what am i doing wrong?

You probably have crud building up on the ejector rod and cylinder.

With the crane open, does the cylinder spin freely? If not, read the directions about how to remove the cylinder and do a cleaning.

I had the same problem with my S&W M&P340 and traced it to the above problem, particularly when firing (lead) reloads. It starts to bind up after 60 to 70 rounds. Disassembly and cleaning fixes it.

My 640, OTOH, does not have such binding until perhaps 400 rounds of reloads are fired--and it comes on much more slowly.

Jim H.

Have someone else at the range fire the gun. You'll know if it's user error pretty quickly. If so, you'll have to eat more Wheaties. If not, clean it. If that doesn't work, see a different gunsmith.

Just a guess, but check that you don't have a bunch of crud built up under the ejector star or that your cylinders aren't very dirty, such that the rounds aren't seating completely. If you shoot lots of .38spl, but were only having this problem shooting .357magnums, I'd say check if the .38spls finally left enough residue that the .357s couldn't seat. At any rate, as the cylinder rotates, an unseated round may be contacting the back of the frame. Since they can't get pushed in freely, it feels like the trigger is freezing up.

My .22LR revolver has very tight chambers, and quicky become dirty enough that not all the rounds seat, in which case, I get similar symptoms.

am i doing something wrong?

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Neglecting to use your shift key, for starters.

Range reloads?

Could be some of them had high primers and were binding up on the recoil shield.

BTW: It's pretty impossible to "operator error" a revolver!
You pull the trigger, it goes bang. You pull the trigger again, it goes bang again.

If it doesn't, there is clearly something wrong with either the gun or the ammo.


rcmodel

if it means anything, this occurred more frequently with the 357 rounds.

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I just saw this. You said you were breaking in your GP100. Is this a new gun? I'm guessing it's used. If you have an empty .357magnum case, drop it into each cylinder. It ought to drop all the way in pretty easily. If you have to push it to get it to seat, you probably have to soak the cylinder in some Hoppes for a good bit, then use some elbow grease and a brass brush to scrub out the heavy residue ring left by umpteen zillion .38spl rounds.

i'm almost positive it's user error

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And I am not ! Me thinks it's a problem for Ruger to correct .

Look into the chambers in the cylinder and make sure they are clean now that oyu have cleaned the gun. Then go back to the range and shoot it some more. And don't worry about Standing Wolf.

Two possibles - 1) the rounds are unseating causing either the bullet to protrude from the front and interfer with rotation past the forcing cone or the case rim is pused out and interfering with rotation by the anvil; 2) you are short stroking the trigger causing a bind in either the trigger mech or the hand rotating the cylinder. Try some better quality ammo and/or slap the front of the trigger guard with your finger until you learn exactly where the break occurs. Maybe...

hyphen . . .

As was mentioned before, it's difficult to have a user error with a revolver, and the fact that you have fired it at all shows that you know how to operate the gun.

You mentioned an instance where the cylinder didn't cycle. That indicates to me a problem in the lockwork within the frame. You also mentioned that the gun was NIB. That opens up the possibility that there might be a metal shaving or some other manufacturing detritus floating around in the action. Stuff like that happens. I have found junk inside of new guns before, and that can cause intermittent problems.

It might pay to read the manual and find out how to open the gun up and see if any nasties are in there. Also check to see if there are any burrs on the slot through which the pawl operates. If you do open the gun, be very careful if you decide to pull the trigger with the trigger assembly out of the gun. The pawl spring can sometimes get itself lost on the other side of the room if you don't pay attention.

I strongly doubt that the problem is due to crud on the cylinder or associated parts. If that was tying up the gun you would have had a difficult time opening or closing the cylinder and you didn't mention such a thing.

If the problem persists after an inspection and cleaning of the interior, then I think it might be time to talk to Ruger.

I'd just send it to Ruger. I really get uneasy about mysterious problems in a serious firearm. Even if it suddenly stopped 'jamming' I wouldn't trust it... I mean WHY did it do that and how do I know the problem won't return?

Revolvers are simple as can be and you shouldn't be having this problem. I'd send it back to Ruger and ask them for a real explanation of what the problem is/was.

Call Ruger, get an RA, and send it in.

I owned a GP-100 and an SP-101, both in .357--and neither were like that. Even after you break them in, they won't have the smooth action of the Smith revolver works--but I never had any problems like you are describing.

As for the finger 'wear' problems--that one is a user problem--for me, the problem was simply conditioning and learning to grip a revolver correctly. If you are not in the best condition--i.e., using that hand for work, like a carpenter--you have more than enough strength to grip it, but are using some muscles to counteract others. Conditioning solves that problem, and shooting solves the acclimation problem.

I've shot over 5,000 rounds in the last four months out of S&W j-frames, and my shooting (right) hand now has a noticable callous on the inside index joint; before that developed, I would tear it up from trigger bite. I also developed a callous in the web, finally--but I had much wear and tear there, too, and would bleeding each time--particularly after shooting my M&P 340 (13.3 oz, 38+P loads). Stay at it, and it'll all go away.

Meanwhile, send your GP 100 in. Since it's a new gun, Ruger will fix it for free, I am sure. At this point, I wouldn't consider getting a different revolver. However, if you are turning into a gunny, then it may simply be time to buy another one. I ended up buying four j-frames and a 686 this year, and now my eyes are on the S&W 'classics' they've just introduced....

Jim H.

disappointed

hyphen: Sir; I feel your frustration. I like to be there and see for myself.
Ruger builds good solid durable guns. That being said; sometimes from the factory of any product; crap happens.
I got here late and maybe you already have it in a box. I assume not.
If we were standing together I would have you load it. Cycle without firing; a number of times. The hang up should appear. The ejector may have a burr; the transfer bar could be binding with a burr; the shells could be hanging on the side of the frame not allowing rotation; the cylinder lock could be binding not allowing the cylinder to release. The actual cylinder pawl could be hanging on the ejector.
Rotating the unit with it loaded should find the problem. It is a good unit and Ruger has good service intentions.
call them @603-865-2442 ask them for a 'RGA' [return goods authorization] number and will they send a box for it. Expain NEW: and send in the box 'a best description' note.
Follow up with your findings.
Thanks

Several years ago I had a similar problem with my service six, cleaning it didn't seem to help until I really cleaned the back of the barrel and the front of the cylinder. It took care of the problem for me. rugerman

Several years ago I had a similar problem with my service six, cleaning it didn't seem to help until I really cleaned the back of the barrel and the front of the cylinder. It took care of the problem for me.

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But did you have that problem after a mere 30 rounds, like the OP?

I wouldn't mess with it. Brand new gun? I'd send it in... on Ruger's dime.

Does this happen with rounds loaded with jacketed bullet as well as lead bullets? I've noticed that the GP100s I've shot with lead bullets show similar symptoms to yours and require frequent cleaning of the front of the cylinder. I think that the barrel cylinder gap is small.