Show me YOUR PICS of.....

Here are some that I have done in DuraCoat.

Sig P226

Before:



After: (I dinged the take down lever re-assembling before the DuraCoat had fully cured. )





One of my SKS's that I did.

Before:



After:





And finally an AR-15 receiver I did for a friend.

Before:



After:



I wish I had the picture of the finished AR that this receiver was the basis for. It came out really nice!


None of these jobs were particularly hard. Just lots of disassembly, cleaning, degreasing, more cleaning, etc. The prep work on all the pieces amounted to roughing up the surfaces with steel wool. As can be seen on the Sig, don't be in a rush to put the weapon back together, no matter how badly you want to see it! Until the product is fully cured it will scratch easily. Other than that I can say that it has held up really, really well. I am love with this stuff!

All the stuff pictured here was done with the cheap airbrush kit that Lauer Custom Weaponry sells and it has served me very well.

Any questions just ask!

My WASR-10 (finish is still the same-and on the first coat I put on 4 years ago, but I switched it back to the orginal wood furniture after sanding, staining, and some tung oil).Century's original finish looked pretty crappy.A $5 can of flat black Rustoleum High Temp BBQ paint, and it looks great now.The paint literally dries completely in just a couple minutes (almost instantly if you blow on it or use a fan!), almost impossible to get it to run, is really quite dureable, and it good for up to 1400 F according to the can.I know I got it SUPER hot a few times, and it showed no smokeing, bubbling, or even discoloration.Cant be beat for the price, honestly.Came out looking as good as the duracoat an such I've seen on most guns. Only downside may be a lack of color and gloss selection. I dont think there are but a couple choices, but if your looking for flat black, I'd highly recommend it.I know a few others who have tried it too and claimto have been very pleased also.Just clean off the metal real good with any degreaser (I used aerosol brake cleaner) and should be good to go.

Before




After

I have used flat black engine enamel to touch up guns. I just clean the gun up, tape off everything I don't want to paint and give it a few light coats. It blends well with the flat black coating most gunsmiths seem to use these days.

I also resanded the disgusting looking original wood, stained and sanded it 3 times with red maghagony from home depot then coated with satin polyurethane.

Before:


After:

Exposure, where did you find the red/white paint for doing the selector markings on your AR?

Norrel Moly-Resin on the Ballester-Molina:

Built this one from scratch out of a Pakawood blank. Clear coated with an automotive polyurethane then color sanded and polished to a glass like finish.

Yeah, this is a great thread. Is there a FAQ somewhere here on THR about refinishing firearms? I have an old wheelgun and an sks that would make interesting refinishing projects. I'd like to know what's involved with taking them down and gunkoting them.

IIRC, I seem to recal him mentioning in an earlier thread that he used grease pencil.

I re-stained the wood on my Remington 1740, but after that 10/22, I'm ashamed of posting such an atrocity!

Hey Jessel, that looks nice! Just wondering how well that Norrel stuff holds up, is it as durable as they say it is?

Krylon fusion, easy as pie

Very nice job Exposure! I love the "reverse" two tone on Sigs (and Berettas).

Eyesac said:

Hey Jessel, that looks nice! Just wondering how well that Norrel stuff holds up, is it as durable as they say it is?

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As long as you do your part in the surface prep, it's very durable and it really does seem to be somewhat self lubricating. It needs a very toothy surface to adhere to, so sandblasting the surface or applying it over parkerizing it is a necessity.

Mine's in this thread.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=349342

Duracoat. Used the air brush kit from their site. Followed directions, used a fan/heater combo set at 80 to speed up the process and harden better. Definitely get the clear. Makes it look much cleaner. Took me 2 days. I set up a paint booth with drop cloths hanging from the ceiling in the garage and suspended it with fishing wire.

btw

Click to expand...

That is just beautiful

is that an M&P?

Looks like an XD to me. In the top picture you can see the SA-XD logo.

I recently repainted the barrel on an Ithaca 37 I cut back to 18.5 inches. I used Brownells bake on finish. You MUST bead blast. The first time I tried the bake on, I just roughed up the surface with coarse paper. After baking, the finish started coming off, and could be scratched off with a fingernail.

I bead blatser all the finish and tried again. After the second bake, the stuff is hard and durable. Now I need to pain the rest of the gun.

I'm pretty sure it's an XD also. You can see where the grip safety came out.

.177 Daisy rat killer, Krylon Fusion, no stencils, just sprayed on free-hand, pretty simple...

These are all Duracoat.

Bulgie Mak:



Tokarev:


CZ-52:

I'll try to remember this thread the next time I see a heavily-discounted gun with lots of finish wear.