How to position S&W 642 cylinder upon closing to avoid scratch/groove on cylinder

The fact is is the cylinder stop or bolt (what you call the catch) is going to drag on the cylinder anyway when you shoot the gun. You're going to get the line on the cylinder anyway.

If you're worried about "honest work marks" on a gun you're going to shoot, then your priorities are misplaced.

My "serious" guns show a lot of "honest work marks" which I think make the guns look cooler than a fancy schmancy one that never had a bullet down the barrel.

There's nothing wrong with wanting/owning a collector gun, but if I wanted a pristine museum piece, I'd never shoot it and wear gloves when handling it.

.

I agree with David E. Besides, the 642is a defense gun--and defense guns should be shot a lot to ensure reliability and user proficiency (I'm insinuating nothing).

When closing and locking your cylinder, always turn it in the direction of normal rotation.

When I DON'T see that groove on an S&W revolver cylinder, I am pretty sure it has not been fired much -- or the cylinder has been replaced (RED FLAG). The groove gets to a certain depth, and then stops more or less forever. Another thing not to get up tight about is blackened front cylinder faces around the chambers. You can get them off, but they will be right back there next time you shoot, as if you got that cramp in your elbow removing them for nothing -- as indeed you did. And then there is the fire cut in the top strap directly above the cylinder gap. It too gets to a certain depth and then stops. And if you MUST go inside, use gunsmith driver bits to unscrew THAT screw. I haven't done it yet with my 637 (owned six years, 3,000 rounds fired) or my 686+ (three years, 2,000 rounds). I'm leaving all that for my grandsons.

Oooo worra worra worra!
Don't worra worra worra,
Jack

There is a way to avoid those drag marks on the cylinder of a new S&W revolver.

Take the gun carefully in the left hand. With the right hand, open your gun safe. Place the gun inside and close and lock the door. DO NOT ever touch the gun again and especially DO NOT fire it or dry fire it.

That will ensure there are no drag marks when your heir takes it out of the safe and shoots the heck out of it, creating drag marks.

Jim

^----Jim got it right

excepting it was test fired at the factory so a never turned is kinda rear

its a SD gun--use it and keep it operationally clean. no need to obsess

You might want to make sure the (reverse thread) extractor plunger rod is tight (not overly tight).

If it is loose, a tiny bit of Blue Loctite will help.

If you remove that rod (by carefully unscrewing clockwise), bear in mind there are two springs in there. One large spring holds the rod forward, while a tiny spring inside keeps the inner smaller rod rearward. Hold it together so it doesn't fly across the room!

Why no just remove the offending top of the bolt. Polish that sucker off a little. I've seen it done before and very little metal is removed which allows the cylinder to turn w/o getting those "nasty" drag lines. The cylinder still locks up correctely.

Wow...you should see the wear on my 642 after about 3 years of carry....

i carry a 642 in pocket every day for several years now. the finish is worn off.

if you worry about the ring and wear will bother you, you have chosen the wrong gun

I sent it back once to be refinished. S&W did it no charge, no shipping wither way. they replaced the trigger with a good one and a trigger job, which I paid for. it is very smooth, good gun...but it shows wear from carry.

Action job ? Hell, I wanna know how he wore off the "stainless finish" from his 642 !

I just picked up my brand-new from-the-factory S&W 625JM last night. It already has the drag line. The cylinder face is blackened from the test-firing at the factory (I assume!). I don't mind at all.

When I got my first revolver, I was concerned about it. Then I realized that they all do it, and it's because of steel on steel.

-Jephthai-

ghh3rd

I had my new 642 trigger and action "enhanced" by S&W when they had my new revolver in for warranty work.

It made a big difference, the trigger is real smooth-pulling all the way through until firing and is identical for each of the five cylinders. Also, when the hammer falls, the trigger is all the way rearward (no over-travel).

It was $75 for what they called "Trigger & Action Enhancement."

I ended up with a spring or two and what appears to be a sear in a small envelope when I got the gun back.

The trigger is much smoother to pull and is a bit easier to pull. When I pull it real slowly, I can still feel the first and second "notches" where the action is working, however it is a lot less of a feel than it was before the trigger/action enhancement.

David E: Hell, I wanna know how he wore off the "stainless finish" from his 642 !

J-frame S&Ws like the 642 Airweight are not all stainless. The frame is an aluminum alloy, which makes it quite a bit lighter than all stainless steel. The Airlite version has other exotics in the frame to make it even lighter. What wears off quickly when they are carried is a plastic overcoat. S&W will replace it free of charge, including shipping both ways.

Cordially, Jack

I don't know about Smith, but the manual that came with both of my Rugers says to avoid harming the cylinder, you should line up the flutes on both sides with the top strap. It still gets the drag mark, and I know Ruger expects this to happen...so maybe this just lessens it. I have no idea what effect it really has, I just always do it out of habbit...

Why no just remove the offending top of the bolt. Polish that sucker off a little. I've seen it done before and very little metal is removed which allows the cylinder to turn w/o getting those "nasty" drag lines. The cylinder still locks up correctely

You have to be kidding. How much do you take off. While your gun may work for a while you still are screwing with something that involves proper lockup for your cylinder. What you relate may be something a skilled revolversmith can do but I've never heard any i know mention it. All my revolvers have a drag line from the bolt of some degree.

Griz, I think he is refering to just breaking the sharp edge on the left top of the bolt,or I hope so. That can help a lot to reduce bolt wear marks.