Shortened my 1851 Navy

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happybrew

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I have a brass framed Pietta 1851 Navy, .44 caliber. I was bored yesterday, and gave in to the urge to shorten it. It's kind of a spare pistol, I have a steel framed one also, so I felt okay playing with it. I have minimal tools in my garage, so I knew going into it that I would have to improvise and

So I removed the loading lever, put the barrel in the vice, and used a reciprocating saw with a hacksaw blade to cut the barrel down to 5 inches from 7.5. Then I put a grinder on the electric drill and smoothed out the front end of the barrel and made it as close to square and flat as I could get it without precision tools. It looked good. Then I put a ball grinder on the drill and re-crowned it. Again, no problems. So far, so good.

Here's where it gets tricky. I went to Sportsman's and looked around, picked up a green dot sight for a shotgun. It looked like the best option given what else they had in stock. I have nothing to tap the barrel with. There were no simple press-on post sights like those installed. The good news, the screw was slightly smaller than post sight. I can order one off the internet and drill a larger hole if need be. Or I can cut off another half inch or so and start fresh if it doesn't work out. Anyway, as an expedient measure, I drilled a hole the size of the screw, and tapped the sight into the hole with a hammer. It wouldn't stay in. So I applied Super Glue and pressed it back in. It stayed, and is very secure. It's not the prettiest solution, but it works, and it doesn't look bad.

So what do you all think will happen when I fire it? Will the recoil or the heat damage the bond? I didn't think it likely, but now I'm wondering. Again, I can go back and re-do it if need be, and order proper parts from Dixie gun or another internet retailer. But does anyone have any experience with using Super Glue on a black powder firearm? They don't seem to get as hot as a modern design, and the recoil doesn't seem too intense, so my first impression is that it should be okay. But I thought I'd throw this out there to see if anyone else has done something similar. Again, I was bored, and decided to fiddle around with it.

BTW, the revolver handles a lot better with the shorter barrel. I don't know what the accuracy will be, though. It fired one inch groups on the first cylinder at 30 feet, standing, weaver stance, accuracy decreasing with subsequent cylinders due to fouling. I don't expect that now, but we'll see what it tests out at.

happybrew

Edit: Here are the pictures.

The tools

IMG_0127.png

The results

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Comparison: Top is an original sized Colt 1851 Navy, middle is the newly shortened Colt 1851 Navy, and bottom is a NAA mini revolver

IMG_0123.png

My camera isn't the best, and I didn't have the best light. Had I been able to use better light, I could have shown you the crown and the front sight up closer.
 
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neat!

For what it's worth, the old timers would sometimes make front rifle sights by cutting off a section of an old silver dime or quarter.. I reckon then soldering it on?
 
Super Glue does not survive shock loading, so I expect that firing the gun will eventually cause it to fail. Get some blue Loctite at the hardware store - much better adhesive for that application.

Or simply solder it in place. That's not as easy as the Loctite as it requires the gun barrel to be heated up. Use a propane torch directly on the hole and heat it up gradually and be sure to flux the metal. You will need very little solder in the hole. The sight will also need to be hot, so you'll need to hold it in the flame with some pliers at the same time you are heating the barrel. Remove the heat and press the sight into place as soon as the solder melts. This operation requires some advance planning as it kind of needs three hands: one for the torch, one for the sight and one for the solder.
 
Bobin' yer barrel

Howdy,

Like to recomend you spend about 30-40 bucks for a Wheeler Engineering dovetail cutting kit. Has a hardened clamp-on cutting jig and a blind side triangle file. I think I got mine from Midway or Brownells. Follow the directions and you'll be cutting dovetail slots in about ten minutes! It's really easy on octagon barrels.

For sights I like to use a Uberti dovetail mounted Remington front sight blade on my Colts to replace the little brass acorn bead. VTI Gunparts or DGW has 'em for about five bucks a pop. They'll be about 1/16 inch too high but are easy to file down until your hitting the black. I've seen several pictures of real antique Colts with cut down barrels and/or dovetail mounted front sights so It's nothing new: period correct if you will...;)

Slim
 
Personally, I'd go with JB weld if I needed to glue something like that. It'll hold up a lot better than super glue, and I believe it's rated for something like 600 degrees.

On the other hand, you can probably get a tap and drill bit the right size at any hardware store for around $10.
 
I tried the JB weld, both with this one and with a rifle project, and it just didn't hold. We'll see what happens when I fire it. Pictures will follow soon, but my camera sucks. I couldn't get clear shots of all angles, and the shots I did get leave much to be desired.
 
I just realized you didn't rework the loading lever - you just left it off. Isn't that a problem?
 
No, leaving the loading lever off is not a problem. I still have the lever, and simply put the screw back in. If I need to load it I can either use the other revolver to load the cylinder or else put the loading lever back in and load it. If I need a quick re-load, I would swap out for a pre-loaded cylinder. If I don't need a quick reload, putting the lever back on would not add substantially to the already time-consuming process of loading it to begin with.
 
this sounds like a fun project to me! but i would deff. want to put the reloading lever back on. which leads me to wonder if its worth the effort vs just ordering a different gun. still looks fun.
 
That is what happens when you get stuck indoors in wintertime and
get very bored, with an old brass frame cap'n'ball revolver and
too much free time on your hands.

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The fit between the loading lever, barrel and screw is tight.
It actual stays put (most of the time) through six shots.
The loading lever on my 1858 Remington copy is more likely
to drop from recoil, even though though it does have a catch.

===========

Added: I often slip a .38-55 casing over the end of the lever for
more, well, leverage.
 
which leads me to wonder if its worth the effort vs just ordering a different gun.

But then you miss the fun of working on it to see what you can do!

Actually, I like Carl N. Brown's revolver a lot. I will probably work on it some more, take another half inch or an inch off of it and take up some of the other suggestions regarding the front sight. I'd like to put on the loading lever too, and I think I can work up a fix for that. But if not, it's not a big deal for me. I hope to shoot it this weekend and see if the sight stays on.

happybrew
 
Firing results

I fired a cylinder through it today while out scouting deer. It hit about two inches to the left of point of aim at 15 feet, elevation was OK. I wiggled the front sight after firing all six shots. The front sight came right off.

The superglue did not hold up to firing. I will try locktight next.
 
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