Reload Mil Spec brass

The first decapping might be a little rough, but after you swage the pockets that will go away. I loaded my 7.62nato brass the same as .308win, but I was close to min loads with good results.

I used a RCBS heavy duty decapping die to deprime all my .mil brass. I've also broken quite a few pins in the process! I think the toughest is the .308 brass with a primer that's been staked in.

When I decap military brass I use the same setup as with commercial brass. The only difference is that I'm a little more cautious of how much pressure I'm exerting on the press - I've never broken a decapping pin but some of those primers are crimped in real good.

Removing crimped in primers isn't a challenge - they still come out the same way when you decap. If the brass was fired in a machine gun or if the brass is much thicker though, resizing itself can take some extra effort. When I resize military 7.62 I remove the decapping stem on the first run through the dies. That sizes the casing and makes the mouth round again if needed. The next run I put the decapping stem back in and decap. This also sizes the cases again just to take care of any stragglers.
Removing the crimp from the casing will require a special tool.
I've used standard .308 loads for the 7.62 Nato brass but the data from my Speer manual was recorded with IMI brass. It notes that specifically.
If I weren't working with that scenario, I'd go to a minimum load and reduce by 10% as a starting point.
For the brass, separate it until and unless you know for sure that you can safely use the same data for both different types.
The construction could be different enough to cause pressure problems if you just switch back and forth. This is the same precaution that should be used any time you switch any components.

When reloading, I always look at the cost savings.
Then I look at what my particular problem is.
Then I say to myself "these bullets cost me $25. My eyesight can't be replaced for that. My gun can't be replaced for that. Even one of my spare magazines costs more than that."
It helps keep things in perspective.

I would suggest the simple Lee decapping pin and base for military brass. Quick and durable, although like anything else they will break in time. I have decapped a "few" thousand with them, still use them.

The military crimp needs to be removed for reloading. It can be done (slowly) with the tip of a deburring tool as long as you just remove the crimp and don't overdo it. RCBS makes a die for the purpose but I never cared for it, quit it early on. The best IMHO is the Dillon purpose built tool--very good, but it is not cheap.

GI brass is a bit heavier, and to be safe I would cut the load by 10% for starters. Garand op rods are getting expensive. My M2 ball load is 47.0 gr 4895 and the 152 grain M2 bullet. My Garands use either that or the 168 gr. Sierra match bullet and the same charge.

I still have some WWII dated brass loaded up and routinely use TW52 brass. No issues as far as I'm concerned.

MG fired brass can be harder to resize but you aren't likely to run into much of it in '06. However, pay attention to trim length, proper headspace as per a step case gauge and make darned sure your primers are seated slightly below the case head to preclude slam fires. Also, don't load single rounds into the chamber of the M1 and let the bolt go forward full force. Either load from the clip as per normal or use a "sled" to feed the round normally.

I got fed up with messing up decapping rods and breaking pins, so a dedicated punch was my solution. When I started all this happiness as a kid, I just used my pocket knife on the crimp. Heck, I don't even know if they made special tools for that back in 1950. Didn't matter; all I could afford, back then, was a Lyman 310 tong tool.

GI '06 brass holds about three grains less powder than commercial. I guess I'd call "max" somewhere around two grains below the book, for bolt-action.

Garand? I think several sources give the 4895 load that's appropriate for GI brass...

Resize the first time with a Small Base die or you might find that the brass will not chamber in your rifle.

1 & 2 have already been answered. HXP has a very light crimp. I've heard some reloaders don't even bother remiving the crimp. I still give it a spin with chamfer tool. The IMI brass I've reloaded (no 30-06) seemed to have a heavy crimp that offers more resistance when decapping and needs more attention to getting the crimp removed.

I have never reloaded but I see you can reload mil-spec cartridges. Does this also hold true to the 5.56? And it possible to buy bulk brass? Not tring to thread jack but I thought this was possible but never heard of someone doing it.

1. How do you remove the crimped in primers. Same as regular primers, or is there a "stiffer" decap pin to use?

2. I have some loads worked up for commercial brass. I understand that the mil-spec is heavier, and I should lighten my load some. How much? 5%, 10%?

3. I am using a mix of IMI and Greek HXP brass. Any difference?

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A Universal Decapping die is a very useful tool to have. I have decapped thousands of crimped primers with my Lyman Universal Decapping die, and have never broken a decapping pin. While there can be a big difference in case capacity between 7.62x51 and .308 Win. brass, such is usually not the case (no pun intended) with commercial and military .30-06 brass. Infact, Lapua brass and LC M72 brass are very similar, and I use the same load in both. Winchester and Norma brass are quite light, and if your current commercial brass loads use either of these brass, then I would drop back about 2 grains. Dropping back 10% is much too much.

Don

I have never reloaded but I see you can reload mil-spec cartridges. Does this also hold true to the 5.56? And it possible to buy bulk brass?

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surplus brass here

Dillion is your friend. I bought about 10k rounds of 5.56 mil. years ago when Wideners had it cheap.
www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25263/catid/8/Super_Swage_600
Glad I bought mine years ago when it cost about $75.