The 686

Ya know, I've always been a semi-auto guy. Always. Until I made the mistake of looking at a used 686 in a gun shop one day.
This 686 has quite possibly become my favorite gun. Forget about it being a near perfect revolver. It's a near perfect handgun.
The single action pull on it is amazing. It's almost as if you need only THINK about firing it. Has to be the most accurate handgun I've ever fired.
OK, I'll shut up now and make with the pictures.

Wow.

Haven't been to this thread in a while.

Nice to see it simmering so nicely
with so many virtual friends keepin' it up.
(500 posts no less. Impressive. Testament to the gun.)

I sold my 4" 686 a couple of years back.
It was just too long (barrel heavy) for my needs.
I replaced it with a 3" 65 that I really like. Balances well.

Still, I hope some day to own a 2.5 or 3" 686.

Just something about that 686 ...

The single action pull on it is amazing. It's almost as if you need only THINK about firing it.

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You know, I've actually had that exact same thought! The SA trigger is literally dangerously easy to fire. I actually had to train myself NOT to pull the trigger prematurely at the range. This 686 has to be the most smooth gun I've ever handled. I own a $900 Sig and a very well made 1911, both of which are beautiful semi-autos, but this 686 has then both beat in shere elegance and refinement. It is stout and tight, and it throws .357 magnums down range, so I'll never have to worry about being under powered. It's perfect. Well, mine has a 6" barrel, so I do wish it was easier to carry, but I'll manage =). (New Grips coming in today from Eagle Grips, I'll post pics when I get 'em on the gun!)

Ok. After seeing so many well taken pictures of CLEAN 686s in this thread, I thought I'd never be able to post pictures of mine. I hardly ever clean my guns.
So please forgive this shot of my favorite L-frame after three trips to the range.

Hmmmm methinks you need to get thee to a wally World - and spilleth $3 or so for a bottle of this fine gun elixir - Hoppes #9. It will return ye well used beastie to a more presentable state. I don't know about that front sight, however... what is it - pinned and dovetailed?

I tried to see how nasty my 625JM could get and still function, earlier this year. I got to well over 500 - pushing 600 rounds - in just over a month. It still hit within minute of SPC plates reliably, but it looked like it was growing hair on the cylinder's face. I have made two trips without cleaning, but it's a rare occurence. Admittedly, I am anal re cleaning.

Stainz

Hmmmm methinks you need to get thee to a wally World - and spilleth $3 or so for a bottle of this fine gun elixir - Hoppes #9. It will return ye well used beastie to a more presentable state.

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You're right but I'm on a secret quest to find out the "ultimate number of rounds between failure" of the S&W 686. She has 550, mixed 38/357, 5:1 ratio right now. Will report back when and if she FTF for any reason. Will be shooting all .38 from here on.

don't know about that front sight, however... what is it - pinned and dovetailed?

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Pinned only. My 686-3 is a "Silhouette" model, with adjustable 4-position front sight.

I've got a question for you noble followers of the X86:

How different is shooting the X86 versus a model 13 or 19? A 4" 6 shot X86 appears to only be about 4 ounces heavier than a model 10--how does the X86 handle and carry on the belt as opposed to the K-frames?

The reason I ask is because I'm not really looking for a heavy-duty shooter, but want something that will take a beating and keep on shooting all the same.

I'm in the market for a medium frame .357 magnum revolver. The 586 sure is looking good...

Thanks for any insights you can offer.

I've got a question for you noble followers of the X86:

How different is shooting the X86 versus a model 13 or 19? A 4" 6 shot X86 appears to only be about 4 ounces heavier than a model 10--how does the X86 handle and carry on the belt as opposed to the K-frames?

The reason I ask is because I'm not really looking for a heavy-duty shooter, but want something that will take a beating and keep on shooting all the same.

I'm in the market for a medium frame .357 magnum revolver. The 586 sure is looking good...

Thanks for any insights you can offer.

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Just my .02 I think the recoil seems a bit less from my 4" 686. Though that could just be my imagination. The full under lug seems to make follow up shots a bit faster as well.
As far as how it carries, it feels about the same as my 1911, I've never carried a K frame so I can't really compare it to anything else. It's not exactly a light weight, but it doesn't bother me to tote it around the woods all day either.

Thanks Sniper, I appreciate it

sorry please disregard. Mods please delete if you care enough.


carry on, folks, nice wheelguns.

My first firearm. S&W 686-4PP

View attachment 85333

View attachment 85334

Glad to be a member of the 686 club

Is that a 4 inch, sure looks like 6 inch to me. Must be the photo. My second firearm was a 4 inch 686P

wep45,

That is a great revolver. I have the exact same model, 686-4 6" with powerport. That revo is my wife's favorite as it is so pleasant to shoot.

snagglepuss,

They 686-4PP models are 6" barrels.

