Reloading with steel cases (45 ACP)

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scalper

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I keep seeing little pieces here and there about reloading a few times using these steel cases. I don't see any reason why it would be a problem assuming one is careful about inspection and doesn't try it too many times.

Besides, I can use a magnet to pick the things up at the range.

Anyone have any experience reloading steel cases? Any suggestions or advice?
 
I do it all the time in 223 but seems like a lot of people are "overly cautious" about it just in case. I have reloaded some 6 times and only lost 3 or 4 out of 100. Best thing to do is stand them all up and shine a light in them and check the flash holes. Some of the 223 is berdan and some is boxer, not sure about the 45 or 40. Avoid hot loads and just be extra watchful of the cases and you should be fine.
 
Do you have to add any steps, use special equipment, or do anything different with Steel cases? If not.... then why not reload steel cases?
 
Do you have to add any steps, use special equipment, or do anything different with Steel cases? If not.... then why not reload steel cases?

No. I have read several articles on reloading steel cases in several magazines and none of them indicate that you need do anything different. The only thing any of them suggest is that you inspect them a little more thoroughly, but I suspect that is simply because manufacturers don't intend people to reload steel like they do brass, not due to any innate quality of steel vs brass.
 
Why, when there is so much nice brass cases to reload?

I don't know about you guys, but I can sure tell my budget is pinched these days between paying more for gas and paying more for ammo. Anything to stretch my dollar is a welcome addition, provided it doesn't risk my health.
 
a shooting buddy of mine reloaded a few steel 45 cases as an experiment. he said they reloaded and shot OK, and he could see nothing that would preclude one from doing so.
 
I've been doing it for a while and it is done no differently that brass. If you have any with slight rust that won't come off in the tumbler, trash them. Other than that I load them and shoot them.
Some of us have little to no budget in these trying times. Shooting and reloading is what keeps some of us sane and going from day to day. Not all of us have good jobs and extra money every month, remember that. :eek:
 
It works fine, but steel doesn't last as long as brass (The explanation I have gotten is that the steel doesn't "spring back" the same way as brass).

If you have lots of boxer-primed steel sitting around, put it to use.
 
Today there is a lot of nice brass laying around. Tomorrow? Who knows. Whether or not aluminum and steel are or aren't as good as brass, I want to know it can be done, successfully, with the tools I have.
 
Just be sure to keep the cases clean. Sure, carbide is technically harder than steel, but a scratch in your carbide will leave a mark in every case that goes through the die from now to eternity.

If not using carbide dies, I'd be particularly careful of cleanlieness for this reason. But, as a brass reloader, I'm careful anyway, so just keep it clean and you should be fine. Sounds like lots of folks have done it and it works fine for them.

But keep in mind, rust is oxidation, and oxides are very hard materials that WILL scratch things like carbide and steel dies.

Best of luck. My only thinking is this, I wouldn't start reloading steel in batches of 100s until you have a few small test runs and are happy with the results.
 
A lot of the wolf steel case is... I know the polymer coated .223 and .45 are (don't know about the MC laquer coat version, though).
 
Too many once or twice fired brass cases laying around to fool with steel.

They may do in a serious pinch, but other than that I would not fool with them.
 
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Wolf Military Classic is Berdan primed per Wolf's catalog. The poly-formance is Boxer primed as you know.

One person mentioned aluminum cases. Aluminum has different fatigue properties than brass or steel, and isn't as strong as steel. I would much sooner reload steel than the Blazer aluminum cases. Also, I think the Blazer cases are Berdan primed to discourage reloading, though I'm not certain of that.

So, for those actually doing this, do you run pistol cases dry in carbide dies, and use ordinary case lubes on rifle cases? Just curious, I have to guess that the Wolf coating is pretty slick by itself - but who wants to remove a stuck steel case from a die!
 
Z, I have been doing it for a while now and un them just like brass. I manually de-prime everything with a lee decapper and base then tumble it all. Lube and re-size all my 223 together, steel and brass then load and shoot. I have seen no boxer blazer and personally would not try to reload aluminum. You gots to draw the line somewhere. Load mild and the steel should give you 5 loads then be relegated to the scrap bin. Maybe you could go further, but why chance it? For those of you that have collected steel 223 and don't want to use it, I'll give it a loving home and keep it warm and clean it and care for it, then dispose of it properly. If you need to get rid of some that is taking up space that could be better filled by brass, let me know and I'll take that useless stuff off your hands. :rolleyes:
 
I tried reloading GI steel-case .45 ACP back in the early 60's, and quickly gave up!

Pulled the rims out of two Herters shell-holders, and stuck cases in the die both times.
(No, I didn't pull the rims off the cases, I pulled the machined slots out of the shell-holders themselves!)

Course, that was with a steel sizing die in those almost pre-carbide die days!

And Herters shell-holders were not exactly heat-treated like todays shell-holders are.
Calling them mild steel would be giving them the benefit of the doubt!

rcmodel
 
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