Ruger 10/22 fire control parts - questions

Several years ago, when I was tricking out my 10/22, I got a little overeager with the Dremel and/or other abrasives and took a little too much metal off some of the fire control parts, trying to smooth and lighten the trigger pull. I lightened it, all right, but instead of "breaking like a glass rod," it sort of mooshes like a glass rod, and won't always reset unless I let the trigger snap back.

I also installed a bolt catch, and that is completely unreliable. (It's what I get for buying cheap parts on auction sites.) I want to restore the reliability and still get smooth function without breaking the bank. I'm looking at the Clark Custom deluxe trigger/hammer kit to replace my stock parts. (Should I just buy the whole Power Custom competition trigger kit?)

I also noticed that I can now get the whole stock trigger assembly for under $50. My assembly is metal; the new ones are polymer (aka plastic). Are there disadvantages to the polymer assembly vs. the metal?

At this point, reliability is more important than trigger pull (I can tweak that again later).

Ideas? Thanks.



(Cheap red dot sight immediately replaced with a real scope.)

Excellent! Thanks for the info.

Update

Thanks again for the info and advice. I visited Brownells.com and ordered a Power Custom hammer and sear pack, a PC titanium extended bolt release, and a Volquartsen recoil buffer pin (the last two because I wasn't happy with the cheap ones I had).

The parts are beautiful and fit great, and seems to have cleared all my problems right up. I didn't even have to stone the sear where it meets the safety, thank goodness, per the instructions.

And speaking of instructions, that's my only beef with Power Custom: The "instruction" sheet was woefully inadequate. You know how when you buy something that needs assembly, the first page of the instructions shows you all the parts you're supposed to have, and often helpfully names them? Not in this case. Half of the first page talks about how great the included shims are. Shims! There is a crude line drawing to show where you might have to stone the sear, and there are a couple of exploded diagrams that are nearly illegible and have been cut off near the bottom of the page. Not helpful. And what is a "cheater pin"? Does it replace the OEM assembly pin?

Thanks to Guerrilla Gunsmith for the helpful tutorial.

The end result is that I seem to have parts left over from the kit, and I don't know whether I should have used them. But as long as the gun goes bang, I'll be happy.

One last thing: Is it too much to ask that a manufacturer keep clear, legible master copies of documents on file, instead of just copying the last existing copy from the previous batch? Fifth-generation photocopies are notoriously hard to read.