WJR

I finally joined the club after posting about it in 03-2007.

Got it at the gun show. Was $450, which was fine for me.

I will get some pics tomorrow, but I am guessing I can describe it and you'll all know.

- Stainless 4"
- Hogue monogrip (love it)
- Pinned barrel
- The chambers are NOT recessed like on my 1978 Model 28. Not sure if they're supposed to be or not.
- No lawyer lock yay!


Something about a stout 4" revolver just feels so right to me. Even compared with my brand now USP 45, I really am a revolver man at heart.

Anyways - whats the best way to make the stainless look as good as possible?

Anyways - whats the best way to make the stainless look as good as possible?

Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish (get it at WalMart)
It will clean your stainless up real nice and make it shine. It also works great for getting the black gunk off of your revolver's cylinder face.

So how exactly do you get the chrome like polish? I got the Mothers Mag and Alum, and also Billet polish, I rub it on, rub rub rub til the black residue appears, then buff off.

Done this over and over, still looks the same.

What do I need to do to get guns like Hexidesimals?

Where can you see the model number with the dash?

on mine, when I open the cylinder, stamped on the frame it says, formatted like this

"AUE 74 89
M
MOD 686"


There's no dash and nothing after the 686. Is this an M model, or a dash nothing?

I have a 686 ,4" brl, Millet Red Dot,B-Square mounts,Pachmyr grips. Not as slick as my Model 19 or my Python but it has a great trigger and lockup is very tight. Shoots any ammo very accurately. I've put 1000's of rounds thru it.

Gotta learn to post pictures. You guys have some very handsom firearms.

easyrider,

I'm very very intrested in your MRBF 686 project , especially regarding .38's in that .357Mag cylinder.

Keep us (or me?) posted, will you?

At very long last a picture of a gun that's been working !
sometimes wonder if most guns that are spoken of here are mere "lookers" instead of "shooters".

BTW : Mine is a 4" 586.

Better late than never. . . .

The SSR is my duty back-up to the Model 66 as I've not been able to find a tritium front sight that works. The 24/7 Big Dot is too tall, even with the Clylinder & Slide fixed rear.

I do like Hogue grips. All shown are Coco Bolo, mostly red-tone heartwood but the Model of 1988/625 has a more yellow tint of sapwood. I also like Hogue's "fish scale" checkering pattern.

The group snaps include the 686, 66, 1988/625, 67-0 and 617 (10-shot).

There's no dash and nothing after the 686. Is this an M model, or a dash nothing?

Sean,

You have one of the first 686's to be made a dash nothing or sometimes refered to as a 686-0 The "M" by the model number means that it has been sent back to Smith & Wesson after production and modified for cylinder binding, which was a failure comon to the 686-0 and 686-1 models. So now you are good to go. Enjoy that 686 of yours. You have a great revolver.

Don"t worry if your stainless doesn't shine like the sun, your 686 will shoot like the

You have one of the first 686's to be made a dash nothing or sometimes refered to as a 686-0 The "M" by the model number means that it has been sent back to Smith & Wesson after production and modified for cylinder binding, which was a failure comon to the 686-0 and 686-1 models. So now you are good to go. Enjoy that 686 of yours. You have a great revolver.

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Awesome. I am glad it's one of the 1980 models. It sits next to my late fathers Model 28 6" highway patrolman (pinned barrel, recessed cylinders). That's a 1978.

It's father and son 357's now. I should take a picture of them side by side for sentimental value and post it. He bought the N frame because he wanted to kill a deer with it. He said he'd hand load 357's as hot as physically possible, with powder clear to the brim of the casing, and just barley crimp that bullet on there.

Never did get a chance to down a deer with it though

I used my 686 2 1/2" for CCW qual here in TN. I shot 96/96 (fire 48 rounds). Gal next to me was shooting a 9 MM (I won't say what brand. no need for bashing) and she was all over paper and didn't qualify. After second string fired I let her use my 686 and try again. She shot 92/96 and qualified with no problem. So much for ladies and big guns! We were using .38 Spl WWB 130 gr FMJs from Wally World.

I bought this one back around '91 when they were $329, new, and I have put many rounds through it. It also wears a set of Pachmeyers from time to time.
It is my bedside guardian along with one speed loader full of 125 Federals.

This is for BAPHOMET: I have looked all over the site of the manufacturer for THOSE grips. What model name or number are those grips?
I would love to get those for my 686.
BTW, 686 was my very first gun which i carried on the job for years.