hi-tec/low-tec .45 Colt BP loading...

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scrat, it's apparent that several of you here look upon this sub-forum as your own little kingdom, and that you can't wait to try to pick apart a newcomer's post.

This is the Blackpowder Shooting forum.....NOT the muzzleloading forum, civil war weapons forum, CAS forum or buckskinner's forum....shooting cartridges/guns designed in 1873 is plenty enough antique for this forum.....if blackpowder cartridges don't interest you, then pass over the thread.

I'll take issue with your unproven assertion that "most" BP shooters do their own casting/lubing......I'd go as far as to say that most BP shooters purchase 20:1 cast/soft-lubed bullets from specialty suppliers such as www.cowboybullets.com, or (and even more likely) shoot a majority of swaged balls from vendors such as Hornady and Speer, and that most black powder shooters have never run/cast a ball in their life, and certainly don't own a ball mold.....and many of these same shooters have struggled with getting commercial hard-cast to shoot well with BP before giving up in disgust.

Your comment of
Now we all know that low powered cowboy action loads is what we need to be shooting. Not high velocity loads. As we are shooting these out of Cap and Ball Revolvers. We talked about this before
just leaves me scratching my head....most folk would agree "high velocity" and "black powder" are mutually exclusive terms, where you'd be lucky to see 1000fps with a .45Colt using black powder....and "we" don't all shoot C&B revolvers exclusively....

The original post reached out to those/new sorts of shooters, not self-appointed experts. I have been casting/handloading/shooting for over 30yrs, and I wasn't born knowledgeable about any of this stuff.....and neither have been any of the new shooters that show up on sites like this...

New shooters might be more inclined to give BP cartridge or muzzleloading a whirl with simple-to-try kitchen-sink handloading, and might then move on to more advanced methods.....they are certainly scared off by experts proclaiming you have to cast your own soft bullets, buy speciality lubes, own/operate a lubrisizer, own double-boilers, convection ovens etc if you want decent results....my posts take issue with such assertions, and always will......so, why don't you cease and desist from trying to throw a monkey-wrench into things? I find it petty and meanspirited.

I didn't claim to invent pan lubing....it's NOT messy if the lube isn't left to goo consistancy, and sticky beeswax base will give 100% groove filling, and without tracking down a KakeKutter.
 
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There seems to be a wide streak of paranoia or resistance to trying the microwave...so, I'll add a few safety caveats.

It entered my mind when first trying the bullets that even if things didn't spark (and they didn't), there might remain an airpocket in poorly cast bullets that might cause a rupture as the bullet heated up.....this is why I mentioned using a low setting on the microwave, and keeping an eye/hand on things....plus, too hot a bullet will melt the tupperware.

Ditto the lube mix in the tupperware....nuke until liquid, and then stop....the wax/oil are self-mixing, no stirring required.....flimsy plastic might warp from heat.

Don't use the tupperware in contact with the lead for any food uses, just to be safe.

Don't stick your finger in light sockets, try to mug a uniformed cop, or call-in sick at work with the excuse of "abducted by aliens."
 
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I think the "kitchen sink" reloading information is definitely pertinent, especially in these crazy times we live in, and I found the thread to be mostly informative. (I love makeshift ways of doing things even if it takes alot more time and effort to get reasonably good results. One never knows when the commercial ways or materials/channels will dry up and what then?).

The KNOWLEDGE to do what needs to be done with minimal tools, common materials, and much ingenuity is not always commonplace, let's face it. IMHO, it is extremely important if you value your God given freedom, though, and I prefer to learn from those who have done it than to stumble along all by my lonesome. Even the rebuttals by naysayers are important to me in any thread.

I don't go for the microwave idea unless really necessary, myself. That's my decision to make. Then again, I prefer to have already done things the "open fire/cast iron pot/bellows" way at least a couple of times just to know how if need be, so knowing it can be done in a microwave is nice for the flipside of the coin, too!

All in all, I think this is a great thread. Wish there were more like it here at THR. It's WAY better than re-reading old questions in new threads that have been answered countless thousands of times because people cannot locate the search button, IMHO. :)
 
Thanks, SOS...there are surely better ways of loading BP handgun cartridges....this one's just field-expedient for those wanting to give it whirl with hope for success....personally, I recommend 20:1 plain-base bullets with deep-cornered large lube grooves for all non-manglem handgunning, but that's just me....lube batches larger than experimental are much more efficiently done with a double-boiler, with numerous cakes cast and put aside....the lube itself works about as well as any, in my experience, with BP, anyhow....the bevel-base bullets with shallow grooves would probably allow blow-by leading and run out of lube going down longer barrels....the bullet lubing via cake/pan method is suprisingly efficient and tidy, and unless as-cast diameters are too large to chamber in loaded rounds, sizing is sorta wasted to some degree....glad you found some of it of interest.

There are many successful loading/lubing-recipes/cleaning methods...this just happens to be one of them.
 
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Just sort of a microwave vs. alternate method delubing of cheap bullets update.

