds of revolvers are usually kept and/or used as weapons, why take unnecessary chances?

Dry-firing is a great (and safe) way to smooth out any revolver action, but why batter the firing pin while doing it?

Dry fire OK. I dry fired my 642 100+ times before firing and it worked the trigger so it was nice when I finally did shoot it. It has eaten over 600 rounds and the trigger gets better & better.

Ironically, I broke a 642's firing pin after dry-firing repeatedly WITH snapcaps. On my current 642, I've been dry-firing away without them and nothing bad's happened.

I just bought a smith and wesson M&P 40c, and in the manual, it states that it is safe to dry-fire all smith and wesson handguns (revolvers and autoloaders) with the exception of the .22 revolvers. If you want some snap caps, get some deprimed cases and fill the primer pockets with form-a-gasket from autozone.

cheap and easy.
I have some full weight snapcaps i made by seating and crimping a bullet and using the form-a-gasket. excellent for practicing reloading. work like a charm in a 19-4 k frame

Justin.

Never dry fire any gun without snap caps. It is bad for your gun. Everytime I see someone do it I just want to slap them.

Rancid; the question becomes however, if S&W says it's OK to dry fire their guns, except for the 22 caliber, then why do you say it's bad for your gun? I have a model 13 with the firing pin attached to the hammer. Without a round in the cylinder, there is nothing for the firing pin to hit and therefore what could break the firing pin? Inquiring minds want to know. Thx... Mike....

You can fire without, but use them when you can. Espescially good for reloading practice. Try A-zooms or other action proving rounds.

I've dry fired mine probably about 400-500 times by now. The trigger smooths out nicely at around 300. I have CTs on it and they help me with trigger control and point shooting. I've never used snap caps or spent shells.

Dry Fire

S&W has a lifetime warranty and they pay the shipping both ways for warranty repairs. Think about it.

What do you think the odds are that they want to pay shipping and repairs for tens of thousands of their products for free? If there were any doubt in their mind about dry firing they would require or recommend snap caps and not just any snap caps....only those recommended and with the S&W logo.

If they even thought in their wildest dreams this would potentially damage the firearm it would be in BIG BLACK BOLD letters along with all the other legal rigamarole that takes up the first five pages of the manual.

WARNING: Dry firing your Smith and Wesson handgun may damage or cause premature wear of your handgun. Smith and Wesson recommends Smith and Wesson snap caps only (they are special) and these can be purchased at your local authorized S&W Dealer or at our webstore, WWW.SmithWesson.com.

I agree 100% DAdams. 20nickels, not to start a debate, but I have never been the type of person who does something just because that's the way my daddy and his daddy before him said so. Just because they said it, doesn't make it right. So, the answer of; "You can fire without, but use them when you can" is not the right answer. If I'm going to do something, it has to be because there is a good reason.

Do you know how many people waist hundreds and thousands of dollars getting their oil changed every 3000 miles in their cars? Do you realize that if you look at the owner's manual, the majority of vehicles; even my 1994 truck and Explorer say to change oil every 5000 miles unless you are doing serious towing. Many manufacturers even show in the manual 7500 miles. Even the oil companies like Exxon/Mobile recommend 5000 miles. Hell, these people even make synthetic that supposedly is good for 10,000-15,000 miles. You would think that the oil companies and car manufacturers would want more of your money and recommend 3000 miles. No, it's daddy and grandpa who had cars in the 30's-50's where there was single weight oil and 3000 was correct. Now, you have the Jiffy-Lubes of the world wanting more of your money.

Same here is appears. Not for money reasons, but because; "That's the way we always did it". I do search this question on occasion to see if there are any reasons. Most of my guns have the firing pin in the frame. Therefore, guns like my sig P220, which is very expensive, is very dear to me. If there are possibilities of damaging it, I am wanting to know. But looking at my Model 13 revolver, with the firing pin on the hammer. Then looking at the path the hammer travels to hit what would be a primer of a bullet, had one been there, I don't see one thing that the firing pin can get damaged on. The hammer won't allow the firing pin to continue on. The isn't anything in the cylinder so nothing to hit the firing pin.

Now, i do still want to do more researching on the semi-autos I have as well as some of my rifles. These aren't guns I normally have a reason to dry fire. But, I'd like to know. I only dry fire the rifle after I'm done shooting/hunting for the day and I take the last bullet out of the magazine/chamber. The rifle is cocked and the only way to let it down is to dry fire it. I suppose I could put an empty cartridge in the chamber, but it's not that often. Anyway, still an interesting topic. Later... Mike...