Does the brand of lower (stripped) make a big difference in an AR?

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Lucky Strike

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Is there that big a difference between stripped lowers?

Friend is looking to get one to build his first AR. Has a budget so he wants to put the bulk of the money towards what's going to give the best "returns" as far as reliability/accuracy (which i would think would be the BCG, barrel and upper reciever). Is a stripped LMT actually better then a stripped DPMS or are they pretty much the same as long as it's mil spec?
 
With the exception of Hesse and Vulcan, perhaps a couple others I am forgetting, nearly every lower is the same. Any reputable brand... DPMS, Stag, RRA, Bushy, Armalite, Doublestar, LMT, Colt, etc. will all function the same. Spend the $$$ on the upper.
 
The only big difference in most of them is the shelf area which determines whether or not you can use a RDIAS. So unless you are going to drop the $10k or so on one of those, it really doesn't matter much.
 
Dont let price fool you either some of the best ARs I have built were on Superior Lowers I hear people that say they are cheap but they are made to spec and add a takeup screw most other do not have just a bonus feature. Their finish is freat as well. I have to agree with above post spend the money on the upper thats where it will show.
 
Don't listen to these guys. Yes, it absolutely matters. Some lowers have only letters on them but the better ones come with pretty pictures too. Some have eagles, others ponies and others deer. Don't settle for plain jane lowers!
 
I LOVE my NoDak Lowers !! but I must say that I have 3 Superior Lowers, 3 CMMG , and 3 DPMS Lowers that all work just fine with what ever combination I needed them for. I like the slightly lighter color on the CMMG lowers for my M16 surplus uppers and the Darker color of the DPMS's on my more modern builds.

manygunsmike
 
nope. even the upper reciever doesn't matter much as long as it doesn't bind the carrier group. Float a good barrel (that includeds a well fitted extension) and a proper carrier group and you should be good to go.
 
and remember that "mil-spec" doesn't necessarily mean the best quality... just that it meets specifications. And in government use it's also supplied by the lowest bidder.
 
and remember that "mil-spec" doesn't necessarily mean the best quality... just that it meets specifications. And in government use it's also supplied by the lowest bidder.
Click to expand...

And it's not a 'mil-spec' lower unless it has the 3 FCG holes. BSW
 
And don't forget that Colt's are not "Mil Spec".

Don't want to do a Colt beating here, I like their stuff, but their AR lowers use nonstandard fire control group pin sizes.

Don't think you can buy Colt lowers anyway, but just in case there are used ones out there.
 
I have 6 different brands of AR's and have had a few more including some odd ball ones. They have all performed fine for me. Some have a little better finish than others but that is about it.
 
I've got an LAR and Olympic and a Cavalry Arms. The Cav is my favorite probably because the plastic lower let me build a gun weighing 5.75 pounds. It's like carrying a .22
 
As long as it is in-spec, and doesn't have Hesse, Vulcan, or Blackthorne stamped on it, it won't matter.

I wouldn't be at all suprised to see one of the ones I named actually catch on fire....


-- John
 
I went to buy some lowers & compared about 6 brands.
I walked out with the cheapest. (Essential Arms)
When buying multiples the price difference adds up.

It may make a difference to someone if you go to resell it.
 
I walked out with the cheapest. (Essential Arms)
Click to expand...
I've built on a number of Essentials, they are just fine. I would call them the "least expensive", not "cheap". Cheap often implies lower quality.
 
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