I was suprised small batches of the bullets that I nuked didn't spark....in fact, your bullets might spark, large batches might spark, etc etc...

Several responders to the thread suggested boiling them....I've never tried that one myself....never needed to, actually, being a caster/loader myself....but gave it a try today.

Firstly, you'll about wreck any pot you try it in....at least the red crayon hard lube on bullets I boiled will wreck a pot.

After cooling (which takes a while even to get to where you might try the fridge), it left a frothy plastic-like scum on the water, and caked on plastic-like residue on the pot....bullets are clean enough, as pouring hot lube on them will finish the job when pan lubing....but, it does work.
 
Ok lets add to this on a positive note.
Im still against the metal in a microwave. However i still welcome guys to load 45 colt. Here are a couple of well respected casters that sell unlubed and lubed bullets.

Keeds bullets
http://www.keadbullets.com/45_Colt.htm
unlubed
9.51 for 100

Buffaloarms (fantastic bullets come lubed with spg which is an excellent black powder lube)

http://www.buffaloarms.com/browse.cfm?viewfrom=13&catid=84&step=2
14.99 for 100

Now bp shooters i typically use my black powder measure. pour in 35 grains of 3f then press the bullet to meet the powder.
 
Here's my super low-tek way I've been doing for years on hundreds of .45 rounds and never a miss fire or hickup.

I use an old lee hand loader and rubber mallet. My powder flask set at 30 or 35 grains, according to how I feel that day. (I do mark the boxes according to grains), my gunstore bought lead bullets (made by the owner's friend I think. I buy 500 at a time). Then I begin taking out my aggressions and start wacking with the old mallet.

Now, sub one inch groups at 25 yards I won't get, but I can usually keep em in the black and for defence against man or beastie, I trust them 100%.

I bought and shot up some 45 schoffield and have reloaded them at 25 grains 3fg. I actually like them a little better as far as recoil and you don't need filler.
 
I did my very first handloading with a Lee .45ACP Loader...many happy hours at the cobbler's bench, banging away.....
 
hahahah i got you beat i have a whole bunch of lee loaders. The hardest worst i ever did. Will never do again was 30-06. Talk about banging with a hammer. wow
 
I don't load BP for revolver, but I do shoot a little BPCR and will comment on only such stuff as will work across the board.

It is normal if not universal to decap black powder brass at the range and drop in soapy water for the trip home.

I used to scrub out each case with a test tube brush, then dry and run in a vibratory tumbler with nuthull. They ended up clean but tarnished.
Now I clean and polish them in a rotary tumbler with wet ceramic medium. Takes a little time to rinse and dry but those suckers are CLEAN and shiny.

I clean my rifle on the range with Windex All-Surface + vinegar diluted 50:50 as recommended by Mike Venturino. Cleans the gun and I am sure I have dripped some on the blue without eating it off.

I am not at present set up to cast, so I am shooting bought bullets. I was fortunate to find an outfit that had the same mould I had been using, so I did not have to fiddle with my loads. I note that most suppliers have soft cast pistol bullets with black powder lube, no need to improvise.
 
*Note: I am not responsible if you try it.

Just to get that out of the way. I don't think that I am doing anything dangerous, but hey just in case! :)

Reloading .45 Colt for me is easy. After the first fire'n I don't resize, I just deprime (brass goes into the same revolver and I haven't had any problems with the non-resized brass yet. If you have 1 chamber larger than the others, it could become a problem though.) I use regular Large Pistol primers and load it up with 30 grs. of FFG 777. Bullets are .454 255 gr. FP. Other .45 colts use .452 for lead, but my barrel slugged out at .454 so..... (cylinder mouths too).
 
Windex All-Surface
Does not seem to contain any vinigar or amonia see this http://www.scjohnson.com/msds_us_ca/PDFs/126002008_Windex_Multi_Surface_Vinegar.PDF

with a ph of 9.5 to 10.5 at best it could only be a very mild corrosive being equal to ordinary hand soap.

me, to clean at the range I run 2 wet patches(spit usually) and 2 dry patches, 2 hour ride home and clean with hot soapy water.

the brass issue. So long ad you have plenty of water there shouldnt be a problem if it is for a short period of time. Deprime dont deprime I dont see a real diffrence other than prefrence. My method is now take dry brass home fill my sink with hot soapy water and drop brass in and agitate by hand rince and repeat rince again and let set for 5 minutes. Shake off excess water and tumble for an hour, deprime and tumble for another hour.

I did change my method after depriming and finding wet primer pockets.
 
Sorry for the misnomer. I am actually using Windex MULTI Surface Cleaner With Vinegar, Ammonia Free. Or so says the label. But with a pH of 9.5 to 10.5, there is something in it to more than neutralize the acetic acid, that is a mild basic solution.

No matter, it cleans, as do a lot of other aqueous mixes. What counts is the water. The main constituent of black powder fouling is potassium carbonate, with small amounts of potassium sulfide, and likely some unburnt powder constituents.
 
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