CZ "Single Set Trigger"?

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bosshoff

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I have been looking at either a CZ 452 Varmint in 17 HMR., or a CZ 453 Varmint in 17 HMR. CZ lists the difference between the two as a "Single Set Trigger" vs. Adjustable trigger. What is the CZ single set trigger? (Please don't just say it is "not adjustable.") I am somewhat familair with the CZ rimfires, and know that there are some kits on the market to "hot-rod" the triggers. Is the single set trigger a good crisp trigger out of the box? Any experience with this trigger is appreciated.
 
I have a CZ550FS and I think the single set trigger is really nice. Actually, the trigger on my rifle is smooth and has a crisp break even when in the non-set position so that's how I shoot it most often. But the set position definitely allows for greater precision. You just have to be careful with it.

Oh, and to "set" the trigger you simply move it forward and it clicks into the set position. Otherwise it operates just like any other normal trigger.
 
On the ones I have fired the trigger is not that crisp until you actually set the trigger. Then it is very light and very crisp.

Like Z said you just push the trigger forward and it is set.
 
agree with Bartkowski; the regular trigger pull , for field work, can be a bit creepy and mushy. but once you 'set' the trigger, it breaks like dried roaches' wings!!!! yummm. If you like, adjust the set trigger pull for a higher weight for field work, that way, if you wanna use it in set mode in the field, just turn up the screw, until the set trigger weight is about 2 or 3 lbs, then you will be fine, and i see no reason to fear an accidental discharge.
 
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233212
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168800

The biggest (and for most, the only) problem wit hthe 452 is the trigger creep. If you shoot in a manner that this is not noticable or important to you, it is the way to go. If you would like to improve the 452 trigger, there are quite a number of aftermarket and home gunsmithing options available. These, however, will require some work on the gun's fire control system and on a few require some stock inletting. If you are not comfortable with doing this type of work, the 453 is the way to go. It is a bit more expensive bit what the trigger will offer you will be as much, if not more, than what the cost and work of modding the 452 trigger will give you. Only shortcoming of the 453 trigger is to remember to set it and the length of pull in set mode (if you use this mode). In the unset mode, it can be adjusted equal to or better than the modded 452 trigger.
 
I just got my second CZ, a 550 Safari in 375 H&H and I cannot tell much difference between set and unset. I can also say the same thing about my 527 in 22 Hornet.

Now I have several Ruger #1's with the aftermarket Kepplinger set trigger and you can really tell the difference there.
 
The set trigger has two modes - normal and "set". When you "set" it by pushing it forward, then it's very nice indeed - well worth the extra money in my opinion. The 453, 527, and 550s all have these.
 
Think of a regular trigger. Now when you put it into set mode you are basically engaging a secondary sear/hammer. When you let this lighter hammer go (pull the trigger while it is set) it swings down and hits the normal sear engagement, knocking it open and letting the rifle fire. The set trigger can be a bit lighter than the regular trigger as it only has to have enough weight to hold its smaller hammer and not the firing pin. Some people love it and others hate it. It does have a longer lock time and to some people they shoot better without it. I love it.

As for the trigger unset (453) you can adjust it to remove the creep and most of the weight. Anyone who says the Single set trigger is creepy unset hasn't shot one that the owner adjusted anywhere near well. Out of the box they do have a bit of creep. With 10 minutes of understanding a bit of trial and error it is as crisp as any trigger out there and can be adjusted to about 1.5 lb. The problem I had with the 452 was that it was so cheap and easy to get the trigger crisp and to any weight from about 8oz to 4 lbs that I couldn't justify the extra money to have the screws to adjust it the same way. If the 452 would be harder to adjust with shims I would have gone 452. If you are willing to work a bit on the gun go with the 452. If you just want to adjust the screws and be done go 453.
 
Great, thanks for all of the replies. I did not understand what CZ meant by a "Set Trigger". You guys explained everything perfectly.
 
One weird thing about the set trigger. If you set it and pull normally, it will fire. But if you grab the trigger between your thumb and index finger having full control of it, and then very slowly push backward, it will unset without firing.
 
Thats because the of how the trigger works and is correct. The trigger itself is what gets "thrown" into the sear that holds the firing pin back. The trigger in its set mode has a second forward sear that it hooks on. When the trigger breaks this light weight sear it has a spring pushing it back into the sear that holds the firing pin. When this hits at speed it drops the firing pin sear and the pin hits the primer. If you hold the trigger when set and slowly pull and hold it you will release the trigger from the set sear but as you slowly release it to the regular sear it doesn't have the momentum it would if not held which leads to it resting again as the regular unset trigger.
 
Hi Premium
I certainly never knew that. After reading your post I took my .308 CZ (used to be known as a BRNO) out of the safe and tried it and you are quite right. I also found that one can apply the safety when the trigger is "set". I bought the rifle new about 40 years ago and hunted in what used to be Rhodesia, but never "set" the trigger until ready to shoot. If I did not fire, I used the bolt to revert to normal and then applied the safety.

If you look at the action when out of the stock, you will see that "setting" the trigger moves the final release of the firing pin to what can be termed a secondary sear, which is then released by light pressure on the inner trigger. It is a truly beautiful mechanism.

After years - not of neglect, but of disuse for many reasons - the rifle is shooting again. It may be only at paper targets, but she is as accurate as ever. Any bad grouping is entirely my fault!
 
You can also "un-set" it safely with the rifles safety on, if you decide not to shoot.

Just put the safety on and touch the set trigger.
It will just click, and revert back to the normal trigger pull.

rcmodel
 
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